Recian

Sounds about right everything on this car is like a nissan. 10 12 and 14. Also as to how this effects starting: if it thinks the car is super cold when its not itll richen it and flood the motor. Vice versa is also true. It could lean it when its cold and keep it from starting or staying running. Giving it gas adds air to compensate for the over rich condition.

Sounds to me like a bad syncronizer. First thing id check tho is fluid level since u should have drained it to drop trans. Even if u didnt some should have come out the tail shaft. If not maybe it was low to begin with. Simple stuff first.

im kind of curious to see how this works out. I've got the chance to snag a EJ25 from a late 90s outback for cheap and i was intending to do this to it and drop in my impreza. The black block looks pretty sweet tho

Ive already ordered the t/c seal just so it wont leak. Dont wana yank a tranny twice. I dont see any oil but i think ill do the rear main while its out too. At least ive got some help on this issue and learned something. Nasioc was no help

If this one goes out i guess ill do the same thing or overhaul my original trans. Not sure yet. Either way i still like this car more than any others ive owned. My first subaru.

Yea i used some spare parts i had and did that too. Doesnt seem to help much besides putting the filter at an open spot where it could suck in water coming up between the frame and valve cover. Maybe i can build a box for that

That's my plan. I drove the car the trans came out of so i know it's good. Seems these trans have issues so idk how long that one will last.

Exactly. Ontop of that when shifting into drive theres a delay. Ive got a spare tranny im going to drop in thats good. Just gota make it 2 weeks til i have the time seeing this is my daily.

If ur getting 24 in a hilly area then yea that does sound good. Where im at its flat thats probably why i get a bit more. Plus in town isnt very bad stop and go usually i drive hwy back roads to work so i get around 27. The water bottle trick i was taught by nissan tech line. U wouldnt believe how many cars i get at work with over 10% ethanol that cause them to run like s**t. Theyre trying to force 15%. That much will eat your engine alive from the inside out.

I have no reverse at all and first takes a little while to engage when you first shift into drive. I know my shift solenoid3 is bad. It failed the resistance check at 14 ohms. Im not sure if it controls reverse or not.

I can find the legacy one id just have to add a 1" fitting for idle controller. Is it really worth $125 tho? I cant find cat backs either. May have to build a bigger exhaust. It looks like the 2000+ impreza headers will fit at least.

Installed 30A fuse. Success! No more binding. Its wierd tho the tires dont skip on wet roads or dirt. Ive heard they scrub the tires like a welded diff when you have this problem but at least i know the transmission swap is going to happen now instead of just solenoids to fix my reverse. Good thing is without the binding i can see my first gear is about to go too.

Im curiuos if anyone here has come across a legitimate resource for short ram intakes for the 90s EJ22s? I can make one but the only issue is i dont have any tubes that'll compensate for the 1" tube that's hooked to the idle valve. I cant put a filter on it since it receives air from behind the MAF. I've found one on ebay but it doesnt show the large tube for the idle valve.

Then i'd check the knock sensor and try different gas stations. My sensor was melted when I bought my car so while I had my heads off i replaced it with a OEM one. Cost me $95 but i have 0 knock/spark on 87. I hear they cause alot of issues and fail often on 90s model suby's. Lots of stations now use so much ethanol or alcahol past the 10% youre supposed to be informed of.. My 89 buick I had before my impreza was rated at 18city 28hwy. I NEVER got 28 hwy, only about 25 and averaged 20. since the gas now is so watered down with alcahol or ethanol cars rarely get the MPG posted on the stickers anymore, at least older cars. Their computers cant compensate for the unburnable substance. In a way it's like running with EGR opened all the time. It's not as bad where im at but I try to use HESS or local mom and pop type stations. Those usually have less ethanol. Easy way to check your fuel. Pull the line off and turn the car on and put some fuel into a 20oz drink bottle. Dont fill past 1/3 way. Mark where the fuel was and add about 1-2 oz of water then mark it again. Then shake, but dont get too aggressive or it will explode. Then let it sit a few mins. The water will mix with the alcahol or in some cases water then sink to the bottom. if there's a noticable difference between the new amount and the lines you marked (say your marks were 1/4" apart and there's 1" or so at the bottom then that's the issue.

3-4 use the same coil if im not mistaken. each coil pack has 2 humps so i can assume 2 coils. One for 1-2 and the other for 3-4. It's possible the coil inside the pack has failed? I've seen coils seem to do fine they just dont put out enough voltage so at idle they work great but when revved the exess rpm and pressure blows out the weak spark since the coil cant put out enough spark. So many of these cars use the same pack they should be easy to snag at a local junkyard for cheap just for testing purposes. That would explain the misfire but the popping im not sure of unless the coil has come apart and is sparking inside the housing? far fetched theory but possible.

Actually that does seem a bit low. My 95 auto awd 2.2 gets mid to upper 20s around town and my tranny is going out. Dont forget the basics, fuel/air filters, plugs/wires. Check all vacuum hoses for cracks, any intake leaks will trick the car and make it burn more fuel. Is the car running any more sluggish than usual? This could be due to dirty MAF or t-body, restricted exhaust like a collapsed cat. Also when was the last time you changed the trans fluid? the automatic trans can seriously hinder power put to the ground and reduce economy if its fluid doesnt function properly. Hydraulic fluid is sensitive and will break down with time and should be changed every few years even if you dont hit 30k miles.

Ive been having this issue with my 2.2 awd auto for awhile but never worried since i've got a spare trans for it. My spare has no torque converter and i wanted to see what this problem would be before i reuse my torque converter and it ends up having the same problem. Here goes: When taking off from a stop it does fine. When taking off like getting onto the highway taking a 90 degree turn it'll buck and jerk almost like a misfire. It gets that put-put-put kind of feeling. It only does this when turning. It doesnt do it on straights or when putting it in drive, holding the brake and revving. I recently replaced all filters, plugs/wires, timing belt, etc so I know the engine is strong. The thing that worries me most is it does it on decel too. Right before you get to a stop under 10mph it'll do it too. It's not quite a "i didnt push in the clutch" kind of jerking it literally feels like a misfire but i know it isnt. I think it's either a torque converter locking up or first gear clutches going out. I noticed at times when you crank it up and put it in drive it takes a few secs to engage, even if the vehicle is warm it'll do it. Im kinda stumped here. I dont wana waste the money on a torque converter if I dont need it. Plus the only type I need, the one with teeth on the converter isnt available. I believe this is the one i've got. It's my daily so i cant just disassemble it and check everything.

just a heads up i've noticed the impreza's with the older type cluster (94-97)had a cluster issue that would cause this. The 3 screws on the back would loosen up and cause it to stick on E. I went through a couple sending units and junkyard clusters til i figured this out lol