Recian

also ontop of the thermostat housing and w/p dont rule out the tiny about 3" elbow hose attatched to the w/p. Seeing as these commonly leak s**t tons of oil and the engines end up turning black (like mine was and most I see around this generation) that oil soaks into the rubber hoses and turns them to mush. I had to replace lower radiator hose and that formed elbow due to that issue when i bought my car due to the mass amount of oil that was all over it.

There used to be one down town too and its been bought out unfortunately. I've noticed the best MPG and pep with HESS gas. I havent seen any 10% ethanol labels on their pumps in NB. Now jacksonville where i work their pumps say "May contain up to 10% ethanol" I go to shell next to my house only because its easy to get in and out of seeing as i have no reverse. Plus the closest hess is down hwy 70 about 4 miles or across the river and i dont like driving more than i have to. I love driving my suby but even tho it gets good mpg and only holds 12 gallons i hate filling it up '

it does sound like a leaking injector. It's easy to pull them off and turn the key on and monitor the fuel rail at the base while the car isnt running. Should be 0 gas coming out with fuel pressure from the key being on. Also dont rule out a MAF sensor. I've seen them cause super lean/rich conditions and codes even tho everything was running perfectly fine with no MAF codes. They will read within the MAF's range but the Grams/second arent right for the given conditions, calculated by idle speed, throttle response, manifold pressure, intake temp and ambient temp. If anything is mis-calculated by the MAF nothing will work right and it could go into a default full rich condition to keep the car running but because they didnt have rationality codes back then it wont throw a MAF fault code since it's within range. Happens to nissan's frequently and they run the same MAFs suby's do. Thinking about it they use alot of the same electric sensors.

that's what i was thinking. It does go up to about 750 or so.

yeah NC. Here we've got the highest price gas in NC. 3.98 for 87 with 99.9% of stations running the 10% ethanol rule and pushing for 15% which im trying to fight tooth and nail.

i managed to find some cloth seats. No leather seats in any yards but they are heated and have an up/down adjustment. They were from a 97 legacy outback which seemed to have every option exept leather. I snagged the radio too, it looked brand new and had radio band. It works beutifully and the screen is perfect. I snagged the heater switches too and put them in another center console i found with an armrest. The wife seems to enjoy working on this car as much as i do she just isnt that mechanically inclined so I let her go at it while I took pics and did the heavy lifting. Here's what we had. Btw no swap of the seat belt was necessary. My original buckle worked with the leggie receivers. I swapped the leggie retractors anyway because they retracted good and mine were getting weak. Before: Ugly grey seats and no armrest Out with the old in with the new and bam new more comfy seats with heater, up/down leveler and arch support

Could be it. My oem tire size is 14. Ive got 15s but theyre 60 series. I believe original is 70 series in which case the overall diameter would be about the same. Plus ive noticed my hyundai gets over 33 now so it could be the early gas blend switch since weve been in the 80s since february

Yea its auto. Ive got original axles. So theyre 17 years and 130k miles. Theyre about gone. It does go away as soon as u shift into neutral or let off the brake. But are subaru oem axles 7x aftermarket price? New aftermarket is 65. I know most dealers charge 500+ for an axle you can get for 110 at the auto store.

On my impreza i keep getting a harsh vibration in drive holding the brake at idle. Only feel it in the floor and pedals. Nothing else. Its worse on hills. I dont see what effect that has tho. Im going to check all my vacuum hoses tomorrow. And motor mounts. My idle is around 600.

But will they fit?

Last week my 95 impreza 2.2 auto awd averaged 27. This week im averaging around 28. Granted my awd clutches and reverse went out and ive gota go easy on first gear so ive had the 2wd fuse in to stop torque bind. Idk if that will effect mpg? It definately lost handling without awd. Even before that i could drive it around with torque bind and still get over 25

But that would be an interference motor at that point correct? Also another curve ball would it be better to put dished pistons and lower compression and turbo that or keep a high compression all motor? I like all motor. Im curious about superchargers since my old v6 had one. Theres plenty of room under the hood as low as the engine is.

That was actually my intention, to snag a EJ25 DOHC bottom end and put my EJ22 heads on it. The engine i've got a chance to get idk the history on the car but all it says is "Bad trans" on the window so i assume it was running ok. Personally i've always liked SOHC vs DOHC for belt driven engines. When it comes to timing chain engines i'll take DOHC all day. I think my 22 was oveheated before I bought it. Water pump was seized and knock sensor was melted. That's why i put head gaskets and redid the headds and did all new timing set on it when I bought it. So far i've got 500 miles and havent burned a drop of oil. Leaked some from the rear head seals which i forgot to replace while i had them off tho.

legacy and impreza seats both will fit? even tho the legacy ones are bigger

any play in that wheel could cause noise in the rear end, I'd be very conscerned about any side to side play in the wheel. Is it left to right or up and down?

I've noticed my impreza always feels like im going to slide into the steering wheel. Got to looking and the foam is separating by the left front of the coushin. You can pull the coushin up with no problems. I've seen this on all other junkyard impreza's my era exept a late 90s outback wagon that had black interior with fancy zig-zag in-lays in the fabric. Im thinking of converting to that interior, those seats are super clean. But would legacy seats fit maybe? from the same mid to late 90s generation. The yard i go to has a 97 impeza and legacy model outback wagons. The legacy seats are much more comfy but idk if they'll fit the impreza seeing as theyre a bit bigger. Im by no means a small person and drive 40 miles 1-way to work so comfort is key.

I've got a 95 impreza awd. It has the 2.2 EJ22 non interference engine. I've seen alot of threads on the EJ22 phase1/2 vs EJ25 DOHC and SOHC. Im curious which vehicles have which engines and which ones are good and arent good. I know the first generation of the EJ22 is the strongest one but i like the thought of the EJ25 with SOHC heads. Are these prone to head gasket issues? if not is it just the DOHC heads that cause problems or the block? or faulty dohc gaskets? Being this is my first subaru and this brand has always fascinated me i'd just like to learn a bit about the 90s engines.

Does it have drums or is it a LX? Ive seen the same problem on some cars with rear drums. I think something inside the drum was bent. Id take the drums off and inspect the components. Compare left to right.

I dont think this one would tank. Its a crossover style vehicle and thats the seller now. Everyone wants a crossover. Thats why nissan has 4 of them each with a different engine. I bet with that clearance that will be fun in the dirt. So the real question boxer diesel or inline diesel?

i was just going to leave the heads in the yard and carry the bottom end out fully assembled. What mods would need to be done to make the DOHC block work with SOHC heads tho? or is it plug and play pretty much? The subaru guys i bought the car from said theyre like lego's, everything is just plug & play for the most part

That bolt is fine. That's just how theyre cast. Mine is the same way. You can see it's been grinded on the end to remove the rough edges when it was made.

i've always been taught by nissan and mitsubishi that when installing a freshly rebuilt or new motor out of the crate to unplug the injectors or pull the fuel fuse and crank it over for 30 secs to a minute and that will do a fine job of priming the engine. That doesnt apply to old style external pumps which needed wheel bearing grease packed into them or 20W50 oil to prime them. Learned that the hard way on an old Nissan pickup with a KA24

the 2.5 i saw was in a 98 legacy outback wagon.. i think. It had a V vin. I got my front bumper from a impreza outback wagon and it had a 2.5. It was the same body as my impreza so 94-98 era. The legacy block will cost me $50 since it's $50 at the yard for everything you can carry out and i can carry a bare block. the impreza 2.5 will cost me about $200 since it's classified as an engine. so the real question is there any other identification other than the EJ25 stamp on the block to isolate the 2?

just put some lowering springs on the front to compensate and slam it to the ground lol

Dont look on the block look on the tube that runs from side to side on the block underneath the intake. That's where the 2 sensors are. with the IAC out you should be able to at least see them.