Robert Harik
-
Posts
55 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Robert Harik
-
-
Thats a huge amount of glass beads in the pan. That could easily have clogged the filter. Only the poster knows where and how far the beads got. It will be obvious. It doesnt really matter, leaving that many beads in the engine will destroy it in short order, whatever the method. This isnt a "maybe",
'well it could" ... its a major screw up by whoever did the head. The OP has not given very much info though .
-
What/why are you trying to figure this out?
Bottom line ,if you have substantial amounts of blasting media in your engine( if you can see it, you do) , its toast.
No its not normal and no its not OK for the shop who did the machine work to have left it in there.
Yes it could easily clog the oiling system. If the filter clogged, the filter bypass would open and unfiltered oil would go through the engine.
Complain to the shop.
This brings up another point , even though its the shops responsibility legally and ethically to do the job according to certain standards , its your responsibility to make sure( if you are the engine builder) that all the parts are clean( and sized right for that matter), before putting the engine together( the buck stops with you).
This does not let the shop off( financially) in any way though, unless they gave you the heads unassembled and told they need to be cleaned before assembly( which would be very unusual).
If you want proof for court, take the engine to another or a few other machine shops and have them write on their letter heads/ receipts what they see and what likely caused it. This , along with receipts from the shop who did the work and pictures will be good proof for court. Contact the shop with your complaint by email if you can, so you have a record of what was said back and forth. Don't mention law suit.
-
-
Unplug you TPS ( throttle position sensor) and see if the problem goes away, if it does check the TPS.
-
Getting hot is the deal breaker. Have i ever seen a subaru loose a wheel because of a bad bearing ,no . Have i seen it in dozens of other cars, yes.
-
Is there a diagram that shows where all the vacuum line are located? Anyone got a chilton or haynes repair guide
If you don't have an under the hood sticker /diagram for the vacuum routing, you can find factory service manuals free on line.
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/
You will have to sift through to find what you want ( hopefully there is a vacuum diagram there someplace).
Check you IAC valve also.
-
The clutch can make a huge stinky cloud if allowed to slip to much. The smell is unmistakable ( smells kinda like burning wiring and mattress mixed together). Could be your hill holder was locked on and your clutch slipped and smoked some. Check if you have a HH and if you do, make sure it adjusted right. Did you use Subaru clutch parts?
-
Yeh, loosing a wheel on the freeway would cause a lot more damage.
-
First look up the codes. Since the drivability problems started after the work ,I would check that first( and any wires or vacuum hoses that could have been knocked loose /broken). Check that the timing belt installation. First look carefully for loose or broken vacuum lines though.
-
Are the problems new since the repairs? Its OBDI have you looked up any codes.
-
I use to grind cranks many moons ago ,and sometimes on very expensive cranks (tractors) customers would have journals welded back up to try and save the crank. But it seemed more often than not it would warp the crank so badly that it was not usable( or there would be to many inclusions in the weld).
Is this a common / reliable method now?
Did some reading online , and apparently if done right , it works well.
-
Rod bearings were disintegrated. Wondering if the crank/rods are even salvageable at this point?
I'm going to split my other block soon, but it felt just as crunchy
NOT HAPPY.
I doubt that the one rod journal can even be ground out. I bet the damage is over .050 deep.
-
Could be a lot things , since work was just done and it didn't do it before, I would check easy stuff first. Vacuum leaks( loose/ off/ cracked hoses) did you replace your injector o-rings? ,valve clearances, compression. Move injectors around. What cylinders are misfiring( codes)?
-
You can really damage a business just by posting complaints ( anywhere) on the internet. So know what you are talking about( do research) before posting.
If I am going to do business ANYWHERE, I always look up complaints on the internet first. If I don't like what I see( like what was said above, you have to sift through the garbage) I will go somewhere else. This has saved me a lot of trouble and money. Complaining online is a very power tool and you need to make sure you are fair and truthful.
-
yes and no. Check relevant places for feedback online like he mentioned, the bbb is also generally available.
Reporting is helpful to gauge some things.
It's also a place for overtly meticulous, ocd, obsessive, untrained, uninformed, unknowledgeable, or high maintenance people to vent and unleash their frustration, so it's not without hang ups.
There are plenty of bad mechanics - but there are far more bad customers.
haha lmao
-
Can't think of anything but valve or ignition timing.
-
Did nobody see this? If the coolant is brownish then it either had the orange antifreeze added to it or something is leaking into it.
Could be from rust or coolant conditioner too.
-
I have had the P0325 code on my Subie for some time. It's a 1997 Outback Legacy 2.5L. Anyway, this weekend I did some reading and read that relocating the sensor can stop this problem. I relocated it to the position they mentioned, I still have the problem. Do I need to buy a new sensor or is there anyway to just bypass the knock sensory entirely?
Not only does the ECM retard your timing when it senses an actual knock , but if the ECM does not see the regular "noise"(normal engine operation) from the sensor, it will pull your timing to the max value. So you can't just remove it or even move it to another spot. Moving it may either give you no knock protection( because it won't pick knock up) or the ECM may pull timing because it doesn't the hear normal background noise.
-
Wow thanks for all the replies guys, really appreciated.
Feel like GD and FairTax pretty much r sayin I'm a dumb#%$
Sure wish Shawn or GD or someone as knowledgeable could come do that quick fix with me.. If I have to get to the oil pump I might as well do the timing belt and idlers If timing then water pump, crank seal on and on and on 300000 300000 300000
Thanks for being supportive Robert, but they're right... sigh:)
And HOWDY TODD! I can't bear the thought of owning another interference engine but I wish you luck with your new OB.
Tell me if you guys think this is a better plan:
Just found an add on craigslist for 2 91s both running engines 1 has interior parts missing no title. $1300 I could buy both of those, steal the engine from the parts car for my current car, and give the worst of the 2 runners to my son.
I can keep the parts I have for the heads until needed by a younger engine.
I don't have access to $500 engines here. I was quoted $3500 for a motor not even rebuilt, very high demand here. Junkyards were at $850 for questionable motors.
GD you in Portland? I could come get one from there but I'd still be paying nearly $100 in gas before I got it home.
I think I will try to find a sweet deal like the one I mentioned and save the heads for that.
Or sell them...
But thanks guys for convincing me that the 300,000 mile engine isn't worth rebuilding...
Anyone know of a sweet 92 legy in central oregon that needs a set of heads?
OOO OOO OR TRADE?
I still have my 83 GL.......... runs good, bad halfshafts....blah blah ...spare motor and parts
Would trade for a strong motor in a heartbeat, any takers?
Look , there is nothing wrong with rebuilding a an engine with 300,000 miles. I have taken apart engines with less than 50,000 miles that were trashed and ones with well over 400,000 that were rebuildable. You take it apart ,measure and if the parts aren't to spec you either replace or repair them , thats it.
Go to the NASIOC forum ( the built engine section) for better help.
-
Do what you can afford. It sounds like you want to learn to work on/ rebuild the engine, this is as good a starting place as any.
-
My point is, there's nothing wrong with the heads that are on it. Lifters are ticking and they won't stop, a different oil can help that. Still won't stop, it takes ten minutes to remove the rocker shaft assembly and replace the problem, worn out lifters.
The oil pump is another story, and low oil pressure could be an issue here. That can be easily checked with a pressure gauge, or the oil pump can easily be removed and serviced.
still not as difficult or in depth or expensive as replacing the heads.
You don't get any more reliability out of an engine by replacing just the heads because it ticks. If you're dead set on rebuilding, go ahead and do the rebuild, and do it right. New bearings all around, have the crank polished, and get the block overbored and honed with new pistons and rings to fit it. New oil pump, new lifters, put it all back together with new O-rings and seals and you have an engine that is fully capable of another 300k + miles, outliving the rest of the car by a long shot. Before you do all that, ask yourself how much longer do you really want to keep and maintain this car? How long is the transmission going to last before it needs rebuild/replacement? How long before the frame rusts out? Next year? 5 years?
All good points , that would be ideal.
-
you are going to want to buy a subaru gasket.
Not necessarily, there are some good aftermarket ones like the six star. Read all the threads and get as much info as you can, and then you can make an informed decision your self.
-
I think what he is after is a reliable daily driver and with close to 300,000...
300,000 is about the usefull life for any gas engine (without previous major work done).
He already has the heads and work done.
Why is that so hard to understand?
-
If its your daily driver and if you have not rebuilt an engine before ,you might want to by a used engine and rebuild it as you have time and money and not touch your short block( use it as is)You said you had decent power( probably decent compression) and your not burning a lot of oil ? More the a quart every 1000 miles.If you don't have a oil pressure gauge install one ,it will tell you a lot about the condition of your bottom end. Your a machinist so in your job you have to pay attention to detail, so with the proper tools and a Factory service manual for your year ( you can find free downloads) you would probably be fine. Don't use anything but the factory service manual( you can use the other manuals for extra tips) for your main source of info. One thing ,if the head bolts are torque to yield type DONT reuse them , I don't care what the manual says( even the factory manual), use new OEM ones( if they are not TTY ,if they are in spec then reuse them).
:banana:
Help me diagnose a tranny problem?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Will it shift into second with the engine off?