Recian

Itll be awhile. I got the last 5 speed awd in the area within 50 miles of here. And with consistant days with 110+ heat index ill wait to lay under a junkyard car lol

so the center diff isnt the actual diff like everywhere i've found says, it's just the tailshaft of the transmission then?

Makes sense seeing as when i back up out of a parking space and cut the wheels it'll stop. So i'm looking at a trans overhaul then Just out of curiosity could this be the same reason after going over speed bumps the car kinda rocks a little, if you give it gas it'll buck and jump back and forth really bad like bad motor mounts which i just replaced with a set of megan racing ones. Runs better but didnt fix that issue. How much do they run on average if you can find them? i can find 02+ WRX ones but not pre 02

Im curious if this is just a characteristic of the AWD car but my impreza when i take u-turns or tight turns in 2nd gear (usually 10-15 mph) it'll bog very low and lose all power or it'll buck really bad where you've gota push in the clutch throw it in 1st and stomp the gas to keep it from bucking over 3000rpm. If you let the clutch out too fast (almost like dumping on a 2wd but not so aggressive) it'll buck like that too. Im wondering if this is just a characteristic of AWD or do i have a MAF problem?

Find a real mechanic. When the wheels turn the alignment does change. Thats a duh moment. Also even new automatics drift until they hit the parking pawl when on a hill. A hard shift is to be expected at that mileage. A fluid change wont hurt as long as theres no torque bind.

I've seen alot of reverse manifolds in high performance turbo WRX's and i'm curious as to the reason why besides less piping going to the front mount intercooler. Would that type of manifold have any benefit for a NA?

i used to have a spare TCM from my m/t swap but it got rained on

Fine i dont like how cable clutches feel and i never have lol by the end of the year i'll have my frankenmotor built so it'll be easier to go ahead and just convert it to hydraulic. (honestly i think it's easier to pull out the clutch fork by yanking the engine rather than the trans) Plus the cable clutch isnt made to handle the stiffer clutches. Stage1s like the one i've got are ok but anything higher and the cable isnt made for it. Plus they stretch over time where the hydraulic may blow out a component which is easily replaced.

The trans fluid should have been changed half way through those miles. autos are very sensitive to the fluid. Hydraulic fluid will break down by time and mileage more so than other fluids and can cause problems. The fact that you can turn the car off and restart means you most likely have a problem with the shift solenoids in the valve body. If the key cycle didnt help i'd lean towards fluid or clutch related issues deeper in the trans. If it's electrical you should have a stored code. I'd recommend reading this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117234

honestly i dont see any difference. The legacy starter will electrically hook up in a impreza with no issues. The trannys are the same so the mounting points should be the same too.

So really i could just replace it with something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-SOLUTION-DRIVE-SHAFT-CARRIER-BEARING-BUSHINGS-SUBARU-IMPREZA-1995-95-/190607733756?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c611b33fc&vxp=mtr OEM says not servicable so finding new rubber bushings is out of the question.

I think i've found my clunk when i take off. I can reach under the car and move the drive shaft support bushing and it'll make the exact same sound. The bushing itself is fine but the 2 grommets that the bolts go through are the problem. I can move the frame when it's bolted down and hear the clunk at the 2 bolts. Can these 2 grommets/sleeves be serviced? or do i need a whole center bushing. If so how are these center bushings removed from the drive shaft? I have a custom drive shaft due to swapping my car to m/t so i'd prefer not to buy a new shaft.

stick with 90-94 imp or legacy. My 95 imp had a different starter when i put in the 93 legacy m/t. I had an a/t. The parts houses all list the starter i had (shorter) for the 95 whether it's a/t or m/t. The flywheel is shorter on the m/t than the torque converter teeth of the a/t so the m/t starter is longer. I know the legacy is the same because that's the tranny i'm running in my car.

That's what i was going for is clutch pedal feel. I've never really liked the way cables feel. I always feel like i'm going to break something because of how much of the drivetrain you actually feel. Hydraulic are the same feel from top to bottom, there's nothing pushing your foot back up. For a daily i'd prefer a better softer feel. Just curious is all

I got my motor mounts in this week and double checked my suspension and crossmembers while I was underneath. I found no visible signs of worn components and my tie rods and end links are nice and tight. Cant be moved by hand. The noise seems to have gotten worse with these mounts. It only does it on accel and braking (the 2 times when weight is shifted on/off the front end) Sometimes it'll be one clunk sometimes it'll be multiple clunks while i'm releasing the clutch. I'm thinking maybe I blew out the stuts or have bad strut top mounts. I know i've got a bad RH axle due to leaking grease but i've never heard axles do that nor have i felt them make a pop/clunk feeling in the floor. I replaced the one rear control arm bushing that was leaking but not the other. I took it off and it's dry not even any signs of dryrot where it's going to split.