Zem

It is indeed a 2x2 connector that plugs into the 3x2 relay. I figured the car might burst into flame, but I tried it anyway. It works!

Thanks, that helps me figure out how the fuse box attaches. The only plug that is 3x2 in the area is what plugs into the lights. The 2x2 is near there...

About a year ago I decided to repair the holes in the dashboard. This meant taking the whole thing out. I thought it would be a few days, but it turned into over a year (though the dash has now been flocked green). The problem is I was not great with documenting it, and it has been to long to remember where everything went. Most things went back together alright, but there are two issues... and I hope very much that they are related. 1) The HVAC fan doesn't work. I have tested the fan itself, and it is fine, so I am not getting power to it. I have checked the fuse, but it seems the switch doesn't see any love. 2) I have a bracket with a relay attached to it, and I have no idea where it goes. Hopefully it is related to the HVAC fan. I *believe* it goes under the steering wheel based on the prong things that hold up the round relays. It's worth noting that KingBobDole did a swap on this, so I'm not even sure anything connects to this relay. The relay has room for 6 connectors, but there are only 4 of them. There is a dangling connector that only has 2x2, so it would fit, but... that would be weird, right? If it's 2x3, even if it only has 4 actual wires, you'd expect the connector to have 2x3 and two empty slots. So anyway, if this looks familiar to anyone and you can give me some idea of where it goes and what might plug into it, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Well, ************. That will be a mess to replace if it's bad. The spark plug is a dry, matte finish. Everything I can find online shows oil will look glossy and carbon will be matte.

The engine was recently rebuilt. My concern was the head gasket, and that seems fine. Yes, I know it's static so it only tests the one point, but that's the best I have right now. This is an embarrassing question... what exactly is the coolant temperature sensor? I mean, which of the various gizmos in ancient technology is it? My guess is that it is either the plug facing straight up just to the left of the distributor or, God forbid, the plug that is about 8 inches straight down from that one.

Ok, I did another leakdown test. The cylinder itself is holding strong with less than 10% leakage. I took some pictures of the engine for identification. I'm not sure what you're looking for, though. They aren't very good, but let's see if I can upload them without looking too retarded... Obviously the intake is just sitting there since I took it off to get to the cylinder. And there's the little bastard right there.

I suppose it could be oil. We did a leak down test and that side checked out fine (the other side was bad, and it was fixed). Maybe the timing issues killed a head gasket in 50 miles. I'll try it again.

I'll get some pictures up tonight. Identifying what I have will obviously help. For example, the MAF... I have the 84 Subaru manual. I found where it tells me how to test the MAF. It shows 4 wires. When I got into the MAF itself, it's 5 wires. The coolant temperature sensor may be fubared. I'll need to figure out where that is and how to test it, but presumably that's in the manual. It's also possible the wires are broken. The gauge on the dash shows nothing. It just seems odd that the MAF or coolant sensor could cause one cylinder to be very rich and not the others.

Ok, I think I understand. My pulley was marked, though I don't know by whom or when. I just made the mark on the pulley line up at 15 degrees on the... thing with the marked degrees from 0 to 25, and I don't know what it's called. I haven't done a thing with the flywheel. Hopefully Shawn or Jerry can tell me what flywheel is on there and how it should shake out since it went through both of them.

It is indeed a manual swap. I just did timing just by the 84 manual, which was 15 deg BTDC. Timing could easily be messed up. For that matter I could have the firing order messed up even though I checked it against all the sources I could find. This is something for me to stumble through, but how does the flywheel change the orientation of the pulley? I thought the pulley was fixed with relation to the crank shaft. It's not that I don't believe you, it's that this is the first pushrod and distributor motor I have ever messed with. Thanks

Hello. I'm over on AWDPirates but I don't think my requests for help are of much use. I thought I might try here. I am officially stumped. I wish I could even say what this car is. I believe it is mostly an 84 turbo coupe. The fuel injectors are from an 88 XT multiport. I acquired this car recently and it has been around the people of this forum. I have fixed several things here and there, but now I've hit a wall. The previous state was this... -Low power. -Backfirish noise coming from vicinity of turbo under any load. -After just 30 miles, the new spark plug in cylinder 3 was black (carbon). -Other plugs look mostly normal, but may show a little whiteness of knock (lean? timing?) I replaced that spark plug. I also bought a refurbished fuel injector. I put a timing light over the cylinder 3 spark plug wire to verify it was flashing. I checked the firing order. I checked the timing. With the new plug and injector, I started it up and... -Initially, would not rev above 2000 rpm (floored, in neutral). -After 10 minutes, I could rev it to maybe 5000 rpm. -I drove around the block. Horse drawn carriage would be faster. Very lower power. -I checked cylinder 3... black again after just 15 minutes. I then verified that with the car ON but not running, both wires on that fuel injector wire showed 12V. Some other things I haven't fixed yet. It is a digi-dash, and there is no reading for the coolant temp at all. I don't know whether that is a gauge or actual sensor issue. The fuel gauge is also completely random. Sometimes it shows about half as much fuel as I have, sometimes it shows I am completely out, and every so often it shows just about right where it should. Fundamentally, here is my problem... something is affecting cylinder 3 differently than the others. Many things could be wrong with the car (turbo, for example), but that should affect all the cylinders the same. I honestly don't know what to check right now. If it were a warm sunny day and I had all my friends ready to help me, I would just stare at the car blankly. Any help would be appreciated.