Recian

Make sure you timed it right. If it did damage you should be able to make it run ull just have valve noise. I know the pre 2000 engines had 2 crank timing marks. U could be on the wrong one. If you didnt hear tap tap from valves hitting piston thats a good sign too. I dont see why 2000 to present timing would be much different. subaru rarely makes big changes to engines. Why mess with it if it aint broke.

Seems alot of other people mention this number on this build too. It's a shame i cant search it on cometic's web site. I guess i'll have to call them with the number when i get to that stage of the build

No theyre bigger. I just remember there were 6 from my at and only 4 fit so i had to get 2 others for my front portion. Its completely possible theyve worked loose after all the rough roads around here

yeah i made sure that nut was super uber tight. It seems to be more towards the right side so it's possible when i hit that hole since i hit it dead on front first i damaged both mounts. The replaced one had goo coming out and it was split so i know it was bad. The clunk can be felt more on the passenger foot board than anything. I'll double check the trans crossmember since I have looseness when shifting it could be a little loose. I had to use some bolts from lowes due to missing some of the bolts when i did the swap to m/t. I didnt realize the front 2 bolts are smaller than the rear 4.

Would the cometics be: http://www.cometic.com/sportcompact.aspx bore:100 MLS .040" P/N: C4264-040 Price:1 $52.76 So would you recommend OEM bearings or do you know another company? or could i use OEM WRX block bearings?

Would you feel that in the floor? My rack is leaking but the boots arent split. Theyre all twisted from what looks like someone did an alignment and the boot didnt spin like it should

I plan to put ACL race bearings and ARP head studs in it with OEM 2.5 head gaskets when I get it so it's just a matter of finding a 2.5 in good shape that didnt suffer water injestion. Is the oil pump you used an upgrade i can find or is it from a newer EJ25? Another curious question, are there any flow differences between the phase 1 and phase 2 EJ22 heads? I know the spark plugs are in different spots. My car has the "16 valve" v/c's with plugs in the head where i found one with flat covers and plugs through the top part of the covers. Both SOHC

im curious if you used the 2.5 injectors and MAF or the stock EJ22 maf, injectors and intake manifold? Kinda confused on the post.

My impreza has developed a pop when taking off. Sometimes it pops multiple times as i let out the clutch. It can be felt in the floor more than heard. I replaced the LF control arm bushing since it was leaking grease. Im thinking the RF one will be next. It's dry but the car did get slammed into a mud hole and that's when it started so im thinking the other one may be bad but no visible damage. Im also curious if motor mounts can do this. I've got a set of megan mounts coming. I know i need them because sometimes the car bucks when you're accelerating and let off the gas to shift gears and sometimes shakes bad after letting out the clutch. It'll also bog down and shake badly when you let off the gas while shifting gears The engine will shift back to it's resting position. Any other ideas?

It seems my car was meant for a frankenmotor. EJ22 stock with 5-speed awd tranny. if i was to do the frankenmotor i've got a few questions. 1: What kind of gains could I get from the build? I read up on the thread here and it said the motor was dyno'd at 125hp? My stock ej22 puts more than that. 2: Can i use a SOHC EJ25 bottom end? Is there much difference between phase1 ej25, dohc ej25 and WRX ej25? 3: Can i use my ECM seeing as i'll be running my stock heads which means stock intake and components? 4: It seems everyone says #1 thing is delta cams. Dont they re-grind your original cams, not sell you cams and dont you need a tune to compensate for them? SOHC EJ25s and EJ22s are a dime a dozen around here so acquiring these parts will be relatively cheap. On that i could just acquire the EJ25, get a 2.5 gasket kit and replace all the seals and such. My heads are re-done and my timing belt and components are new on my engine. It's been all redone exept the bottom end. I could swap all those components over. Seems the frankenmotor would be pretty cheap unless I was to tear into the bottom end. Or unless it needs an ecm tune which nobody around here does that.

I've been doing alot of reserarch lately. My friends are talking me into keeping my 95 impreza instead of trading up to a WRX. Originally i wanted to build a 22t but that's pretty expensive. Then i got the idea of the 2.5. I know late 90s they made a 2.5RS for my body style. I'd like to put lightweight, forged and balanced internals so i can have a quick, high rev, high compression NA engine that i can rev all day without issues. Im curious how the block holds up besides buying a 257 WRX block. Then im looking at a $1200 block again. I know there's alot of 2.5 SOHC foresters around here in the junkyards so getting a phase1 would be easy. Or should I hold off for a DOHC 2.5? I intend to have a machine shop work on the block and heads due to h/g issues and run head studs and try to find a stronger h/g. Has anyone seen this done in the gc impreza? (that didnt come with it) What would be involved in the swap besides the ecm, harness and engine? Links to guides would be helpful also if anyone knows any.

Could be. Weve seen a few new cars with alignment problems. Mostly steering wheel off center. However my dealer is in the center of a busy city so getting on the highway takes about 15 mins. Not too many customers even drive on the hwy here.

It all depends on how long the car sat at the dealer. Manufacturers set the tire psi at 45 from the factory but the pdi process forces you to set them at 35 like the door says which causes flat spots sitting on the dealer lot. I always leave them over 40 til a customer buys the car. If ur tires were under 40 and it sat for a month or so your tires are flat spotted and theyll straighten out. As for oem tires lasting 27k u did good. Oem tires are made to meet whatever cost the manufacturer choses so theyre much cheaper than over the counter tires.

This happened to my 95 impreza after i smashed the front end into a mud hole. My LF control arm rear bushing is leaking grease now. Pops whenever i accelerate. Check those bushings. Theyre servicable seperate from the arm on older subys

If you want to bandaid it lucas makes good tranny addatives. Idk if they have a specifically m/t oil or if you could put 1/2 qt of the at addative. Its super thick. U gota squeeze it out of the bottle so even if its for at it wont be too thin. Worth trying. Id look at their site for a mt one

Does the aftermarket world make a stronger one? seeing as the wrx has been around awhile in the tuner world i think somebody would make an alternative. And would there be any way to prevent future problems like using head studs or something like that?

95 impreza 2.2

That makes me realize how reliable my car is seeing as ive done everything to it. But i was looking into the mid 2000 range not so much the 95-03 era.

Ive looked into all the engine upgrades for my impreza and it seems itll cost the same to upgrade my drivetrain as it would to buy a nice used car. First of the year i want to sell my impreza and put down a nice down payment for a used car. Id like to get a wrx or baja turbo (go ahead and judge me but i like them) im curious what i should look for as far as problems? Ive heard the turbos arent as prone to headgasket failure. Any input is appreciated.

seems like i'll be sticking to a GC8 single turbo model. However can the LHD parts be used on a turbo crossmember? It looks like the non turbo member has the same holes on both sides for the intermediate shaft and the pressure lines so curious if the turbo is the same. It's looking like if i were to do it just get a GC8 front clip

Well im considering swapping an EJ20T into the impreza in the next year or so. The 22 just isnt fast enough for me. I know the trannies for these cars are the same exept the turbo has a hydraulic clutch. Im curious if the cable clutch tranny will work without any issues? If so i can just get the engine and harness/ecu. If not i'll need to do a whole RHD conversion to accomidate the clutch master cylinder. There's no room for it behind the strut tower on the LH side without modifications. My other issue is finding a turbo crossmember (if i dont do a GC8 front clip) Are there any non JDM cars that have a crossmember that'll work?

It's been awhile since i did my 5-speed swap and it's still holding up 2k miles later no CEL or issues. I've noticed my mounts are s**t tho since when i push in the clutch it tries to pop out of gear and the engine shakes alot. Also when you let off the gas and push in the clutch the engine shifts alot so im sure the mounts are soft. My post tho is to update on cruise control after doing this swap. I dont know why i didnt try this afterwards but i was informed you'd need a m/t cruise box. Well today i was bored and plugged mine back in and cut the #9 and 20 wires to the inhibitor and tada the cruise works like a charm. So an update for anyone who does this swap just try your cruise see if it works. I have yet to wire in my clutch switch to #9 and 20 but i like the rev-match when i shift down (the cruise doesnt disengage when i push in the clutch to downshift so it revs up to match the down-shift) great for cruising 35-50 range. Everything else for the cruise works as it should with no issues.

It doesnt seem to make much difference. The main difference is m/t wont have cooler lines. However most aftermarket sources produce one item to save money. If m/t doesnt have something a/t does they make the a/t one for both models and u dont use what u dont need i.e. the cooler. I have an auto radiator in my m/t 95 and have no issues from it.

Sounds like a problem with the pressure plate not wanting to compress like maybe a bent fin. Best way to know for sure is to watch under the hood and see what the slave does. Could be the slave cylinder or master cylinder pistons have seized up. Itd be easier to fix the hydraulic circuit than tear the clutch apart.

So for about 750 more i should just go with a single turbo GC8 front clip. It'll have all the stock piping, GC8 hood with intercooler scoop and front bumper along with all body mounting parts needed and it's RHD so i could swap it to RHD along with pedals and parts needed to convert to hydraulic clutch. Itll also have the brembo brake upgrade. Just the bumper and hood alone are worth over $1000. Plus the twin turbo only puts out about 25-35 hp more than the single and im not making a full blown race car just something fun i can beat around in.