lucasb

Doing it tomorrow. Will check the hubs. Thank you!

Thanks for the suggestions. The brake parts lubricant looks like something I should pick up. I still need a product to clean the storage oil off my new rotors too though, right? Brake fluid is probably a good idea. I'll start looking up how to do that myself. And you guys brought up a point I forgot. I don't have a torque wrench, but it sounds like I should start searching for one, are they necessary for the job? Much appreciated!

Hello, I just had my Duty C solenoid replaced, but asked the mechanic to look at the whole car before I paid for the fix. He identified a problem I thought I had. My front left brake is dragging or, getting stuck, and I can feel it when I drive. Yesterday driving it home from the shop was the worst. My front left tire area was smoking. My steering wheel has been pulsating when I stop for a few thousand miles now and the mechanic told me my front left pad was at 2mm. So I'm going to replace my front rotors and brake pads. My question is about the brake drag. The mechanic told me it was probably the slider pins getting stuck and I just need to pull those out, clean them, and regrease them. Sound right to you guys? I have seen videos on youtube and read countless how to pages, but this is my first car and first time fixing my own car so I have a few questions still. 1. What kind of grease should I use on the slider pins? And I understand I should use wool wire to clean them? 2. I should go out and buy brake cleaner spray, and spray that on the new rotor to remove packaging oil, right? 3. Are there any other parts I should grease up, etc, and what with? 4. Do you think the dragging brake is most likely the slider pin? Could it be a bigger issue? I've done a good amount of research, so I hope I'm not reposting someone else's question. I truly appreciate the help. Thank you.

So an update on my issue: I've drained and refilled my tranny fluid 5 times, used the trans-x, and I still have torque bind. At this point I'm ready to get it looked at by a shop, but I have noticed a few things and I am hoping maybe someone here can pin the source of my problem. Hopefully its just A problem, and not many. Here goes: When I start my car for the first time of the day, everything is great. I don't even have torque bind. However, after driving for a little the torque bind comes back. When I first start the car my RPMs are normal, but when I go into reverse to back out of my drive way they drop to just above 1,000. As I drive my car my RPMs will run extremely low when I'm not accelerating. Like 300 low. It looks like this say, at a stop light. I also get a whining when I have to accelerate up a big hill. arg.... Like I said I'm going to take it in, but if this extra information means anything to anyone I'd love to hear. Thanks.

GrossGary: I've changed my ATF by draining the pan 3 times now. The torque bind is gone immediately after changing the fluid, and the ATF oil temp stops flashing, however, each time it comes back after 20-50 miles or so. The ATF fluid has gotten slightly more red each time, but still appears pretty black when its 4 quarts thick. For someone who doesn't have much money, what are my options? I've never done more than change fluids on cars. I am open to trying to repair it myself if that's possible, but obviously I lack a lot of general knowledge. The FWD cures the torque bind, so I'm pretty sure it is my clutches that have gone bad. I have warped rotors, but don't really wanna pay for new ones until I get this figured out. Doing them first couldn't potentially solve the problem though could it? Every ones help is extremely appreciated.

Say the ATF was changed and it didn't go away. Then what? /thread highjack

I drained the ATF pan and replaced with some high mileage Dexron stuff that a local auto store recommended. However, I only got to do one change before making the 200 mile drive. The drive felt great. I did some figure 8s before leaving and didn't feel any binding. However, when I started my car after the drive I got the 16 flashes from the ATF Oil Temp light, and I have torque bind again. I have to make the 200 mile drive again, unfortunately my FWD fuse isn't doing the trick anymore, so I'll just have to toughen it out. Once I make that drive I'm going to do a few more pan draining. Even though the ATF on my dipstick looked really clean, when it came out of the pan it was pretty gross. So I'm just really hoping I need to change it a few more times. Always open to suggestions. Thank you!

Hello, I put the fuse into the FWD and I get the light and torque bind goes away. I'm googling like crazy now to figure out the next step, but I'm always welcome to feedback here Sorry I know the issue has been discussed 100 times. I'll report back with what I've learned in the next few hours one way or the other.

Such a great response! Thank you so much! I guess I'll have have to wait and see what the FWD and ATF does. Thank you!

Gary, Thank you for your detailed response. Some follow ups: So tomorrow I'll change the ATF, and then I'll do another before leaving on Tuesday. My understanding is i'll only change 3-4 quarts of ~12 by emptying the tray, so I'll do a few before heading out on Tuesday. I'll also do what I can with the tire pressure. My only follow up question with the worn tire is: You don't think the worn tire is playing into the bind/flashing AT Oil Temp flashing light do you? So you said a mechanic is a waste of time and I should fix the torque bind first. I'm a little confused because I imagined fixing whatever electronic issue I am having with my transmission would fix the torque bind? For instance, it seems like most likely replacing my Duty C solenoid would fix the whole thing? I don't want to start researching how to do this until I know what the issue is, hence I want a read back from a diagnosis. Does that make sense? Really appreciate any feedback!

Hello, I'm a new car owner, especially new to understanding how a car works, hence repairs. I have a 1998 Ouback with 189,000 miles on it. I bought it used for 2,400 with 184,000. I realized a few weeks ago my front passenger tire was wearing on the outside way faster than any other. I went in and got my car aligned. I was told they aligned my car, and confirmed my suspicion my rotors are warped. I got the alignment, but I think I can do the rotors myself, although I haven't yet. And have drove about 4 thousand miles on the warped rotors. My front passenger tire is visibly more worn than the others. After the alignment I took a 200 mile drive. I can't remember exactly the first time I saw the flashing AT oil temp light, but it was either right before, or after this drive. I get the 16 flashes on start up. I might have been noticing a small amount of torque bind prior, but nothing like I can recently. I'm a student graduating in a few months. I have a few grand left in my bank account. So here are my questions: How much is my worn tire be affecting this problem? and how much more damage can it be doing? I tried the secret handshake, but just can't get the light to flashback at me. Tomorrow I'll try some figure 8's with my FWD fuse enabled and see if there is a difference. Should I also drain my ATF fluid and replace it? It looks nice and red from the dipstick, but I don't have prior experience with knowing if ATF fluid is still good. Should I just see a dealer and see if they'll tell me the code without charge? Also, I have to make that 200 mile drive again on Tuesday. How concerned should I be driving it? I can make the drive and see a mechanic, or put the drive off until Wednesday, see a mechanic here on Monday hoping to get it fixed b/f the drive. I really appreciate the help this forum provides! Thank you!