808Legacy

I'll do that soon, just need to get the car away from my kid's mom for a spell. (Gotta Bondo the holes above the windshield too!)

Excellent, I'll check that tomorrow. See if it kapakahi. Mahalo from Maui!

thanks John, I tried unplugging the box and it won't start, unless I'm missing something? really would rather just disable the thing. we really don't need it here on Maui and I don't want to spend $30 for a remote my kid will probably lose. that link you sent says this: "Programming or Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off. " what I'm not understanding is that second to last line where it says: "Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed." This reads like a misprint or bad English translation. I thought this was for if the remotes were lost. In any case, do you think they mean to have me press the lock button on the door?

Squeals loud on "cold" starts not after. "Cold" is not really cold here in Hawaii, just first thing in am (never below 70deg.) Belts seem good and tight (and in good condition); tried the soap trick. Maybe it's a pulley tensioner? Doesn't squeal after warmed up. Any ideas? Mahalo in advance!

Got a 98 Outback that didn't have remote keys from previous owner. Every once in a while, the alarm system (it's original Subaru, not aftermarket) seems to take on a life of its own and you have to use the bypass button underneath while turning key with clutch in. Then, it seems to kill battery once in a blue moon on top of that, which is a bigger nuisance. We don't need this stupid alarm system at all! From reading other posts, it might be a trip to dealer to disconnect it properly, or, if I'm reading one post correctly, a matter of separating and re-soldering the ignition feed wire which is wired to the little black box up above the clutch. The alarm horn, btw, had a cut black wire, so I just cut the red wire as well and taped both up. Maybe that was causing a periodic short that was setting it off and killing the battery?

http://youtu.be/EC-mTfcxdSg

So, I am in Hawaii, temp. never gets lower than 70-75 deg., so there is no "cold" cold start (unless I spent the night on Haleakala (10,000ft) or lived way upcountry above 5000ft. Thick oil turns lighter fast out here. I am very apprecitative of everyone's input here; I am going to try the cylinder experiment in the morning. Seems like the knock is now much lower in volume and very intermittent, btw. I'll post another video soon.

Ok, went with my savant mechanic friend's suggestion and added the Lucas oil stabilizer (about 2 qts), 2 qts Lucas 70 wt racing oil, and topped it off with 15w40. No more knock!

Because that's what I had on hand. Same weight. Mixing reg. & synthetic is fine.

This doesn't get worse or louder under load. I'll listen closely when I drive it up hill next, but pretty sure it doesn't. It doesn't seem to diminish as it warms up, does seem to be intermittent, or at least I didn't hear it much when my friend pulled it in just a minute ago. Restarted and it's there. But subtle. I just listened with a piece of garden hose as a makeshift stethoscope. Def. seems to be coming from medial (to borrow another medical term) engine block, able to hear more from driver's side (but more obstructions on pass. side).

This was an accidental repost of the video because it didn't appear on my iPhone.

http://youtu.be/Ah1GwaPY_Ds

Hope my video link shows up, I can't see it on my iPhone, but might just be my connection.

First, let me cut to the chase: http://youtu.be/Ah1GwaPY_Ds Recently got a great deal on a 98 Outback. Manual, 172k, yeah, yet seems solid to me, good power up hills, shifts fluidly. yet... it was rather low on oil when I got it last week, so I added 2 quarts 10w-30 (1reg, 1 blend), and then today, 1 synth. It's not leaking anywhere, btw. I've read other threads about similar clicks and knocks. This one isn't very loud, but my more knowledgable friend insists that it could be an issue and that I ought to change oil with Lucas and some 60 weight racing oil. I realize this could be a variety of issues and even a video isn't the same as seeing it in person. Seems to be coming from drivers side middle area. He thought previous lack of oil might have done some metal damage, like in piston or valve(s). Beyond my expertise, for sure. The knock is so subtle, I wasn't super worried about it (the way Subarus sound), yet my friend says I need to deal with it ASAP. Any takers?

Ok, so we have conflicting advice over pure 80-90 gear oil vs that mixed with ATF and Lucas Transfix. I guess I'll drain it just to be sure. But I'll wait to see if anyone else chimes in.