fishboy

Okay last question I promise.. The bowl vent valve that was in my carb is missing it's plunger. It literally just doesn't have one, and I understand it is supposed to. So it just doesn't do anything. Is this a problem and will I need to get a new valve?

But the paperclip protrusion doesnt "poke out" in any way so doesn't always push on the accel pump ball. It sits flush with the bottom of the larger barrel, and the ball sits inside a smaller barrel beyond this, and can flop around within that smaller barrel. Definitely hearing you on the overly complex statement!

any ideas?

I think I'm going to be a hitachi expert by the time i finish this thing (been at it for 2 weeks!)

Okay will do. Thanks!

Ah, okay excellent. I will give it a good scrub now that I know that I'm not going to be dropping bits down inside the engine

Assembling the carb again and noticed the workshop manual stresses this: "NOTE: THe accelerator pump spring has a close wound end which must push on the accelerator pump ball" See picture from nanual below. Unfortuantely, the spring that was in my carb definitely does not. The ball is recessed so without the close wound end I can see that it will flop around a lot. Is this a problem??

Anyone...?

I'm rebuilding the hitachi carb and reinstalling it. Do I need to clean the gunk out of the way? Is it a pipe or just gunk? Will I risk particles falling down inside my engine if I do?

So i've removed the hitachi carb from my EA82 (my first time doing this) and I'm staring the inlet manifold. As you can see in the photo, the bottom hole seems to be gunked up with something. Is this hole supposed to be totally clear? Or is there supposed to be a smaller tube poking out within it or something? I can't tell if this is just a big blob of gunk or whether it is a corroded pipe (or something), and I'm afraid to touch it as I don't want rubbish falling down inside the engine. What should I do??

Thanks Doug! I'm afraid I already distorted the slot a bit....will that cause issues?

My goodness. So I got the seat out with the extractors..woohoo! JUST when I thought I was on my way - I go to remove the Primary Slow Air Bleed (see pic) and it's similarly stuck! Only this time I definitely DON'T have a replacement. So...is it really necessary to remove this when cleaning/servicing the top body?

I'd like to trust them, but sadly the company (called "FuelMiser") here can't confirm that it's definitely the right kit. The only information they have is that it should fit Subaru L Series up to 1989 (mine is 1991). They have no other kits to fit later model cars.

...anyone?

The seat that comes with the kit has an outer diameter which is slightly smaller than that currently in the carb (existing one is 12mm, the replacement one is 11mm). The inner diameters look about the same though. See pic below. Addionally, as I said above, the replacement seat has fewer holes around the bottom than the exisiting one too. Can anyone suggest whether this new seat is still going to be okay? The only reason I ask is that it looks like I am going to have to destroy the old one getting it out (via screw extractor), since all other suggestions so far have failed including heating with butane torch

So I just had a good look at the replacement seat and it is a bit different to the existing one. The one currently in the carby appears to have 6 holes in it, whilst the replacement one only has 2 larger holes in it (see pic). Is this likely to cause a problem?

Ferox - I have a rebuild kit but totally thought this seat wasn't included...but on closer inspection it is!! I will definitely give the screw extractor a go in this case. Thanks. And thanks to all for your advice so far!

Okay, thanks. I'll let you know how I go!

Apologies for being pedantic!...but are you sure I can apply a butane torch flame to the aluminium? Wouldn't it quickly melt/deform he aluminum top cover?

It looks like I've burred the slot on the assembly bit trying to free it. Is this going to affect the function of the carby?

Ah, okay. Where would you apply the flame - directly to the aluminium or to the brass bit? (sorry - I'm new to this..)

Thanks Doug! What's the best way to apply some heat - with a hair dryer?

Hi all, So I'm rebuilding my Hitachi EA82 carby according the Gregorys workshop manual and I've a hit a snag in dismantling the top cover. After removing the float, I am supposed to remove the needle valve seat assembly (the brass colored thing in the image below) "using a screw driver". What do they mean by that statement? Am i supposed to just jam a screwdriver down the side and try and pop the whole assembly out? Or am I supposed to use a large slot screwdriver to rotate/screw it out (there is a slot in the top)? If it is the latter - I tried and tried to unscrew this (anticlockwise) but it just started burring the slot. Anyone done this before and know how it is supposed to be removed??