dann

As a followup to my question & with the help of Josh and his FSM details - I pulled the stub shafts without any complication last night. They are held with a circlip that collapses with just enough pull force. It stays with the shaft and doesn't disappear in the differential to cause problems. The shafts slide out easy after that. It a good trick to know if you booger up the roll pin sometime trying to change out an axle or just get tired of trying to drive it out in such a cramped area.

Has anybody ever just pulled the axle out of the differential without driving out the roll pin? I bought a transmission to swap out for my dying one and it came without the stub shafts that stick out of the differential. It is a 94 legacy 4eat. The guy said thats the way he pulls axles - just pull the whole thing out of the differential. He talked about a spring type retaining ring on the inboard end of the stub shaft that will disengage with pull and allow it to slide out. I went to pull out the stub shafts on my old unit to reinstall them in the newer one but in my opinion they don't seem to pull easy. I don't have a detail of how these stub shafts are retained to feel comfortable putting a puller on it. They have some free motion in and out of the differential but seem to have a positive stop that limits their coming out.

Hey thanks - I see the thing now. The place to look is aft from the engine compartment on the left side. My hand can touch it from there. You are right, I don't see getting a torque wrench on it to measure the adjustment withhout all sorts of parts coming off. I think I'll just do the 1/4 turn and try it. Seems odd even the Subaru info says to approach it from the rear end. Thanks again.

I am new to the message board system so I may be putting this in ther wrong place - but I have some added comment about the brake band issue. I have a 94 legacy 4eat with 180k miles and spent a couple of hours looking for the brake band adjustment screw yesterday. The Clintons made it sound easy while the endwrench TSB about the band adjust made it seem complicated. So I didn't remove the crossmember or anything - just thought I should be able to see the adjust screw. I couldn't either. Reading this thread indicates the xmember must come off and all the related endwrence info is correct. I am looking on the upper top left side at the rear of the unit but not on the end case - Correct? Mine is slipping in 2 as it goes into 3 and slips in 4th. These are two gear ranges that the brake works on as I understand from the endwrench 4eat transmission description. I did the farmer power flush last week where you pull the cooler return hose and run the motor. I added a little Lucas to the new oil mix. This was easy and good since it really clarified the slipping. I can control it by watching the throttle carefully but the car is hindered if I need power in either of these gearings. I do not have the 3-2 section of the manual where the adjustment is explained but I do have the Clinton adjustment using the bolt torque and add 1/4 turn if slipping info - Is this OK to run with? The Subaru manual site does not cover pre 96 so I am wondering about any information I might get if I paid for a download session. I originally posted in early September thinking that my torque converter was not locking up in 4th. Since my flush and more careful observation I am not thinking it is a band issue. Thank for any input.

Those are good information documents. Do you have the section related to line pressure testing the tranny oil pump as far as operating pressures that are normal? I am still trying to sort through why my 94 legacy doesnot want to lock in at high speed. Thanks

I have noticed my 94 legacy transmission with 175K miles has slipped out of engagement a couple of times when cold at low speed and is running higher RPM than I am used to at high speed. 3500 rpm is 60+ mph. If I have the gear ratio figured out correctly, this should be around 2200 rpm in 4th (2.56 total reduction on a 24 inch wheel diameter). My initial thought was that it was not engaging in to 4th. I got the least expensive dealer diagnostic where they ran the car with a select monitor. They say it is getting into 4th but it is not locking in (therefore slipping I assume). They note a oil pump leak. They also say the lockup duty ratio is running 5% and that this is like having a front wheel drive. They conclude time for another or a rebuild tranny. Any opinions on another course of action? I don't mind diddling around if it might get somewhere. This seems like it might be a pressure issue to the lockup clutch which may have a monitor point for checking. I have a steep gravel hill up to my house and I use the manual button for 50-50 power and have not noticed any problems here. First post for me though I have received a good education form the dialog on a number of items.