coolskaterkid

I ended up grabbing a distributor from a junk yard and it fired right up, thanks for the help

Ran great one day, parked overnight now it wont start. Not getting spark out of coil. Tested coil, is ok, so i put in a new ignition module, still nothing. One odd thing is after cranking i can turn the key almost to the off position and i get spark for a second, as the motor turns over on its own. It seems to me this would be the ignition switch, but is there any other tests i can do before going and buying parts

When mine went same deal as yours, i just went the the wrecking yard and got a whole motor and assembly, for around 15 bucks installed it pretty simply, and never had a problem again, i didnt look to much into fixing mine. Easier for me to just replace the whole track motor assembly

I have bled clutch slaves by opening the reservoir and then pumping the slave by hand pushing the air and fluid back into the reservoir.

I think they are referring to the small hose that comes off the side of the water pump and hooks to, i think the hard line for heat.

Yes for a water pump gasket, get the dealer or factory one that is rubber coated metal, the paper ones are not up to task, some say they rtv it.

More then likely The bearings in the pump are getting tired, and let the weep hole start leaking, i think u have to take center timing belt cover off, witch would mean the crank pulley and other covers, with more then likely no effect.

so getting the motor ready for its new home, pulled out of a good running 90 legacy.. i was changing valve cover gaskets, so i decided to tighten rocker arm caps, and one of the center bolts turned very easily and the head came right off. It felt like was already broken and i just twisted head off. What do i need to do to fix this. Its the center one on right side of pic.

I bought one from kragen orielys for about 100 bucks and they last around a year before springing a leak, so ive used the warranty a couple times, the latest one i got from them the atf, cooler connectors came out to far and i had to bend them to get the rad to sit in place, the metal connectors were hitting the frame rail, not really impressed.

Interesting you mention this. I got a new rebuilt autozone alt last year, and first drive it did the same thing, overcharged pusled the lights, and i got the battery and brake light while this happpend, it also burnt out quite a few of my dash lights, along with boiling my battery. So i exchanged it for another one, no more pulsing but when i turn the key on, i get the check engine light blinks with a relay clickling, all along i thought my ecu was going to crap, it has the hard cold starting also that you describe, will go get a subi alt from junkyard and see if my issues go away. Thanks

white - select monitor i dont use it on ej swaps into bugs

Also have a speedo cable i could yank out of a donor car, if it would help.

I have a 90 gauge cluster You can have for shipping has 224k miles on it, from an auto. hopfull y just the cable. good luck

It has a speed sensor in the gauge cluster, dont know wht its affecting the speedo, its partly controls the idle air control to let the ecu know car coming to a stop. check the speedo cable also.

Possible speed sensor issue, correct me if im wrong but in the older rigs speed sensor not working would shoot code for idle air control