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I found the Pins to be the hard part. The linkage wasn't bad. Again, PB blaster applied liberally starting a few nights before helps. I got mine off with a ball joint puller and a ball peen hammer. If you pull the transmission down, you could certainly get an air hammer in there i'd expect.

Hey gang, Just want to be super confident before I make the investment. I'm refurbishing my new '96 Legacy OUtback Wagon, 2.2L. ~200k miles. Runs great! Fixed up exuaust, brakes shifter linkage, etc etc. I need struts in front and back. I'd like to start with the back simply because it's cheaper. I also want to get an alignment after I do the front, and I don't have the cash for that right now. Can I get away with $95/pair "APX" struts on ebay? I don't do any offroading. Just looking for good cheap struts for city and highway driving. Again, bonus for cheap-but I don't want to get total crap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1230-RS-Subaru-SHOCKS-STRUTS-Rear-Set-2-Pcs-NEW-Warranty-/320833393884?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1996%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALegacy%7CSubmodel%3AOutback&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab32914dc#vi-ilComp $95/pair seems cheap, when they go for nearly $100 each from both Subaru and auto parts stores. Thanks in advance I appreciate it. I know this has been discussed, but I'm just looking for first hand accounts so I can be confident before plunking down the cash. ~p

Just wanted to give an update on my shifter. The TL/DR version of below is simply "I was sold the wrong linkage, tore mine apart and replaced the all of the bushings, and re-assembled the whole shooting match with nuts and bolts instead of the factory spring pins and rivet". This post details my struggle, and lists all Subaru part numbers as well as some photos. I simply wanted to share my struggles and hopefully save somebody a little pain, and the $60 of purchasing the incorrect linkage. Here's my linkage on top, and the new one on the bottom. Ugh. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/right%20vs%20wrong.jpg I didn't make a full "walkthrough" as an excellent one by "doc526" exists here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113480&highlight=shifter+bushings Learn it live it love it. Make SURE you have a 10" socket extension and the proper punches BEFORE you begin. ======= Yes, it was a *************** to get this job done. **If your linkage has a "neutral return spring" mount hole like mine, your replacement linkage part number is 35047AC010. If I had a bottle jack/transmission stand/similar (and a 14mm deep socket…) I ABSOLUTELY would dropped/moved the transmission. Dropping the tranny will give you a straight shot at the spring pins. That's the only hard part about this stupid job. Borrowed ramps from the building super. Drove car up on ramps. Chalked wheels. Got comfy under the ***************. Working on the street, I put cardboard down under all the "trouble" areas, as I was certain I'd inevitably need to use large amounts of penetrating oil. I was right about that! Plus lying on cardboard is nicer than 40 degree pavement. I was smart enough to start shooting the linkage with PB Blaster the week before I began this project. My linkage was basically FUSED to the transmission so try to focus some at that joint. Again, here's the hard part. One cannot get a straight shot with a punch at the spring pins. It is impossible as your transmission is in the way. This is where you should ABSOLUTELY drop the transmission enough to get in there. I unfortunately had two issues preventing me from doing this; 1, I didn't have a 14mm deep socket. I could un-button all but ONE of the transmission mount bolts (!). Second, I didn't have a real secure or smart way (transmission table or bottle jack) to support the transmission. A stack of 2x4 chunks isn't the smartest or sefest, Plus the *************** is heavy to shove back into place. So take it from me and don't do it that way. But using my method, I was able to nudge the transmission about 1/2", enough for slightly cleaner access to the pins. Using a motley assemblage of a punch, socket, universal socket joint, and a 10" socket extension (held together with electrical tape) I was able to hammer the piece of ************ pins out. Again, read doc526's walkthrough for a description of the punch setup. Once the pins were popping out the top enough to get a vicegrips on, I was able to negociate a smaller one in there, clamp down, and pound on IT with a socket extension to pop the pins. There are two spring pins, one nested inside of another. You have to use the smaller punch to knock the little one out first. Then the larger punch for the second, bigger pin. I ended up having to use a torch on the transmission shaft the linkage sits upon. After a good 30 minutes of hammering on that with a 5lb drilling mall and a big concrete chisel, I was able to get the old linkage off. Luckily it's a tough part so I didn't bang it up too bad. Here it is just before the last pin was knocked out: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/linkage_mount.jpg Here's the gnarly old bushings: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Old%20plus%20bushings.jpg I spent nearly an hour cleaning the shifter arm and all of related bits. I re-greased the bits which needed grease. Make sure you do this. This is also the time to replaced the 4 other bushings. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff Inside the shifter assembly, I removed the wire-clamp, pulled the shaft it out of the rubber boot and replaced the big white bushing , #35035KA010 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/shift_bushing.jpg Lots of grease. Buttoned it up and cleaned everything. I didn't take photos of this for some reason Much to my amusement, the Subaru dealership had sold me the incorrect linkage. Luckily, I threw out the plastic baggie it came in so they won't let me return the $60 part. The internal bushings were all shot causing a huge amount of slop. I'm nearly positive the way to determine WHICH linkage part # you need is simply based upon whether yours is equipped with the "neutral return" spring or not. This spring attaches to a washer with a tang and to a hole the linkage. My spring was missing of course, but I was wise enough to order a new one just in case. Here's how I rebuilt my linkage. It took some time and I had PLANNED on replacing it anyway. If I had to do it all over again I would STILL replace the part rather than rebuild the old one, but it isn't necessary. A bit of time will save you a $60 pain in the rump roast part. I cut the head off the rivet holding the mess together (see photo link below) with my Dremel+cutoff wheel. A trip to the hardware store later, I had a 3" 5/8" bolt, a 2.5" 3/8" bolt, two nuts, two nylon lock nuts, four flat washers and four lockwashers. I used locktite on the bolts too. I realize it's total overkill but I'll be damned if I'll have those stupid bolts backing out and flying off while my wife is driving on the Brooklyn Queens Expressway, dodging tractor trailers and taxicabs without the luxury of "changing gears". The 3" 5/8" bolt rig replaced the rivet. The 2.5" 3/8" bolt rig replaced the spring pin ************fest. I believe I cut down both bolts to fit a bit better with the Dremel+cutoff wheel. I strongly recommend you do the same in case you have to pull yours out for any reason. Which I of course had to do after assembling something incorrectly! My god If I would've had to get those spring pins out again I think I would've lost it. Heres a photo of the linkage indicating the rivet and the spring mount hole. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Linkage_rivet.jpg Got it all back together - feels 100% better. Something STILL isn't quite right as it doesn't "stay" in first or second gears. But at least the stick returns to neutral. My wife can drive the car now And I haven't missed 5th gear/hit 3rd since. SO I think i'm in good shape. Pretty sure I simply put the big washer with tang that the "neutral return spring" attaches to back on incorrectly - it's under quite a lot of spring pressure at all times. But I haven't had the heart to climb back under the *************** Here's the correct parts diagram taken from Opposed Forces.com (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_44/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_1/). I've circled the parts I replaced. Full part numbers: bushing #35035A in diagram = subaru part number 35035AA030 "Sport Bushings" - Buy 4 of these. 44044AA010 "Spring" - Neutral return spring. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff This is a two hour job if you 1) move the tranny and 2) do your homework and have the right parts on hand. I could only nudge #1 and as hard as I tried, I failed at #2. Luckily I was able to make it work. ======= Since this job, we succesfully drove our "new" '96 Subaru from Brooklyn NY to my Mother in law's in Rockville Md, outside of Washington DC. I did this job, as well as bled the brake system/changed brake fluid. She also received a new stereo (bluetooth hand free calling FTW) as well as front speakers! Looks pretty good. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/stereo.jpg That cable coming out is the microphone for the hand free calling setup. Gonna re-route it up the vents or something. It's about a 400 mile drive and the car performed FLAWLESSLY. I was very impressed. My gas mileage consistently improved, too; first tank was 22mpg; second was 24.5 and the last was 26.5! Plus we brought this guy home http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/nico%202.jpg Having a car allowed us to pickup the dog outside Philly on our way back from DC. sure beats AmTrak or a grayhound. Since we got home I did a SeaFoam "crankcase" treatment via the PCV valve (with some in the gas). She was starting to idle a bit rough, and for some reason wouldn't drop below ~1k RPM. The SeaFoam totally fixed my idle and it feels/sounds great. It poured out SO MUCH white smoke it was like a goddamn smokescreen! I took it on Ocean Parkway, a sort of mini-expressway, and drove at high speed. The drivers behind had to change lanes to see! This ended after 5 mins and the car has been happy since. While I was pulling vacuum hoses to dump the juice in I found the inside of the vacujm hoses are deteriorating! Black rubber gunk has collected in those hoses, which I believe is greatly restricting airflow. I cleaned / sprayed them out the best I could and re-assembled. So I'll be replacing those hoses. I've already got ~1500 miles on her since I bought it, so I'll be changing the oil again. Next up : struts in front and back, as well as the "power steering gear boot" on the driver's side. Got a part on the way. I don't think I need to replace the tie rod. After that I'm gonna take her in for a front end alignment. It's actually really great in terms of alignment but has a SLIGHT pull to the left. So that will be a good time do do it - figure it will need it after I pull that tie rod/replace the struts! Thanks and please let me know if you have any questions about any of this. I'm by no means a master mechanic but I'm learning.

Forgot to ask again, How do I know if my tie rod needs to be replaced? Can I determine that before I tear the front suspension apart? I don't have another car is the issue. Here's a (poor quality) photo of my boot tear. It's ~2inches, and vertical on the Left power steering boot. I can see shiny, not-rusty tie rod inside. I don't see any grease, however. should I shoot some grease up in there for the time being? https://p.twimg.com/AndFlIdCAAAfkpZ.jpg Should I buy the inner+outer tie rod parts "just in case" to have on hand? Or should I simply replace the "power steering gear boot" and put the old tie rod back on? I don't mean to be a pest guys, and I really do read/search. I know what parts are involved, their names, what they do, generally how to pull them off and put them back on. But I'm working outside in a big city, in the cold, and with not a lot of experience. It really helps my confidence to hear from somebody whether I'm barking up the wrong tree or not You guys' guidance has brought me a long way already-couldn't have got this far without USMB. xox

Thanks for the driver side clarification. Through all of the posts I've read, some people give the wrong side and THAT got me confused. If you read enough conflicting information, the truth can become hazy sometimes. I refer to the shifter bushings as "little stuff" not from a repair difficulty perspective, but from a larger "severity of issue" perspective. The fact that I have a completely drivable vehicle that has an inconvenient amount of play in the shifter to me is "little stuff". Do you have any advice for troubleshooting vacuum leak? If i fire up a cigar, can I blow it into the PCV valve without breaking stuff? Or can I spray soapy bubbles onto the hoses with the engine running without breaking stuff? Gonna do the fuel filter too. Hopefully that will help to improve my MPG's from 10-12(!) . No CEL, no codes.

Cool, thanks for the reply. Yes, I have spent many hours reading nearly every article I could find on shifter linkages - both on this board and the internet abroad. But like I said, the result was I was left with more questions than I had before I started. Because of the variation in the parts, and the fact that everyone else seems confused about it as well (including a few Subaru mechanics I've spoken with) led me to this post. I really do try to be self-sufficient. But thanks for taking the time to reply. I didn't realize I could see the stupid linkage without tearing it all apart though, so that's a huge help all by itself. I ended up finding the linkage nearby in NJ yesterday, but I can return it if mine is okay.. Here's hoping. These parts aren't cheap! Hopefully the weather will be as nice as it supposed to be. It didn't get above 40 today, and at that temp my fingers start to get swollen from the cold. I'd give my left nut for a heated garage to work in... Working on the street is cold and stressful Thanks again. I'll post here tomorrow if I get myself into trouble

The more I read about the shifter bushing/linkage replacement job, the more confused I get. There seems to be a number of versions depending on model/Mfg. date. My car is a "bump roof" '96 Legacy Outback Wagon (B11, i belive) with 2.2l and 196k. The Mfg. Date is 11/95, as per the door jam Subaru badge. As mentioned in the previous post, I purchased 5 bushings. Here's the parts diagram I got from the Subaru dealership in Queens. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/42779/Gallery/Shufter_Part_Numbers.tiff I bought bushings 4x Part# 35035AA030, and 1x #35035KA010 (circled on the diagram). I also got a "cable return spring" though some sources say that my model doesn't HAVE a spring... I mentioned this to the subaru parts guy and he shrugged and said "you won't need it". It was $2 and i figured what the hell. I believe I may also need to replace the linkage; is that correct? The guy at the Subaru parts department was pretty insistant that I wouldn't need to replace the linkage, rather I just needed new bushings. But after seeing photos in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113480&highlight=shifter+bushings&page=2 (of a nearly identical model, year, and mileage) and his GNARLY looking linkage The shifter is SO sloppy my wife has a very difficult time driving the car, which we can't have. Finding third gear is nearly impossible for her she drives around town in 2nd LOL. I really, really don't want to have to do this job more than once. As it is now I work late at night; I'm on the street in Brooklyn, NY and i'm paranoid somebody is gonna hit my car while I'm under it. So, four questions. 1) Should I replace my linkage, along with the bushings I bought? 2) What is the correct part number? (My sheet designates the linkage as (35046*B.....) 35047AC030 That's what I'm lead to belive based upon the diagram supplied by Subaru. I called a different Sub dealer in brooklyn with a linkage part number 35047AC010 and she immediately said I was wrong and gave me a "different" part number 35047AC030. 3) Do I also need bushings "35035F" (cirled blue on diagram), or are they included with the linkage? 4) Should I pickup any other parts/bushings/nuts/bolts etc when I go to Subaru this am? The official Subaru of America parts page doesn't even LIST the linkage; when I plug in the part number it warns me that 'this part may not fit your vehicle' THANKS guys. This forum has saved me $100s of dollars already. Probably closer to $1000s. I LOVE my new (to me) Subaru <3 and I'm having a blast learning about it. I've been daydrearming of walking away from the IT business and going to Mechanic's school.

Hey all, The old '96 Legacy Outback Wagon is shaping up nicely. I've finally conquered the exhaust leak(s) by installing new gaskets between all the pipes and cats. pic.twitter.com/QYzM2VIz - harvested exhaust gaskets! Next up is the shifter bushings*. I also caved and bought new exhaust bolts/springs/nuts while I was there, as the Ford exhaust manifold bolts/springs I bought at Autozone didn't fit Anyway, here's my question: Since the car's steering is totally fine, and from what I can see by peering into the boot, the tie rod is cool. How do I know it needs to be replaced? But if I need to pull it off to replace the boot, i might as well replace it if it needs to be swapped. One thread I've been reading : http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/23316-replacing-cv-boots-outback.html Here's a photo of the small tear in my boot. pic.twitter.com/AvCgJYAL Sorry for poor quality. I do know to mark the tie rod threads before removal (think i'll use spray paint) to avoid needing front end alignment. Surprisingly the alignment on the old girl is cool. I've been hitting all related bolts with penetrating oil about every night for a few nights now. Is the driver's side the left or right side??? I've seen both around the 'web, just wanted an official definition. Other than that, I have recently developed a rough idle issue under zero load. suspiscous of a vacuum leak. I cleaned the PCV valve (wanted to replace but the one dude gave me at Autozone doesn't fit) intake/throttle plate the other night and although i was conscious of the vacuum hoses, it definetely idles rough right now. For finding the vacuum leak: Can i just use a bit of soapy water in a spray bottle? I read that you should attach your air hose to the PCV valve and BLOW air into the system, then squirt soapy water. I don't have an air hose, or any hose that really fits (i could use my shopvac exhaust to blow). Or can i just spray while the car is running. I still need to do the timing belt/water pump/thermostat/coolant flush so i'm not gonna go nuts troubleshooting the idle issue until then. Should I just replace all of the vacuum system hoses? My gas mileage is TERRIBLE, getting about 10-12mpg. Hoping the exhaust leaks were contributing. Bought a cool OBDII reader; no trouble codes from the engine. Any tips/thoughts on poor mileage? Next up for little stuff: -Adjust hill holder (it sticks). Surprisingly the front breaks seem fine! -Replace shifter bushings -Rear brakes (front ones are fine! i was surprised how much meat was left). *I've purchased my bushings OEM from Subaru; apparently this model just needs 4 little bushings replaced. I think i have to remove a rivet that holds the linkage assembly together, replace the bushings and then re-assemble. I had a hell of a time figuring out WHAT kind of linkage is in my car, but dude at the Subaru parts department in LIC helped me. Cross fingers. Gonna tackle that either tomorrow or over the weekend.

Awesome. This has been highly informative everybody, I can't thank you all enough for your time. And I'm feeling confident about my "coastal crap" too! So confident I drained/replaced my rear diff lube with the Coastal as well. I think i will bring a jug to the LongIslandCity Subaru dlr and get it there next time. She doesn't like to shift to 2nd gear until it's totally warmed up. It doesn't bother me, i baby it anyway. Gears don't grind at all it just feels stiff, you know?0 Perhaps lighter 75w90 next time, eh? (that's lighter right?

Wow, is that right? I got all worked up like an idiot! This is great news. Lucky Texan, do you have a preferred brand/viscosity gear oil?

Hey gang, Here's a two pronged bone-headed issue. Car - 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon. ~196k, on it's third clutch (i bought this car 1 week ago). Long story short, a friend of mine was "helping" me work on my new (to me) car last night. He changed the transaxle oil. I had a new bottle of Castrol synthetic 75W-90 as a "top off" bottle as well as the 4 bottles of el-cheapo "Coastal" 80W-90 I bought at autozone last night. TL/DR: •Non-gearhead friend used ~2.8 quarts of non-synthetic 80W-90 cheap-o oil and 1 quart of synthetic 75W-90. That's what's sitting transmission right now. Do i need to immediately drain this somewhat expensive mistake and start over immediately? If so, what make/model of gear oil would you suggest? Or, i get away with putting a few miles on this current setup? The Castrol (synthetic) page says "Fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic API GL-5 gear oils." so there's that. So I suppose my question REALLY becomes, is it okay that i mixed viscosity? I don't use the car commute to work. Mostly city driving,…. The REAL kicker: the cheap oil's specs page says " Limited Slip applications for top-off only." Did Mr. AutoZone give me the wrong oil in the first place? All of the numbers like "API GL-5" and "MT-1" are there on the cheap oil's bottle. I'm an idiot. On the plus side, the car changes gears much better now I'm confident what's in it NOW is better than what WAS in the car. That ************ came out green and STINKY. ick. Product pages for both of my oil types.... Cheapo Oil: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Coastal-1-qt-80W-90-gear-oil/_/N-25t1?itemIdentifier=561712_0_0_ Castrol "Syntec" oil: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915494&contentId=7036193

Yup you're right. I'll do that tomorrow when I change the oil. FWIW the radiator hoses are fresh and rubbery. I have the maint. records and that was changed sometime in 8/10. The thermostat as well. Definitely gonna do the flush though. Found a new issue while poking around for my oil leak, driver front strut "Dust Cover" has a hole in it. A rubber boot looks kinda like a CV boot. It looks pretty fresh actually. Very possible I did it today, as this car wasn't driven really in the last year (except to change street parking spots). Can i just get a new "Dust Cover" and slap it on there? Should i not worry?

OK Folks, we got the car! She was down 2 quarts of oil and is already leaking like a stuck pig. The engine SOUNDS way better now, so that's a bit of a relief. Put air in the tires, now i just need to give it a good wash/vacuum/detail! TOmorrow. I have a feeling that's why there wasn't an oil slick underneath; she was outta oil Hoping its just the oil pan gasket, we shall see. Questions: The owner's manual is vague on coolant level. I can see about an inco of coolant in the overflow reservoir when the car is running for a bit. Should i simply buy a bottle of coolant and fill to the "full" line? Do i need a premix for that?