MilesAway1980

Thanks for the replies. I didn't realize those were the 4WD drums. Is that because they have the grooves inside? Other than that, they look extremely similar. I used the method for tightening them by feel, backing off slightly, and then hand tightening the nut and locking it in place. The wheels spun freely and were nice and solid. Seemed to do the trick really well.

Thanks for the reply. However, that's not how this one is set up. It doesn't have anything like that cone washer. The setup is like this: - Large wheel bearing - Hub/Drum - Small wheel bearing - Thick disc washer (not a perfect circle, one edge is flat) - Thin, flexible sheet metal washer - Axle nut (not a castle nut. No cotter pin.) The theaded end of the axle itself has a groove/slot in it. The thick washer is about 1mm thick, is flat on one edge, and has a tab on the inside to go into the groove/slot and keep it from rotating. The thin sheet/washer has a tab like the thick washer, and then one edge is bent over to slide over the flat edge of the thick washer. The nut is then held in place by bending a corner of the thin sheet/washer up. I don't know if this would have the same torque since it's a different setup.

Hi all, Just removed the brake drums on my friend's 1987 Subaru GL. 2WD. The rear drums are this style: where the brake drum itself rides on the wheel bearings. However, I don't have a manual for the car, so I don't know the install torque. I know on some vehicles I've done before when it comes to wheel bearings, it's something like: Torque to 100 ft/lbs. Loosen. Torque to 75 ft/lbs. Sets the bearings, then resets the axle nut torque. Can someone give me the specifics for these drums? I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

Okay, cool. I'll put a new ground on the fuel pump and finish it up tonight then. I know the fuel pumps are usually wired to shut off under certain conditions like a roll-over, etc. and didn't know if the ground played into that. I wouldn't want to be going around a safety feature. Thanks for the post up of the grounds on the car. I had no idea where to even start looking for those. The wires from the fuel pump just go into a hole about 5 inches away and then "disappear".

IT RUNS! It needed a good jump and was a little flooded from all my tests with the FP. Now, to double check, is permanently wiring the ground on the fuel pump to the frame safe? Or is this a temporary thing only for diagnosing? I can't thank you all enough. You've been incredibly helpful! I don't think I could have figured this out on my own.

Hah! Ran a cable from the negative battery cable to the negative on the fuel pump, and the fuel pump came on with the key. It still won't start, but that's definitely a step in the right direction. Going to try to jump it, but thought I'd share that first.

Okay, I gave this a try. Grounded a 12v test light and then connected it to the blue/black wire. The light glowed (although not nearly as bright as it did when I touched it against the two black/white wires. The relay clicked, but the fuel pump did NOT come on at all.

Double checked, and no, the fuel pump relay isn't clicking until I try to start it (but it is clicking). I wasn't able to check the voltage to the relay itself since my voltmeter died on me, but I will hopefully do that soon. I tried connecting the green connectors under the hood. The CEL came on solid and stayed on, and I heard a clicking under the hood that sounded a lot like a turn signal. However, the fuel pump did not cycle on. Thoughts?

Found the fuel pump relay. It clicks whenever I turn the key on and off (I could hear it and feel it). I'm not sure if that means it's good or not. If not, is there a way to test it? Looked more closely and saw that there is a + - marking on the fuel pump... I also powered on the fuel pump and had someone monitor a fuel line into a gas can and it's pouring plenty of fuel. Double checked the spark, and the spark plugs are each sparking a good, blue spark. I had someone try to start it while I activated the pump and it still didn't start. About the only difference was that white exhaust came out the back. More thoughts? The fuel pump's definitely not turning on by itself, so that's definitely a problem. But it should have started once it got fuel...

Let me make sure I understood this correctly: Check for injector pulse. Should click and spray fuel every time the engine is cranked. Most lose injector pulse, not spark. Distributor must be grounded. Coil must be grounded. Coil bracket and ignition module must be grounded. Sounds like you smoked the fuel pump relay. It is on top of the column and is a silver relay with red and blue wires and is next to the brown ignition relay. Check that the plug is not partially pulled off of the brown relay. It happens because the wires are short.

Sorry I didn't get back to your replies on this sooner. I tried to get on the other day and I think the whole sight was down for a day or so. Before I try starting it while jumping the fuel pump, I need to double check to be sure I didn't do something wrong. When I jumped the fuel pump before, there was a little bit of smoke and electrical smell inside the car. What would have caused that?? Nothing seemed any different, so I don't think it damaged anything, but still, that's never a good thing. I didn't see any markings on the pump about a positive or negative terminal. Is there?

Okay, I ran some wires to the fuel pump and it jumped right to life. The fuse in the fuse block looked good, so what do I look for that's keeping the fuel pump from starting up? Where would the relay be? Thanks so much everyone, I couldn't have gotten this far without your help.

Well, I got some popping out of the exhaust with starting fluid that I wasn't getting before. Pulled the fuel filter off and it was full of fuel and when I blew through it it flowed freely. However, I ran a fuel line into a gas can and cranked it for a while and nothing came out. I don't think it's getting any gas at all. Time to crawl underneath and start looking at the fuel pump. Frustrating, since it's about 2 months past it's 1 year warranty. If it is the fuel pump, am I looking at another $250 to $300? Or do you know of a better place to get them? Also, I got to the ECU and when I turned on the key, it repeatedly only blinked 5 times. So, blink blink blink blink blink Pause Blink blink blink blink blink Pause Blink blink blink blink blink. Etc. What does that mean?

Where's the best place on a fuel injected intake to pour the starting fluid?

Alright, I'll try that. Do they have to be cranking it? Or can I turn they key on, crawl underneath it, and tap on it and see if it whirrs to life? Okay, that's what I thought. I'll dig a little deeper and pull the plastic paneling off. Which relay is for the fuel pump? Can I check it?

Are there more fuses than the fuse panel next to the steering wheel? I visually inspected all of those, but I didn't double check any of them in particular.

I guess I should have said, I don't have a vehicle with an electric fuel pump. But... Hrm... Maybe that's it. The fuel pump is only a year or so old (and those things are expensive!) but I didn't hear anything when I turned it on. Could explain the intermittent non-starting and lean condition if the fuel pump was going out. Is there any way to double check the fuel pump?

Alright, crummy weather kept me from getting too far yesterday, but I did try a few things. First off, I tried to pull codes but simply couldn't find anything that remotely looked like a computer under the steering wheel. Where is it located exactly? Do I have to remove the plastic paneling? Or should it be immediately accessible? Next, I tried unplugging the MAF and starting it, and it didn't make any difference. Still crank, crank, crank, without a single effort towards starting. One thing I did notice is that when I turn the car on, I can't hear the fuel pump prime. Should I be able to? I personally don't own a fuel injected car so I don't know how loud the sound is supposed to be. But, I had someone else turn the key on while I leaned down by the rear tire to listen, but I still couldn't hear anything. However, when I crank the engine, I can smell gas. I'll do further tests this evening, like renting a fuel pressure gauge, and drying the spark plugs and seeing if they get any fuel on them when I crank it. Do I need to crank the engine to build fuel pressure for the test? Or do I just need to turn the key on, making the pump prime? Thanks everyone.

Thanks! I didn't think so, but it's worth asking.

Thanks for the suggestion. It was mentioned by kerandt just a few posts back. I'll be trying that tonight. Where is the MAF located? Definitely worth a try! From what it sounds like, if the MAF isn't working and plugged in, it won't start. But if the MAF isn't working, and unplugged, it will start (just run poorly)?

Thanks for the idea, but I don't imagine that'd be the case. The car had been running for months before this, so it'd have to be something that went out on its own.

I haven't tried starting fluid yet. Never really needed it so it's not something I keep on hand. I'll pick some up since that would be a good thing to check. Where in the intake would I spray it? How do you check fuel pressure? I've seen a valve stem on the fuel line. At the risk of sounding ignorant, can you test the pressure on those with a regular tire pressure gauge?

I didn't. My friend said she had it done at a shop. However, I was wondering about the fuel pump as I was mulling over ideas last night. The old spark plugs were ashy white, so I know it hasn't been getting enough fuel. I wonder if the fuel pump's just not delivering enough, or maybe the fuel filter (although shiny new) may have plugged up with more junk and not enough is getting through. How do you check for proper fuel flow on an FI engine? If it were a carb, I'd just pull the fuel line and crank it and see if gas squirted out, but we're talking 40+ vs. 6 PSI. I imagine it'll come out with a lot more force if everything's working right. :-p If it had a carb pump, would it run at all?

Thanks for locating that for me! I spent a good 45 minutes last night using the search function on both here and Google and could honestly not find a single write up on how to pull codes. I was getting pretty aggravated. I appreciate it. (Of course, now that I see where it's located, it makes sense. ) I'll see if I can pull some codes tonight when I'm home.

I haven't done a compression check, but I have a tester, so I should do it. Also, I've been looking around for how to check codes, but haven't been able to find it. I'll see if I can still scrounge it up. The band that held the intake tubing to the intake was completely loose, but the hose was tight on the intake. I tightened it anyway. It was one of the first things I did, so it must not've made any difference. I'll look over the rest of the intake to see if there's any leaks, but most everything looks in really nice shape.