Dannyru89

Well , replacement seems to have taken care of the problem. I still can't beleive that was it, but the sound is gone. I'm going about 1000mi again over T-day so I'll see indeed. Danny.

I realize the car will detonate noticeably when I have too much, but I thought I'd ask for your input. Before I installed the IC all I could run was about 17deg adv. The FSM spec is 20 deg (+-) 2 deg. so I was close. It would detonate lots under load if I went higher than 17deg, we know why. Now that my combustion chamber temps are ice cold due to the IC and TB warmer hose by-passed I have her dialed in at 20-21 deg adv and it's a different car wholy cow! I'm happy with the performance, but has anyone melted, say, a piston if I go higher, not that I am I was just curious. Side note. I swapped really heavy harmonic balancer my 82T had on it for an older, and much lighter, two groove ea81 crank pully and saved myself about 5 pounds of rotational mass. Try it, it works great! With the I/C, custom conical air filter assy, 2.5" turbo back exh, lighter crank pulley, and upped advance she really scoots. Oh, I know the story with the T-stats, but when I put the I/C on I installed the Subaru 190deg stat back in and I find the computer really likes that much more. My MPG really went up after the swap. The ECU isn't trying to warm the engine up that extra 10deg it thinks it is suppose to be at. I can't wait to drive her again, I'll get my oil pump today and hopfully my sound goes away. Danny. 89Wag EA82T 5-spd 4x

Well, I took it apart. O-rings good. Rotor shaft worn and was .0001 smaller than an extra pump shaft I had laying around w/130,000mi on it. (sloppy) The shaft and pump assy housing were worn worse than the 130k shaft and pump assy. (flaking and galling of the alum housing from steel shaft, weird) Remember, this pump has only like 44,000mi on it. Rotor clearance was on the high side of spec, but miked out again smaller than the old rotor head. It was time for replacement. Bad pump? The block looks really good, there is a minor circular wear pattern on the block (back, not side) from the rotor head, but it looks better that some other blocks I have with less miles than this block has. New pump assy should be here Sat, keep your fingers crossed for me. Danny.

The sound increases in volume from when the car is ston cold to freeway hot. It's louder hot. It almost remindes me of the famous Ford PS pump sound. Like it's cavitating, perhaps I sucked the mickey mouse seal. But, it sounds too metalic, failing bearing metalic. Could the support sleave worn? I took apart an old pump I had and am mystified. I'll be taking it apart tommorw. Danny.

Yes, during Diag I isolated the noise by removing the V-belt for the W/P, P/S, and crank. Idling the car w/ T-belt covers removed in this condition is not recommended but for less than 10-15 sec for diag purposes it worked. (put crankpulley back on to keep RH belt from walking) I concluded that the noise was indeed comming from a t-belt related pulley. I thought it was the cog thing first. (nope) Since the LH idler felt good off the car freewheeling in my hand, but I couldn't test it under load so I replaced it since it was next to the cog and well that wasn't it either. Again, reason for my dismay in that it could be the pump. PSI is good and unchanged and it's not that old. Danny.

So I change the T-belts and drive a 1000mi round trip. I get there and I hear what I thought was a failing ball bearing. I guess it was a tensioner going bad after the change in pre-load fron the timing belt change. (both tensioners 25000mi old) Nope. Now I've changed both tensioners and the idler cog thing and this wirring sound is still there. No change in pitch or anything from these repairs. It just sounds like a failing idler. If I idle the car w/the timing covers off and stethascope the oilfilter and housing I can hear it now. I couldn't in my initial diag. This pump has 44,000mi on it, Castrol GTX 10-30/10-40 EVERY 2500-3000mi and Wix filters.. EXCEPT prior to my trip I used a purolator Pure One. I doubt that has anything to do w/it but who knows. I guess I'll throw a pump at it this week. I know there isn't a ball bearing in the pump this is why I'm in such disbelief and why I went for the other three pulleys in the housing first. It was just so hard to hear, even with the V-belt off just the T-belt idling. AHHHHH! Any thoughts folks? History, Stories? Danny. 89' 4xWag EA82T 5spd 225,000mi. really, I love walking to school while waiting for parts, or the for Ru to stop running.

I was just asking since the IC outlet pipe and throttle body seem really cold after a freeway run. I realize that is the purpose of the IC, but is there a point of too much coldness. I guess I'll find out. Danny.

So, I've had my Starion IC installed since June and it works great. I've bypassed the throttle body "warmer" tube with a long piece of 5/16 hose to increase the effectiveness of the IC, but now winter is upon me here in northern Michigan and is too much cold air a bad thing? Should I connect the T/B warmer or should I not be concerned with this. I did put my 190 deg t-stat back in because w/the 180 I couldn't build enough heat to warm the cabin below 35 deg outside at 60mph. At 60-75mph I build good heat w/the 190 and my temp gauge sits right in the middle. W/ the 180 stat it'd sit just below half in the summer no matter the load. So, heads should be ok? Will I have an icing problem, should I cover half of the IC to prevent this, if it even happens, or hook the warmer back up? Thoughts? Danny.

I know these things are like gold, but does anybody have one STRAIGHT 14" Pug? Michigan Dan.