rdp2n

I have just spent a month's worth of spare time replacing the headgaskets and timing belt on my sister-in-law's 2008 Subaru Outback (95K). Along the way I replaced spark plugs, wires, all timing gear bearings (and both front axles & brakes for good measure). I took my time, was careful, and was confident that the timing gear was installed properly. Today, I recharged the battery, and reconnected everything, put in 4 quarts of penzzoil 5/30, over a gallon of subaru coolant diluted 1:1 I turned the key and the car started first time. Sounded fine at first. However, the check engine (CE) light was on and the engine speed went up and down gently -- seemed to be "hunting". Then I went to the front of the car and as the engine warmed up (<2 minutes) smoke emanated from the driver's side exhaust area. Turned the engine off. Looked underneath and could see nothing untoward. Restarted the engine after 30 minutes and repeat performance ensued. Put in a bit more coolant along the way. At no time did the engine warm up properly. Attempted to restart after another 30 minutes -- but this time, the engine coughed and died at startup. Now I have a no-start situation. CE light on throughout. (Maybe I missed a sensor connection (?) -- or something silly -- but I was slow and careful -- don't see where ...) I just accessed the DTC codes -- and I get a code of "P0198" with a description of "Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction High" (would this be referring to engine oil or transmission oil?) Can anyone suggest how I should proceed from here? Thanks, Rob

Just to complete this thread -- yesterday I replaced main and rear seals on the trans, and the circlip and the seal ring on the shaft that slots into the torque converter. All 4 items ordered from World Impex. My son & I installed the trans today. Our "experience" / "expertise" (never having done this before) is as follows. To give ourselves room to maneuver, we unhooked / removed the cable sockets and breather hoses from the top of the trans (and the dipstick tube, too). We set it on a 1/2 inch board (to try to keep it level) on a $90 trans jack from Harbor Freight. Got it under the car (which is on jackstands set as high as we dared) and jacked it up into the trans well always making sure it did not become wedged at any point. The trans front (bell housing) must be tilted/tipped upwards for installation. In order to get the bell housing up to rest on the subframe (our "stage 2"), we found it helpful to apply a floor jack (with 2x4 shim) to the front differential on the trans. (So to achieve the required tilting we employed 2 jacks with the trans sitting sufficiently far forward on the trans jack to allow access to the front differential by the floor jack). Then, in this tilted orientation we jiggled the trans forward onto the subframe lip, then further onto the subframe proper (our "stage 3"). At each stage the trans jack was raised slightly at the rear, being careful to ensure the trans did not become wedged as was free to jiggle slightly. The most challenging bit was getting the 2 protruding bolts docked into the bolt holes on each lower bell housing. For this, we found that the board between the trans jack and the trans helped to keep the thing level from side to side as we jacked it up gradually at front, then at rear, then at front, then at rear. One further bit of "experience". It's a good idea to examine carefully the engine and trans mating edges before starting. We didn't do this and found metal dowels opposite each other protruding on both engine and trans. We had to lower the trans to drive these out of the trans. The job was quite tricky and took several tries and 2 weekends to get done. Thanks for all the excellent advice and help from this forum, Rob

After reviewing johnceggleston's remarks -- I think I may owe Caboobaroo an apology -- he had it right all along -- I believe it is indeed part number I need -- 31361AA000 (just under $10 from World Impex). I've ordered it and I'll post back if that isn't correct (so that this thread will make at least some sense to the next guy wallowing in confusion over this). Thanks all -- And those links to the timing belt work will come in VERY handy -- next thing on my list ... Rob

No, that's the main seal -- #15 on that diagram. I need the tiny split run seal on the oil pump shaft, #10 on that diagram ...

I can't see that this part is individually identified with it's number at opposedforces.com/parts. There is a listing for the contents of an entire gasket set for the trans -- it's probably listed there, but not unambiguously. I'd rather not order the entire set just for this one single item ...

The (split) ring seal I need to identify (so I can re-order it) is pictured as #10 in the the 1995 Subaru Legacy AWD PDF -- "Section 3-2 1. Torque Converter Clutch and Case" (cut/paste link below to download the PDF). I can't identify it on opposedforces.com/parts. Any chance anyone knows how I can get the id number? I have called 2 Subaru dealers and they can't help me. Thanks, Rob http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&sqi=2&ved=0CIwBEBYwCA&url=ftp%3A%2F%2Fftp.caravan.kz%2FPub%2FAuto%2FSUBARU%2FLegacy%2F1995%2FService%2520Manual%2FTRANSMISSION%2520AND%2520DIFFERENTIAL%2520SECTION%2FAUTOMATIC%2520TRANSMISSION%2520AND%2520DIFFERENTIAL%2FMSA5TCD95L5573.pdf&ei=vaOBT9vkA6rg0QHn6_zqBw&usg=AFQjCNFsaqoMwb6qTSF3cYbTCYQs1WLICw&sig2=Y4k3ejDQ2pyShSKwjCxDfg

I can't imagine tranny shops in this area having time to help someone for next to nothing. Can't blame them, either. So consider me stuck. I'd be delighted to order from you -- I need at least: 1 -- Rear seal (806735210) 2 -- Front Main Seal (31361AA000) 3 --Circlip (805343020) (mine looks a bit bent) 4 --SPLIT Ring Seal (graphite-like material) that goes on the end of the oil pump shaft (that goes inside the trans) -- as pointed out by grossgary, it's #10 in the diagram in this archived thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=80574 I carefully removed and replaced the input shaft. I thought the seals on that looked good -- but what do I know? And I haven't seen anything that looks like a bushing (?). If you think I should replace any other seals as a matter of course, please let me know. I'm grateful for experienced advice -- Thanks, Rob

Thanks for the input. Now I need some precise part number information, please. I have called 2 Subaru dealerships and they can't figure out the part number for the SPLIT Ring Seal (graphite-like material) that goes on the end of the oil pump shaft (that goes inside the trans) -- as pointed out by grossgary, it's #10 in the diagram in this archived thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=80574 This little blighter has been mentioned multiple times on this forum -- BUT WHAT's the PART NUMBER? I just spent an excruciating half an hour on the phone with (infamous) Browns Subaru -- they guy thought he id'd it -- than tried to charge me $79-34. Er ... No Thanks, Mr. Brown.

Thanks, grossgary Very helpful -- Rob

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_42/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/ Question 1: The tranny (100K old) is sitting next to the car (173K car). Should I replace that main seal (#1 in link above) as a matter of course on the tranny before I install it into the car? My current view is that I'm inclined to. It looks OK -- but if it's a simple job, why not? Question 2: In order to seat the torque converter I removed the pump shaft (#5 in link above) and ensured that it was connected to the TC drum shaft via the circlip (#4 in link above). Trouble was, when I removed the pump shaft, the thin seal on the end fell off -- it was split. Should it be split or is it damaged? I'd like to order a replacement but can't locate the part number. If I'm making sense to anyone out there and they can advise, please go ahead -- Thanks, Rob

I have an automatic 95 Legacy with 1st->2nd gear shift problems. The auto trans code is: TZ102ZAAAA. Replacement auto trans seems to be in order. I have the opportunity to acquire a decent used automatic transmission from a 1995 Impreza. Will this be a "seamless" replacement for the 95 Legacy? Thanks, Rob