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Thanks, everybody, all great advice. My car repair friend did manage to fine a 22mm socket, so that's great. He's resuming work on it in a few days.

Thanks, you're obviously right. Hey, should I take the tensioner into town when I go tomorrow and ask an auto parts person if it should be replaced? Is there a way to tell by looking at it? Mary

now the cr.shaft pully bolt won't come off While taking things apart in order to get at the broken bolt holing the tensioner on we got stuck because the cranshaft pully bolt won't come off. There must be some creative solution - we don't have a 21mm socket and don't have an impact wrench. We have tried open-ended wrenches, pipe wrenches, and even found a lug wrench that fit, but even with the radiator off there's just no room for turn or torque. None of the wrenches we have will fit down in there so that the tool is able to slide over the nut. Is THIS something I should consider drilling out too? My friend thinks not, but we're many many miles from stores and if there's some oddball way to make it work I would love to hear of one. Thanks in advance, Mary

There must be some creative solution - we don't have a 21mm socket and don't have an impact wrench. We have tried open-ended wrenches, pipe wrenches, and even found a lug wrench that fit, but even with the radiator off there's just no room for turn or torque. None of the wrenches we have will fit down in there so that the tool is able to slide over the nut. Is THIS something I should consider drilling out too? My friend thinks not, but we're many many miles from stores and if there's some oddball way to make it work I would love to hear of one. Thanks in advance, Mary

Oh, thank you thank you SO much. It's a bit recessed. I wondered why we weren't removing the radiator in the first place, cuz it sure does seem to be in the way. I am happy for the information you gave. I'll be very careful with the drilling. Thanks again. Mary

I have a guy over working on my '87 GL. We thought that it needed a driver's side belt. He just found that the bolt holding the tensioner on had broken. We wonder if maybe that's why the belt had a problem in the first place (the belt's not broken, but is worn). He's not a Suburu expert and is reluctant to continue. When I asked him if the end of the bolt could be drilled out he said that he's worried that it might strip the thread or that the bolt end might fall into the block. It's a big deal that after many months I finally found someone to come up here and work on my car, but I don't want to proceed if it's dangerous to do so. We decided to ask you experts about this. My options are to find a way to proceed or leave the car sitting for an indefinite period of time. I really need the car but my remote location and finances prohibit me from calling a master mechanic in to do the job. Should we proceed? If so, how can we do that safely? Any help greatly appreciated. Mary

Yes, whoopee, it sure is! Thanks, Dave. Mary

Hi, All, I was last here in November when my '87 timing belt broke. At that time I got lots of wonderful help from you folks, including a link that showed great photos of an engine like mine getting a belt replaced. I saved the link in a folder on my computer but now find that the link isn't good any longer. I finally have someone coming up to replace the belt tomorrow, but since he's not a Sub. guy I want to be able to provide him with anything helpful so I am eager to find that photo set again. Any ideas? Mary

Well, I'm delighted that no one shrieked when I said I was going to take i on myself. That gives me great hope. Mary

Ok, thanks again to all of you. After reading more of what you wrote I was able to figure out my problem. I removed the "oval" on the passenger's side first, and couldn't feel any belt, but since there was so little space for my hand between the cover and the fan I wasn't sure if I didn't just feel around incorrectly. So I put the oval back on then took off the one on the driver's side. This time I definitely felt the belt and it was not at all taut. I pulled on it just a little, thinking that if it was broken it might pull out, but it didn't seem to budge so I figured it was best to leave it alone. Before posting I decided to do some searching on this site. The first bunch of stuff I read had me horrified - it sounded like a very expensive proposition and definitely for professionals only. Then I read Miles Fox's instructions for replacing the belt and now it actually seems like something reasonable for me to take on myself. I don't kid myself that it will be easy - just doing what I've done so far made me totally understand why mechanics cuss all the time (like how do you guys with big man hands feel around for the belt behind the fan? and I got out a 10mm but after I found what contortions would be needed to remove those cover bolts I felt sure that if got the thing off I'd have a heck of a time getting it back on, and it didn't seem worth it just to check something), but it seems like the right thing to do to try it myself. I'm really not sure just how many things I intend to replace, though, and from some things I read it's almost a given that when replacing that belt that you also replace tons of other things. We'll see, I only just now found out what was wrong and I need to think about it. I really can't tell all of you how much I appreciate your patience with me. It's obvious that you took a great deal of time and care to help me with this. Thanks again. Mary

\ Wow, I'm totally excited after reading this - I actually know where the green things are, where the fuses are (and just bought some last month!) and even where the fuel pump is. I also have one of those tester things but need to look for it. I'm writing first before I go look just in case you see this and can describe what it sounds like where it's running on two cylinders. There is one other thing - when the key is in the on position I do hear a sound (without the green guys hooked together) that's kind of like a hum, in case that means anything. Thanks a whole lot for all these suggestions. I'll get right on it. Mary

shoot, I don't know why it didn't appear attached. By the way, I love your name! Mary

When it broke down I was travelling very slowly in 2nd gear, in low 4WD, maybe 7 mph. There was a slower car in front of me so I had to brake slightly. It died when I took my foot off the gas. I just went down and tried to start it again and it tries but just won't turn over. I did get it started numerous times yesterday by spraying ether in near the carb, but each time no matter what I did to the accellerator it seemed not to have any effect whatsoever, it would run a bit, I presume just long enough to burn up the starting fluid, then would die again. I am out of fluid and in a remote location, so I won't be using more of that for now. I finally got a great picture of the parts in question but so far haven't been able to get them in a reply. I'll try once more before submitting this. Thank you very much for taking the time and guiding me with your questions. Oh, I found out that I almost certainly have an EA82 engine. It's definitely not a turbo, in case I need to add that. In case the image does show in this reply, I propped the white unattached connection so it was visible, but it was down under the green connector. The two pieces I have shown off to the right are flexible rubber and were sitting on top of the white connector. Mary

Thank you very much! Mary