Recian

They should. Ive got 98 outback heated seats in my 95 impreza. Seems all subaru seats in the 90 era are the same bolt pattern

I'm just about done with my 5-speed swap. All that's left is to install my drive shaft and exhaust and finish up my wiring. I went to put in my auto drive shaft and it's 2 11/32" too short. Im wondering what models would be compatable? If Leggy and impreza in the 90s had the same drive shafts or i should look for a drive shaft shop to extend my existing shaft. The shafts i've found used seem to be longer past the center support bearing and the 2" i need is before the support bearing. The car i got my swap from is gone now and the drive shaft i removed from it (93 leggy) had the same length front shaft as my car and it was rusted beyond being safe. My shaft looks like new and even still has the subaru sticker on it.

If youre talking about the roll pin that holds the shift linkage to the shifting shaft that comes out of the trans.. i just ordered one with no problem from my local dealer. Pn:633046020. In fact ive got the old one its just the trans is so rusty i didnt wana chance it seizing reinstalling it

Update as of this time. I've got my new clutch kit and my last suby parts should be coming from the dealer monday. I started the wiring. So far the weather hasnt let me do much but i've got the clutch switch tied into the inhibitor connector. Note here the inhibitor harness is white wrapped. It's long enough to be routed across the firewall and put through a grommet about 3" from the booster. Cut a hole and run it through. The white harness should reach into the car so it'll look somewhat factory. Someone ran fog light harness through that grommet on my car so i went ahead and used it lol. At this time i'm looking into my check connector. As another note the 1.8L and 2.2L connector terminals are NOT the same. I did some research and turns out terminal 49 is a straight wire from ecm to tcm nothing more. So im gona pull that terminal out, put it into #50 and ground it.

Do you have a guide to doing that? or is it as simple as just pulling a VSS and cluster from a newer car and running a couple wires?

Got it. 50 to ground for identifier. 78 to NPS. Gets confusing going between years, seems they changed up their wiring alot between models even between the outbacks and regular models.

All the guides ive found were on legacy 2.2s and the ecm was number 81. Which is also a blank in the impreza 2.2 ecm. They seem to be pinned similar with minor differences

Thats what i needed to know. Gota have a m/t one for my swap

Im going to try to save my cruise on my swap. Will any m/t module work? If i get one from a legacy or 1.8 impreza as long as it's m/t? or is it specific?

Dont rule out the oil separator in the bellhousing. If the trans hasnt been out its leaking. Itll collect in the frame and eventually in the steering rack. The silicone sealer on those will turn to dust after almost 20 years. I thought i had a rear main leak but it was just the oil separator. The silicone was so weak i rubbed it off by hand and applied new to a clean shiny surface.

I got my pedals and hill brake in last night. Took a few hours. Anyone before reaching this point i have advice. Order a new brake switch ahead of time if yours hasnt been replaced b4. Bot mine and my junkyard one shattered as soon as i went to plug them in. They turned to dust in my hand. Also remove the computers. Its possible to swap without doing so but its much easier. I learned the hard way. Pedals PITA FACTOR: 6 this is due mostly to the awkward angles youll have to bend to put these in and line up the brake master cylinder pin while aligning the clutch cable. Hill brake PITA FACTOR: 7 i give this rating only due to the brake's cable. Routing it the original route under the intake can prove tricky without some long skinny pliers. Hill brake isnt a necessity. Since the car had it and im anal about the look of originality i took it. Along with that ull need 3 lines Master to hill brake Hill brake to LF wheel Hill brake to proportioning valve (RF strut tower)

Got it. i found another post on rs25.com about the wiring. Seems i have to: Ground to 81 NSS to 82 and ground its other wire to the trans case Loop the shift selector wires so key can come out RS to square i hibitor connector terminals 9 and 10 Clutch switch to inhibitor terminals 11 and 12 Unplug TCU Cruise seems simple too. Just wire clutch switch differently. Wiring shows at and mt being the same exept for the clutch cancel switch replacing the inhibitor 11 and 12. That should fix cruise too.

That works. So the m/t identifier. Is it a ground that must be removed or does it connect to something or is it blank? Ive got my diagrams to check. Ive got 6 grounds

Check the water pump. When i bought my 95 impreza ej22 it had a seized water pump causing the same problem. It would idle all day til u drive then itd overheat. This blew my head gaskets

Looked into it and it shows my 50 is blank. May have to install a terminal and ground it.

I ordered the linkage elbow, its retainer pin, and needed bolts today. Cost: ~$50. I was cutting my time so close i didnt bother with pics. Those would have been nice to have for the swap lol

Right i was going to wire up the clutch switch for starting. The neutral switch kinda confuses me tho. Its in the trans correct? My trans has 2 switches and one is reverse. And the neutral switch it hooks to ecm and creates a ground signal to the ecm when closed correct?

So i need to ground 78 to make it start and 50 to identify it as m/t then? It looks like the starting system between the 2 is complex. Gona need to put a relay in or jump 12 and 11 of the inhibitor switch connector for now. Ill have to get more detailed tonight since i left my wiring diagrams at home. I think 50 is used on my ecm tho. Gota see what it does. I know its not grounded.

For my 95 impreza it was already awd auto so i got a legacy m/t awd with the same 4.111 gears. The yard i got it from has a saturday sale. $50 for whatever you can carry across the scale. I left the shifter, crossmember and rods attatched to the tranny so they were free. The shifter joint grommet is toast so neutral is sloppy. Ill replace that. Also before getting started shift all its gears and check the clutch make sure all the components work. Mine went into all gears beutifully. The gear oil in it looked brand new despite the case's dirtyness. I snagged the pedal assy, speedo cable, clutch cable, hill brake, all brake lines for the front end, and starter and put those in my bag. I rented a lift for $25 and got under the rusty as hell car to get the trans out. It turns out my girl was too weak to assist carrying the tranny. And i forgot to grab the flywheel and pressure plate to flywheel bolts since i cut my time close fighting a rusty car. So my totals so far: 2 entrys: $100 1 lift: $25 Clutch kit F1 stage 1: $150 Flywheel new Exedy: $75 Total as of today:$350 Looking back if i had known she couldnt help i could have saved $40 seeing as i had to carry the tranny myself. It is possible to strap it to your shoulders and carry it at your weist but i only recommend a big guy do this. Im 6'1" 260 no small guy and it was tough for me to carry it solo. It weighs less than an automatic but not by much. If you pull parts take pics of the doners vin plate. Itll make getting subaru oem parts easier. Today ill call subaru and update on my missing bolts and shifter joint.

That sucks.. my ecm doesnt use 81 or 82. Theyre blanks. And ive only got a 95. Does ur cruise still work? Or any mods needed there. Looks like ive just gota wire in the clutch switch

I read the link you gave on the swap you followed and he says removing ground @ terminal 20 at the ECM is what tells the ECM it's a mt instead of at. Was your car the same way? Seeing as pin20 isnt used in my 95 impreza 2.2 ecm

So you grounded 81 and hooked one wire to 82 and grounded the second wire from the neutral switch? That worked correct?

Thats what i had planned to just plug it. Theres nowhere else the 4th master cylinder outlet could go. The circuit is closed with all 4 wheels hooked up. The one rear outlet on the master goes into the hill honder then out to the LF and over to the 4 lead splitter on the pass. Side

Ill do that. This may seem off topic but since ive been trying to swap mine to 5 speed theres a device in the brakes that runs to the release fork. I took it and all the brake lines but it seems theres only 3 outs on the master cylinder on the m/t and 4 outs on my auto master. After hooking it up the rear lower out is empty.

i know this post has pushed towards diff ratio tranmission issues but im curiuos. I think i know the answer but arent the flywheel bolts for the m/t longer than the flex plate bolts of the auto? When i got my trans swap i didnt have time to get the pressure plate or flywheel bolts due to them closing.