Recian

I'm looking to swap in the twin turbo ej20 into my impreza. I know the GC8 (jdm version) had a EJ20T so i know putting it in wont be an issue but has anyone seen the twin turbo from the legacy GT put into these cars? what will need to be done besides swapping the engine harness and ecm? I've heard something about clearance issues in the LHD models. I know the trans that came with these cars is the same so it's just going to be a yank the engine and slip it back into my existing trans so i dont have to try to swap pedals and such for hydraulic clutch.

My tank cracked on mine and i bought a junkyard one for $25. Its been the best 20 bucks ive spent on the car. And its keeping my car completely oem with no aftermarket replacement parts. The car was holding coolant and had no mixture of fluids. They do tend to fail with age but subarus arent too notorious for it. All junkyard radiators ive seen look pretty good

Yea that seems to be an issue with automatics. Mine had it too b4 i converted to 5speed. I have a bad axle too. If tune up doesnt fix it id consider getting a set of axles. They usually last alot longer than aftermarket so you should go subaru. Also aftermarkets tend to cause alot of problems from what ive seen

I didnt think about that. Being a 95 ur probably due to go to the auto store and pick up 7 ft of vacuum hose and redo all your lines. That would probably take care of it.

Then a question to ask is are the turbo HG the same pattern as NA? If so throw some turbo gaskets up there.

yep that's it. I got mine from subaru for about $94. That was OTC cost not employee discount or anything like that.

the sensor makes a ground circuit to the ECM. If the sensor goes bad it'll provide an open circuit internally even tho it will sometimes look ok and cause the code. You probably wont notice any drivability issues but you'll notice an improvement after it's replaced. For the price difference i recommend going with OEM this time. For me it was only a $40 difference roughly.

No relation. 107 is your map sensor which i cant remember if this model its part of the maf sensor or its under the intake. The fuel gauge issue you had mine had the same issue. It seems in the 90s suby shared clusters with nissan who in that era had faulty ground screws on their clusters. Remove the cluster and tighten your 3 gauge screws. I went through alot of sending units and wire tracing to learn this.

The newer cars use an "Air flow ratio" sensor not an O2. They use 02s behind the cats usually but a/f ratio's in front for more accurate management. They run off a 2-5v referrence instead of 0.0-0.9v. They run off dual frequencies also so theyre harder to trick.

the pics one is b4 i removed the bumper to see the damage. I couldnt upload the pic of the before. It was in much better shape b4. lol I've been driving it with the messed up support but i dont trust the latch since the hood sticks up 1.5" over the fenders. After i fix it i'll still take it off road but i will be avoiding the deep trails. I have to admit my buddy with the kia had a 4 banger S10 that he demolished in that hole about 6 months ago. It totalled his truck, bent the frame. My subaru hit it and crawled out the hole and asked for more.

Today i wanted to go to the beach and have some fun. Some of my friends wanted to put down the subaru. So after putting down his kia at a race we went to the beach down the dirt trails. I think i made him s**t his pants as the subaru is a different animal off the road than on it. After i gained their respect i managed to find a hole i wasnt paying attention to and slammed the subaru into it. It stopped but didnt get stuck. Drove right out but the damage was pretty bad. She ran and drove no problem. Didnt damage any vehicle systems. I'm impressed the car hit the hole and the rear wheels came off the ground it stopped so fast but she didnt groan just took off in first and crawled out of the mud hole no problems. Here's some after pics.

I've considered doing a frankenmotor or a EJ20 turbo swap in the impreza now that i've got it a m/t vehicle. I'm considering this http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-EJ20TT-TWIN-TURBO-2-0L-DOHC-LEGACY-GT-BG5-96-98-ENGINE-5-speed-transmission-/110847902403?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19cf0cc2c3&vxp=mtr Only issues it seems to have is i'll have to find a way to convert cable to hydraulic clutch. It also seems they have the same trans so i could possibly use the cable clutch/trans and just bolt up the engine and keep the tranny as a spare. It has an ecm and harness but looks like the ecm harness was cut so i'd have to modify my existing harness to make it work. I'd also have to get a 97+ GS hood with scoops for intercooler. I've also considered a complete overhaul http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-STI-EJ20-Turbo-Engine-Front-Clip-Impreza-WRX-GF8-EJ20-T-Version-5-GC8-/180880113117?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1d4b7ddd&vxp=mtr This would give me big brake upgrade, RHD, EJ20T with legit JDM body panels and everything.

Thats neat how subaru designed theirs. Its identical to the nissan just the chains are designed differently. The subaru chain is twice as big as a nissan one. Ive had them apart and the nissan ones are about 1" Wide and its plates linked together more like a metal belt than an actual chain. The subaru one looks like a super beefy transfer case chain.

To me it seems like ignition problems. Fuel delivery is possible but the starting back. Up kinda throws me. Id look at the plugs. They will tell you by color whats missing. Fouled black color with gas means ignition. If theyre nice and white theyre just old. Lack of fuel is hard to tell since it wont leave a trace. At 100k its about time for a tune up. Also it may seem like a stretch but check your engine ground. It bolts to the firewall and to the starter. Its the ecm ground and if it is loose it could cause the ecm to shut down. Also check the body grounds on the strut towers and by the battery.

Thats all it is. At nissan we get customers weekly saying their cvt is making noises. Generally its normal. Theyre like abs they make alot of funny noises but as long as mpg and drivability are high then theres no reason to worry. Its a big difference going from auto to cvt. Ive got used to it over the years.

Yea nissan cvt is like an overisze transfer case. But its a transaxle for transverse mount setup. Subaru has always had a straight transmission with diff up front. Are they changing it up in 2012?

I hope subaru didnt get the cvt from nissan. I know they share alot of things. Nissan cvts are junk. Its sad since nissan started and claimed the cvt market since 03

I figure its time to post a one post complete how to guide on converting to a 5 speed for those of us with consistant a/t issues. So here goes Late last night i finished my 5 speed swap in my 95 impreza. Ive been driving it all day with no hitches exept the cel will come on occasionally for the NPS if i drive it more than 15 miles at a time. So far heres what had to be done from start to finish. Note this is for an impreza. From what research i did leggy wiring is a bit more complex and the cars wheelbase is a bit longer but its the same. First: acquire parts. I went with junkyard parts to save money i did the u pull it. If you do this take pics of the car's VIN to get parts and pics of the clutch mechanism so you know where it all goes. Its kinda complex with the hill brake. Trans, crossmember, shifter assy and rods, pedal assy, hill brake & lines, m/t starter,upper mount, speedo and clutch cable. Total cost: 125. I got this cheap since i did a 50 for all you can carry sale and carried my trans. This isnt recommended. Im a big guy and hurt myself doing it but it was worth the money i saved. With all needed parts in hand i ordered parts from subaru. Subaru parts: all shifter bushings and rods. Shifter elbow and pin, shifter spring, flywheel and pressure plate bolts brake switch (ill explain this later)and oem shift boot (this fits in your oem center console trim with no mods) total cost:180 I hate having to backtrack so i bought a new clutch and flywheel. F1 racing clutch kit and oem style exedy flywheel. Total cost: 225 Last but not least the auto trans is 2 and 11/16" shorter. Your prop shaft's short shaft will need to be extended and rebalanced. That cost me 75 At this point were at total cost of $600 roughly. Reallistically youll probably spend around 700 after misc parts and such. Lets get to work with parts in hand. Youll need a wiring diagram too. This job can be done in a weekend if youve got parts in hand. Step1 You should know how to r/i the trans. Its pretty simple. Remove everything down to bare back of the block. I recommend doing your rear main and oil separator at this time. Theyre probablg leaking if you havent done them before. Now change your shift bushings. You wont be able to once theyre in the car. Also make sure on used m/t that the dowel pins are out. I had a dowel in and fought for an hour before i realized it. Now remove your a/t shift selector. It WILL get in ur way if not removed. Cut its connector as you wont need it. Cut the key release switch wires and short them together so key will come out. Remove 6 screws. Theyll be reused for the m/t boot. Now simple put the m/t in. When you get it sitting on the pins i find it easier to have a helper turn the crank as you push the trans. And grease up the shaft too and it should slip right in. Once all that is back together now the more complex stuff. Bolt up and hook up the linkages. Make sure youve got all gears. Step2 pedals I found this easier to remove the tcm and ccm to gain access. 4 bolts hold it in and a pin holds the master cylinder to the pedal. Pop all that out. Now we get to y u need a new brake switch cuz the one you have and the used one will crumble as old plastic does. Replace it while your assy is out. While its out pop the blank out of the firewall and run your clutch cable through. Now put your pedals in. Leave this torn apart for now until youre done wiring. Step3 (optional) hill brake This isnt mandatory but its a factory option and i LOVE it. Hill brake bolts under master cyl. You need one line from master to hill brake, from hill brake to LF caliper and from hill brake to proportioning valve (on pass. Side strut tower) once all these are hooked up route its cable under the fuel rail and intake and to the clutch fork as it was on the doner car. Adjust til tight. At this point adjust your clutch cable and test it too. After all is said and done bleed the brakes not just at each caliper but at each line FIRST starting with master and working your way away from it. Step4 wiring At this point you should be mechanically sound. If you skipped step3 now install and adjust clutch cable. Now to make the car run you need to do 3 things. To make it perfect theres 5 things You need to: remove ecm on pass floor panel. 1. Ground terminal 50 of the ecm. Look at your diagram 49 should be to tcm only. Well you now have no tcm. Cut 49 and put that terminal into 50 carefully not to damage the ecm connector. ecm now knows its a manual 2. Run wires across 11 and 12 of the inhibitor connector (i cut the inhibitor harness and plugged that into my 12 pin connector and ran wires inside) for ease you can use the clutch switch to connect that circuit or use switch to ground a relay that closes the circuit. Im going to install a relay eventually to take load off the switch. Now the car will start 3. I mentioned this b4. Cut the switch at the a/t shift selector and short them so key can come out. 4. NPS. Run one wire of the nps (on trans) to 74 at the ecm and the other to ground 5. Rev lights. Run the other switch on the trans to inhibitor connector 9 and 10 and now youve got backup lights. Add all necessary fluids and enjoy. M/t awd takes 4.2 qts of gear oil. The impreza doesnt seem to have the high idle until it learns its a m/t as is seen in other reviews. Its like my car was born to be a manual.

now that i've done a 5 speed swap i've considered buying that exact set. I know my car could use a set of mounts. I'd love to hear how they work out and i've always liked M/R's stuff. The fact that megan cant spell "System" right is priceless tho.

yeah i could pick up a shaft from a u-pull it for bout $45 but it wouldnt be worth it with the time spent removing the shaft, the fact that i'd have to give up my current shaft which is immaculate. My whole undercarriage is very clean since the car is low mileage and garage kept. Also There are no prop shafts within 100 miles of me since i've got the only 5-speed awd tranny in the area and the prop shaft that car had was rusted in half almost and it's a leggy so it would be different. I figure spending that little bit to extend my existing shaft was reasonable. I've contemplated down the road getting a driveshaft shop one piece aluminum 3" shaft. It's half the weight, holds up to 650hp and 155mph but since the front drive axles wont be any lighter i dont see what effect reducing weight on the rear shaft will do as theyre linked together.

im confused. I'm trying to figure out how youre spinning the input shaft with it still in the car. You say you took the boot off the rear so i assume youre talking about the boot in the car? If it's out of the car the linkage is very sensitive to being in neutral and hard to take out of gear without pushing it into the next gear by mistake. If it's in the car hell just finish putting it together fill er up and see if it drives ok. If input is linked to the stub axles then it's in gear. If the trans was foced to the engine on install it usually damages the clutch disc. The trannies are tough enough that little bit wouldnt hurt the trans, it'd damage the clutch components first.

Ive considered putting wagon back seats in my car for the flip down ability and match the fronts. I just havent taken the time. Rear of the legacy and impreza are the same but sidewells are a bit different from what ive seen.

yeah i've got a 93 leggy 5-speed trans and my car was a 95 impreza auto awd. Both have 4.111s. I took my existing shaft since it looked so good, bolted it back in to find a length difference of 2 11/16" I took this to a local welding shop and for $75 they'll extend and balance the shaft. I'll pick it up at lunchtime on friday and put it in the car that evening.

Im curious now because you have a misfire code and no actual misfire based on your previous posts. It would seem that if you had any faults intermittent or not that you would experience a misfire conscern coupled with the code. Only time ive seen a misfire code with no miss was a coil problem on a ford. HOWEVER if im not mistaken misfires are judged by the ecu looking at the knock sensor to find knock and label the adjascent cylinder as missing. An overheated ej will melt a knock sensor quick. Mine did on my ej22.

Yea these will be the same. Its a safety in all airbag systems. The connectors are protected too so you shouldnt hurt the air bag module. If the wheel is tight just grab it at 3 and 9 o clock and push left to right and rock it and itll come off. Not too difficult.