Recian

Yea those 3v sensors are air flow ratio not o2 sensors. Theyre used pre cat in newer cars and theyre very expensive but not commonly failing either. If ur code number is for the rear sensor then it adds up

In situations like this I usually hook up my Modus to get a second opinion kinda. It never hurts with OBD data to use a second scanner if something seems out of the ordinary. If the ECM isnt even displaying O2S1 i'd think something isnt right in the ECM. If it cant even display or monitor B1S1 then it will say uh oh and throw a code but i'd rather say it's in the 02 sensor because even if the sensor was disconnected it'd show default of 0.30v or 0.00v in live data depending on the vehicle. Im looking at it on Shopkey atm but unfortunately you have an A/F sensor (air fuel ratio) which runs a 2.500v reference instead of 0.0-0.9v. Theyre much more complex and generally throw other codes like P0A instead of P01 My wiring diagram just shows 5 wires and doesnt give me the internals or dimentions so i cant tell u which terminals to check. Unfortunately a/f sensors are an expensive guess too. I can give you ECM terminals to check tho. If wiring is ok it's either a ecm or sensor. These terminals should have continuity when checked with a volt/ohm meter. 02 terminal: 1 (red)connects to ECM B135 terminal: 19 02 terminal: 2 (yellow/red)connects to 02S2 terminal:2 and Main relay terminal: 4 Main relay is behind LH side of dash with 6 terminal connector. 02 terminal: 3 (green) connects to ECM B135 terminal: 6 02 terminal: 4 (white) connects to ECM B135 terminal: 7 02 terminal: 5 (brown/black) connects to ECM B134 terminal: 22, 23 02 terminal: 6 (black) connects to ECM B135 terminal: 20 You shouldnt mistake 22/23 on B134 with 22/23 on B135 since it says 18/22/23 arent used on B135

looks like i just got lucky and got just that right year to get a matching 4.111 so i should just be thankful It's the only one within 100 miles from here

sometimes it's not worth the hastle to separate engines and trans because the guys will still give you dirty for blocks sometimes since aluminum blocks must have iron sleeves but not all of them know that.

maf cant be checked due to it's complex integrated circuits. however if you unplug it and start the car it goes into failsafe but that only works at idle to see if it's a problem. You cant rev it with it unplugged or it dies. However letting off gas causing a stall sounds lke fuel. My landlord's truck wouldnt start on her today and she had the same symptoms. Stalls when you dont give it gas. The injectors open at a higher pulse width at higher rpm allowing the lower fuel pressure to not be a problem because they open so fast the fuel can get into the cylinders. As i said about dry lines it's true it wont completely drain the lines but it will only leak down until the injectors drain the fuel system at the lowest possible PSI to keep it running then it dies. What i referred to by that would be the fact that the pump usually cant re-pressurize the system instanly. If it drops to say 25 while running and 35 at idle and if it goes under those conditions the car cant possibly run then what's the odds the pump can in it's 1-2 second prime time when he re-cranks can accomidate 10-20 psi through the entire (however many cubic centimeters long) section of fuel line it has to fill from back to front with fuel hence it would have a long crank time as it builds faster than the injectors releive pressure until it hits that 35 psi mark again.

i thought 96 was the last year of phase 1 when in 97 they went to interference motor?

i dont see why you couldnt see the front O2 in the data list unless he had an older scanner. There are resistance checks you can run for the sensor's heater and circuit to make sure it's within order and the plugs are easy to access.

i know a automatic awd trans weighs 197 lbs. I got dirty alum for it when i scrapped my old one. Got $37 for it I intend to do the same to my current auto that's crap once i convert to a 5-speed. Surprisingly 200 lbs.. it feels heavier than that tho.

it's good i didnt need the diff. Mine looks brand new now that i've cleaned it and changed it to royal purple oil. My car doesnt have a single spot of rust besides the hood thats wrinkled from a wreck b4 i bought it. You can see from the pic the terrible rust the doner had. The trans surprisingly was just oily. That's probably what saved it lol all the un-maintained engine leaks.

so the legacy auto's were 3.9 and the impreza 5-speeds were 3.9 also even if they were AWD? Im referring to the same era 94-99 impreza and 94-99 legacy. I know pre 94 legacy were different. the square body ones.

My car is a 95 impreza auto AWD 2.2 Doner was 93 legacy m/t AWD 2.2 Took this off the doner's rear diff. Mine i know is a 4.111

So all the awd are 4.11s? I know my impreza awd auto was and the legacy 5 speed awd i yanked today was 4.11

I know each head weighs about 20 lbs each. Ive had mine off. Long block with no accessories id bank around 120 max if the short block is 65

99% sure u fried ur maf sensor. Pull the air filter. If the box is damp u managed to get some water in the intake box in the fender. Yes its possible. Not easy but possible. Thats the only thing i like about maf cars is an anti engine blow up sensor when you suck in water maf sensors calculate load which if its even 1% out of spec ur car will lose power and economy.

Wow if thats the case ill go pull an ej25 block to do a frankenbuild soon lol

I would pull the plugs and check since theyre clean now. If one has fuel on it then youve got a leaky injector or faulty coil causing a misfire. Also does it run rough at idle? If so unplug the maf and see if it clears up. Mafs can cause it to richen too much.

That would make sense seeing as the 2wds were mainly 1.8s on the impreza which would be economy based so a 3.4 would be way better than a 4.11

I went to the yard today and got my 5-speed swap, all clutch components and brake lines, speedo/clutch cables, 5-speed awd trans and linkages. It was a fight from 8am to 2:30. They closed at 3 but I managed to get it. My bro couldnt go and the wife wasnt strong enough to help so I had to haul it across the scales by myself and it was heavier than I expected but I strapped some seatbelts to it and wrapped them around my shoulders and neck and managed it. Didnt have to pull the rear diff since it was a 4.111. This was the only car in the yard with it and it was rusty as hell which is what presented the issues. Doner was a 93 legacy. I was going to pull the diff since it was a legacy but I saw shiny and wiped off a subaru tag that said the p/n and "GEAR RATIO: 4.111" Im curious if the auto/manual crank bolts are different? the flex plate is thinner than the flywheel so i assume the m/t ones are longer. Any ideas? Tomorrow i'll begin tearing my car apart to do the swap seeing as with a f****d trans it isnt doing me any good to drive right now. I'll keep this thread updated with pics and such if anyone else is interested

That's without flywheel. Im talking the whole 9 yards $200. If i pull the old flywheel from the car it'll be either rusted or warped. It'll cost me $50 to machine it and it'll add extra weight to my carrying capacity. Remember it's what i can carry out not what i can pull. For $75 i'd rather just get a brand new flywheel plus try to get the flywheel bolts off in the junkyard with no air or electric tools lol I'm actually going for this: I've got one in my hyundai and it's a nice upgrade from OEM but still feels like OEM http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-RACING-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-95-01-SUBARU-IMPREZA-EJ18-1-8L-2-2L-1990-99-LEGACY-/120832975288?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item1c2234e1b8&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-LFW123-Flywheel-Flexplate-/170830305254?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item27c64797e6&vxp=mtr Im not sure if i wana go with exedy flywheel or an offbrand. Just like rotors it's just a hunk of steel so there's no real reason one should be better than another. On another note would now be the time to do a lightweight flywheel if i intend to do a lightweight crank pulley? I've heard even lightening both i'll need to have the engine's rotating assembly balanced to compensate and that's kinda the boxer's shining point is engine balance.

The pic he showed us was impacted from the inside. As for tranny swap the engine wont move. U may need to jack it at the crank to get some tilt back to remove the tranny.

Thats odd seeing as these dont have a cut valve for the heater core. If it rose to hot quickly then back down that sounds like an air pocket or faulty sensor. The gauge sensor isnt the same as the ecm one so its likely to do that and not throw a code. The fact that it was low worries me. Has it dropped any since you topped it off?

Takes alot of force to hold down the flux capacitor

Thats impact damage. Something inside has come apart. Ive seen it on alot of nissan transfer cases

No since these cars use cmp/ckp sensors to monitor cam and crank position and fire the coil through the ecm based on imputs. If those 2 sensors cause this ull have a 340 or 335 code.

That could cause a problem. Mine leaks too and idk why. It runs down the passenger side to #1 spark plug or onto the timing cover