Tatarusbrute
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Posts posted by Tatarusbrute
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Been searching forum for a basic guide to doing a 5 lug swap for a EA car. Aka, What parts do I need and is their any fabrication involved. Am I missing it somewhere? or is there not one on USMB?
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I just swapped a 97 2.2 into a 98 outback 2.5. First time doing this, had a few snags but it runs great. My question regards mil light aka check engine light. So far I don't have one. Used the 2.5 Maf and ecu. Who has gotten mil's? And did they come on immediately? From my knowledge of computer controls an eye or Maf code would come on once the computer goes through it's basic checks.
Am I free and clear?
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94 Loyale, 117K miles. Got it at 103k less than a year ago. Drive it 400 miles a week or more, and get about 27 mixed.
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What everyone else said. Also, If you wait like 15 seconds between pushes when you are bleeding brakes, it decreases the turbulence in the line, and allows the bubbles to reform into bigger ones.
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Hey Idasho, Are you in Moscow? I feel like I have seen your rig around town... At MBS, and I was jealous at how clean it is.
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Ya, Spalding is decent. And I agree some stuff is overpriced. But I find him to be pretty fair on most things... Forest in Lewiston is Very pricey though.
P and R is Everett's brother Actually. But I blasted them myself.
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He does have quite the stash.
Unfortunately he is much too expensive. NOTHING there is cheap.
Last fall he had 5 EA81 rigs in there. 2 wagons, 2 hatches, and one sedan.
All of them in remarkable shape (body, glass, lenses)
I asked him about them, he said he was going to hang onto them to part them out.
I checked a few weeks ago, and they have all been sent to the crusher.
I actually work part time for Everett. He is the cheapest scrap yard in the area in my opinion. He still has I think 4 or 5 gl/loyale wagons and sedans out in the yard, mainly ea82 stuff though.
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Here they are finished and on the car with some 205/60/13 tires.
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Ya,
I got aluminum Polish, and I have alot of work ahead of me. I am going to polish all the main-layer, and the sub layer I am painting Black.
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Hey im near moscow, wheres this scrapyard??
You know Everett Paul's Scrap Yard? He has several sets of the white spoke, and the black spoke 4x140 Wheels.
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Ok so does this picture work.
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Hey,
My Posting Box is not allowing me to attach the picture. So I will have to figure out what is wrong with it.
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They Could be just a Peugeot Aftermarket rim. I Actually am from Moscow Idaho... funny. SO No one person has ever seen these before on a Subaru? or Peugeot.
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Hey, I was recently looking through my local Scrap yard and came across a full set of these Aluminum Rims with a 4x140 Bolt pattern that I have never seen. Has anyone ever seen or heard of them? they are made in England by a company called KN Engineering. Here is hopefully a picture of one. I am Gonna bead blast them today, and maybe get them Powder Coated. I also found a nice set of 185/80/r13 to go on these rims, they are an old tire size, and they have a pretty aggressive tread.
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MPFI Will give you better power (Like maybe 7-10 Horse) and maybe better gas mileage, it disperses the fuel in a more efficient way.
On SPFI the fuel enters at the throttle plate, and has to go all the way through the intake runners, so when the engine is cold and even warm, some fuel will stick the the walls. (that is why performance engines often have port/polished intakes, less to stick to). With MPFI you are injecting the fuel directly before the chamber and you get more bang for your buck.
Swapping turbo MPFI heads will not help you. Turbo Head compression ratio was 7.7:1, and the stock SPFI was 8.7:1. Basically when you have forced induction you dont need a high compression ratio, because the turbo more tan makes up for it. But you could probably look for MPFI heads off of an old 80's Subaru XT which was an EA82 engine non turbo with a MPFI system. You will not lose the compression ratio that you will with turbo heads.
5 lug swap?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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sweet thanks.