whiterabbit

92 legacy non turbo, weird horn problem? Horn only works when steering wheel is turned all the way left or right, what? Checked the wiring and the horn button seems fine, any ideas?

The 2rta-1 by valiant is a cost effective way to access your doors. Key less is what its all about, the reason I installed was so I didn't have to unlock the passenger side door to access the drivers door, a real pain after awhile. I used an actuator the actuator 524N High Power Door Lock Motor 10 lbs of pull in both directions. First the 2rta-1, comes with a 10 pin harness I believe, if I remember correctly, that really does not matter for what I used it for, just door lock, unlock capabilities.From the module ( the 10 wire harness-transmitter w/ antenna) all I need to use is red for constants + 12 volt red and black - for ground, that is all out of the 10 wires!! The module will hook up to relay with a pre-harnessed three prong, blue-green-red harness,this must be connected. Now from the relay you will hook up the blue wire to the blue wire of the actuator. the green wire to green wire, simple as it reads. the violet or purple wire to constant 12+ volt. The brown and white wire to ground. Your done, should work fine. As far as configuring the wiring and placement of components, there is a large cavity in the door panel to fit all of these. Thinking of youtubing to show, not alot of time but will try!! Hope this helps somebody!!!!

Just want to thank Davebugs and Porcupine73 for all they're help and response to my questions, really thanks a great help. Like I said the motor was wheeling like a blender, no compression, I had the belts lined up right, maybee the first time but the valve had been stuck open,..so comes the marvel mystery oil,.. small squirt in left two cylinders passenger side got motor puffing again,.. changed oil after 20 miles with fresh oil and lucas oil additive,.. thing purrs so quiet I almost restarted after stopping at a 7-eleven for a six pack. Now almoist 500 miles later I think I'm good. Next stop, keyless, made my seatbelt stop working drivers side, my bad, need diagnosis from an expert as what I screwed up. Anyways, success at timing belt!! How hard can a seatbelt be??lol, yikes, I know, alot! Again thanks guys!

Found solution to wireless for 2rta-1, need actuator and need to wire different, will post results soon as I figure out seatbelt mayheim I now caused.

After working on my 1992 legacy sedan for a keyless entry I found my seatbelt just on driver side door will not operate, checked all fuses and unplugged and replugged controller unit in trunk, took off neg cable, light just flashes on dash. Thinking I blew a fuse but found none,any ideas?

sorry, it's a 1992 legacy 2.2 non turbo auto.

Hey fellas, well my driver door key will not work anymore as I read very common, so I decided the best approach is to install keyless. 2rta-1 from valiant, icdynamics. I e-mailed them my problem and their response was I need door actuators, thing is They're all ready installed. My Haynes manual shows 1 in each door. The door uses negative ground and so what I have is three wires coming from door switch,.. 2 which read 0 on meter and 1,.. which reads 5ish volts? Now from what I assume is the actuator, 5 wires which are reading 12 volts on lock and 12 on unlock , this is where it gets confusing. I first used the positive wiring and could hear the locks start to move but blew fuse, discovered I needed to do negative wiring so I rewired and thought I was doing things right, the modules click like I assume they would but no movement in locks. Am I missing something simple? Any insight from the experts or experienced?

i will keep posted on my mileage after the fact for sure. hope this help people that were in my position, I think I read one thread where it sounded eerily familiar. He was at witts end!

Solid advice! Yes I feel like I have to tread on ice even though its running better than ever. I think a mixture of drugs (oils, additives) may keep the patient alive!!! Crazy, seconds from the junkyard, just kidding, I would have gone in to surgery but not very well versed. Happy for now, really thanks for all the advice,

OK I Knew I had the belt lined up, but I also seen the sequence of idlers and how they are put on. So I took my sweet time and put the idler gear then the lower idler last. Turn the motor with the harmonic balancer bolt by hand a few rotations. Now what happened next was it turned over and fired up for a few seconds, hmmmm. Then it went back to the whirling no compression sound. Dammm. Well, I was convinced that a valve was stuck open. Next, I went to this sight to see what stuck valves remedies there were! Well, nothing simple, I searched marvel mystery oil and still no hits with recommendation so I just went for the mmo and I proceeded to put a half ounce in cylinder 1 and 3 and half of what was left in the gas tank the other half in the oil.Bammm fired up, smoking like the fourth of july. Make a long story short, mmo made the valve loosen up and now purrrrrs like a kitten. I put the belt off and on several times, live and learn...................................Thanks guys for all your help and concern, really, I felt like I had support and that really helps. Again thanks!!!!!

The3, No noise, was idling waiting for the intercoastal bridge to come down. Ran great up until then.

Yes drivers side has freeplay, was just that the freeplay on passenger side was at the timing marks and drivers side not, thinking I just need to go in again and reinstall using a different set of sequence on the idlers to get it staying on marks,I think I may have been 1 gear off. Try on Sunday I'll be sure and let you know how it goes and what I did, Thanks for the help.

Now I'm questioning myself on that I'm going out to check it right now.

actually they both turn with the same tension and resistance just no play on drivers side, can move passenger a little with my hand, drivers side I need wrench. No strange sounds at all.

The cam sprocket, passenger side moves a little different than drivers side, Drivers side stays stiff and springy all 360 rotation. Passenger side has a little 4 inch play at top at lined up marks, is that normal?

porcupine73, I'm now thinking maybe, just maybe if I change the sequence of reins.talling the idlers I may get a tighter more accurate, my way was kinda hard and thought that it jumped a tooth, will try. I use little wood clamps, the kind you squezze to compress, small and handy, I like the clothes pins though.

I notice in the picture you have the tensioner in and the gear idler and lower idler out, maybe thats the way I should go, gear idler next then lower idler last, may keep it right?

Yes this is how I have it. It's a Subaru belt, pre-marked belt. Took off tensioner and lower idler, aligned belt on camshaft at marks on belt with marks on sprocket lining up with back cover notch. crank is using notch lining up with notch on bolt, oil pump?re-installed tensioner then lower idler, pulled pin out of adjuster and turned by crank bolt and breaker bar A full completion. WON'T FIRE-UP, YIKES!

Yes, I replaced all idlers and tensioner and aligned properly or so I think, a half a dozen times, I think I can do it in the dark! For the life of me I can't get it right. Does the cam sprockets have to be turned all the way around 360 to the marks at 12 again on the covers on intake?

1992 subaru legacy 2.2 sohc, timing belt broke while idling. 130k, second belt. Belt was missing teeth from a 6 inch section. Tried a half a dozen times to install properly. The engine obviously has been turned over without the belt. Lined camshafts at 12 at cover marks and crank at mark on bolt. Motor ran perfect before belt broke, hummed, now it sounds like it spins faster turning over and sounds different as well, checked compression on #1 and less than 30lbs pressure? I know somehow I'm missing something? There's plenty of gas, battery fully charged, week spark. It's not in correct time but all lines are correct. What did I forget to do?