Recian

Itll be awhile. I got the last 5 speed awd in the area within 50 miles of here. And with consistant days with 110+ heat index ill wait to lay under a junkyard car lol

so the center diff isnt the actual diff like everywhere i've found says, it's just the tailshaft of the transmission then?

Makes sense seeing as when i back up out of a parking space and cut the wheels it'll stop. So i'm looking at a trans overhaul then Just out of curiosity could this be the same reason after going over speed bumps the car kinda rocks a little, if you give it gas it'll buck and jump back and forth really bad like bad motor mounts which i just replaced with a set of megan racing ones. Runs better but didnt fix that issue. How much do they run on average if you can find them? i can find 02+ WRX ones but not pre 02

Im curious if this is just a characteristic of the AWD car but my impreza when i take u-turns or tight turns in 2nd gear (usually 10-15 mph) it'll bog very low and lose all power or it'll buck really bad where you've gota push in the clutch throw it in 1st and stomp the gas to keep it from bucking over 3000rpm. If you let the clutch out too fast (almost like dumping on a 2wd but not so aggressive) it'll buck like that too. Im wondering if this is just a characteristic of AWD or do i have a MAF problem?

Find a real mechanic. When the wheels turn the alignment does change. Thats a duh moment. Also even new automatics drift until they hit the parking pawl when on a hill. A hard shift is to be expected at that mileage. A fluid change wont hurt as long as theres no torque bind.

I've seen alot of reverse manifolds in high performance turbo WRX's and i'm curious as to the reason why besides less piping going to the front mount intercooler. Would that type of manifold have any benefit for a NA?

i used to have a spare TCM from my m/t swap but it got rained on

Fine i dont like how cable clutches feel and i never have lol by the end of the year i'll have my frankenmotor built so it'll be easier to go ahead and just convert it to hydraulic. (honestly i think it's easier to pull out the clutch fork by yanking the engine rather than the trans) Plus the cable clutch isnt made to handle the stiffer clutches. Stage1s like the one i've got are ok but anything higher and the cable isnt made for it. Plus they stretch over time where the hydraulic may blow out a component which is easily replaced.

The trans fluid should have been changed half way through those miles. autos are very sensitive to the fluid. Hydraulic fluid will break down by time and mileage more so than other fluids and can cause problems. The fact that you can turn the car off and restart means you most likely have a problem with the shift solenoids in the valve body. If the key cycle didnt help i'd lean towards fluid or clutch related issues deeper in the trans. If it's electrical you should have a stored code. I'd recommend reading this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117234

honestly i dont see any difference. The legacy starter will electrically hook up in a impreza with no issues. The trannys are the same so the mounting points should be the same too.

So really i could just replace it with something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-SOLUTION-DRIVE-SHAFT-CARRIER-BEARING-BUSHINGS-SUBARU-IMPREZA-1995-95-/190607733756?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c611b33fc&vxp=mtr OEM says not servicable so finding new rubber bushings is out of the question.

I think i've found my clunk when i take off. I can reach under the car and move the drive shaft support bushing and it'll make the exact same sound. The bushing itself is fine but the 2 grommets that the bolts go through are the problem. I can move the frame when it's bolted down and hear the clunk at the 2 bolts. Can these 2 grommets/sleeves be serviced? or do i need a whole center bushing. If so how are these center bushings removed from the drive shaft? I have a custom drive shaft due to swapping my car to m/t so i'd prefer not to buy a new shaft.

stick with 90-94 imp or legacy. My 95 imp had a different starter when i put in the 93 legacy m/t. I had an a/t. The parts houses all list the starter i had (shorter) for the 95 whether it's a/t or m/t. The flywheel is shorter on the m/t than the torque converter teeth of the a/t so the m/t starter is longer. I know the legacy is the same because that's the tranny i'm running in my car.

That's what i was going for is clutch pedal feel. I've never really liked the way cables feel. I always feel like i'm going to break something because of how much of the drivetrain you actually feel. Hydraulic are the same feel from top to bottom, there's nothing pushing your foot back up. For a daily i'd prefer a better softer feel. Just curious is all

I got my motor mounts in this week and double checked my suspension and crossmembers while I was underneath. I found no visible signs of worn components and my tie rods and end links are nice and tight. Cant be moved by hand. The noise seems to have gotten worse with these mounts. It only does it on accel and braking (the 2 times when weight is shifted on/off the front end) Sometimes it'll be one clunk sometimes it'll be multiple clunks while i'm releasing the clutch. I'm thinking maybe I blew out the stuts or have bad strut top mounts. I know i've got a bad RH axle due to leaking grease but i've never heard axles do that nor have i felt them make a pop/clunk feeling in the floor. I replaced the one rear control arm bushing that was leaking but not the other. I took it off and it's dry not even any signs of dryrot where it's going to split.

I'm just curious when subaru started using hydraulic clutches. I'm thinking about swapping mine in the 95 imp to hydraulic if it's even worth it. I know i'll need the pedals with master and the tranny with slave cylinder. Will it bolt right in with only mods being making a hole in the body or are there other things i'll need to consider? And if so what year/model vehicles can i take it from?

at least you got it resolved. My noise at take off is still there. It's worse now that i replaced my motor mounts.

if it turns out to be the trans check out this thread. It's got good advice and pics on rebuilding a 5mt. It's for an awd but theyre all pretty much the same. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182&highlight=front+seal

If i recall 94 imprezas were EJ18 only so youve got the small engine. My recommendations is change the timing belt. If the coolant isnt pretty green change the water pump and thermostat with it. For the ac you can go to a junkyard and pull all the lines and parts cheap for the ac then replace whatever components werent working from the doner car. Power windows are 50/50 so youll find them in the junkyard also. Pull a few motors. Take a volt meter and check resistance across the motor b4 u pull it so you dont get a bad one. And the average car burns about 1qt oil between oil changes. Thats normal for any car. Double check the leaks tho. I know oil pans and oil separators use liquid gasket which turns to powder after almost 20 years. For the rear brakes the LX came with them so you can swap it. Ive been looking for a good doner at the junkyard for awhile to get the hubs and knuckles from. For you junkyards will be ur best friend. Subarus are like legos you can take parts from one and put them on the other. Alot of parts didnt change between yr and model so they transfer

Sounds like a bad coil pack. Double check engine grounds too. If it was a sensor youd have a code. Usually if they fail you lose 2 cylinders but the ground circuit inside coild fail so id try putting a good coil on it.

naw there's no play when in gear or when it's in Neutral. I'm kinda curious if there's still dirt in the socket the shifter ball sits in causing it to get stuck. I took the shifter from the junkyard and dropped it in the dirt since it was rusted to the trans when i pulled the tranny. It seems easier to find 4th now that i've got a new set of megan motor mounts. All my old ones were split.

Well ive been living with this since i did my swap but it's finally getting annoying. The last straw was today when i tried to pass and ended up grinding gears and reving it high. Anyway here's my issue. When downshifting from 5 to 4 it'll usually grind going into 4 because i'll end up pushing it half way between 4 and R. I installed the spring that pulls it from 1/2 to center. However that spring only pulls the shifter to the center from 1/2. It doesnt pull from 5/R to center because it's on the left side. I'm curious if there's a 2nd spring that goes to the right side that im missing or some other reason. When you take the car out of 5th it'll sit in the center position to the right (between 5 and R) and wont return to center (between 3 and 4) If anyone's got pics of their setup under the car i'd appreciate that too. I do the large oval washer that the spring hooks to is rounded out. It's hard to keep it centered while bolting it down. There's a notch on it to keep it in a straight up position.

I know mine was yellow plastic. I have a 10/94 model production date so could be i have a pre 95 ej22

Yes. My 95 2.2 has a plastic one. I think its a revised or updated part to go metal. I resealed mine but i think its leaking again. Probably the plastic got brittle and will warp or crack. Thats why they changed it. Im going to get a metal one for my new engine.

has anyone here used head studs on this build yet? It seems to be a not so common usage on subarus unless youre running high boost. High compression im sure could aid in the use of head studs if you intend to push it. Unless im missing something.