Ady_E12

Yeah, thanks a lot for your advice. I will re-check that coolant hose, I did look at it a lot(had the right side interior panel off a bunch of time for mending the fuel vapor recovery system and for routing the aftermarket fog lamps power wires). Also I do think there is something wrong with the starter, I will take it apart and give it a good clean when spring comes(hate working when it's cold). I tried to hot wire it today and it didn't worked. Lots of grinding and no actual cranking until I seriously whacked it and until I actually rocked the car a few times front-to-back in gear. After that, it cranked and fired up nicely. I replaced the spring that closes the throttle plate on the carb yesterday and I took the van for a quick drive test. It's waaaay better now. The old one won't even fully close, the throttle plate was actually not sitting on the idle screw. This new one is a lot stronger and it closes the plate right. So I was driving along, I got a call from a mate with a 1970's Opel and he called me over to mess on our cars. While setting up jumper cables to start his Opel(it has been parked all winter long), I noticed that his fuel filter is facing backwards compared to mine. After a few seconds of shock and utter epic FAIL shame, I realized that I put mine in backwards. Flipped it over, put the key in the ignition and immediately saw the gas dripping in it. I gotta say, the van seems to run faster now. I'm speechless. First, because of my stupidity(had that thing in there for like 3 weeks now), and second, because of the difference that a badly installed fuel filter may make. Will keep you guys in touch. Thanks again for the advice!

Possible, but it only does that when it's really cold(i.e. winter time, sitting over night). I don't need to wack it when it's warm outside, I don't even need to hot wire it. It cranks right away with the start button and it starts right away. The wacking is just a bonus thing that I do to help it crank, it's an old mechanic's trick that know it's used to start cars that have been sitting for a while. When it's warm, I don't even need to give it a bit of gas to fire up, I only do that when it's really cold or when I have ************ty gas in it(there are some gas stations that sell ************ty gas, I tend to avoid them, but sometimes I'm forced to get gas from them).

I did make a jumper wire that I use to hot wire my own car when I try to start it cold and it works. I just have to smack the starter a few times with a wooden hammer handle, put the key in the ignition, put it on the ON position, replace the start button with the jumper wire and it cranks right out. The button works also, but only after the car has been running(engine warm, battery charged, etc). I think it's safe to say that the button is the problem. It works, but it does not allow enough current to run through it when it's cold(weaken battery, etc).

Hello anyone! It's been a really long time since I last posted a message m'here and a lot of things have happened. I did managed to get the van fixed and registered. I'm so happy, I still can't belive it. This thing is soooo awesome! It's not 100% perfect, but it goes, it stops and it's heaps of fun. I still have to mend some electrical things(headlamps suck, fog lamps light up, engine start button needs a relay, etc), the mpg is also not that good, even though I got the carb tuned by a specialist, but I got it to run. 4WD and everything. I had all the vacuum system redone, using some diagrams that I found on the interweb, brand new vacuum hose all around, new coolant, filters, spark plugs, oil, I replaced the broken handbrake cables with brand new genuine parts, etc. I need to change the oil(again), put something really good in it, like a MOTUL or something, I have to machine down the wear on the brake drums or replace them, paint them BLAAAACK for +25 Kw of pure JDM power. Also, I'm quite curious about something: I always get traces of some sweet-tasting liquid(possibly anti-freeze) on the rear bumper. Perhaps it's time for a new radiator cap? I don't know. Does any of you guys know what could be the matter? I shall make a video to explain it better. Until then, happy New Year, good luck and best of wishes!

I think I found the source of the lights problem. It may very well be the lights switch shorting out somewhere. Will take it apart, see if it's reparable or see if I can replace it. I finally got the engine to run. It runs great, but it still needs some adjustment. Also, it needs a replacement intake manifold. Will try and sort that out as well. I changed the gearbox fluid, but I didn't do the front diff. Just to be sure, the dump plug is on the front side of the diff and the filler is on the driver side, towards the back? By the look of it, that's how they are positioned, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Awaiting reply. Will keep you guys posted. This project is not far from completion. Have a good one!.

Try checking the vacuum lines for cracks or tears. I used to hear mine click while pressing the button with the ignition key into ACC position, now it doesn't do that anymore. I have some problems with the vacuum switch solenoid on the back(right next to the main power fuse box). To check for the vacuum part working(trying to pinpoint the problem without using the electrics), try switching the 2 vacuum lines that go into the gearbox from the double vacuum switch solenoid(the one in front of the engine bay). Switch the 2 lines that go into the gearbox together. A mate of mine who used to have an E10 told me that if you do so, it will engage the 4WD without using any electrics. The light on the dash should pop up since the contact is made when the shaft is engaged. Disclaimer: I never tried this on my van, I never seen it work, I am curious myself. This mate of mine is a really nice helpful bloke, really into Liberos, so I kinda' trust him with this trick(will try it once I get my engine to start). Let me know if it actually does something. Good luck!

Thanks a lot! That's how I remembered mine and that's how I set them when they started to act up. I'll do the best I can to fix it, but I'm also gonna have someone qualified take a look at it.

I joined a German Libero forum and I asked around, it seems that this: http://www.kex.de/Bildergalerie/vaccumhosesystem.jpg is the correct diagram for the 1992 E12 KJ8 vacuum lines. Still waiting for an answer regarding the lights, please. In the meantime, I took the 4WD vacuum switch off, gave that some TLC as well. Will put it back on the car these days. Cheers!

Ultra-noob question: Where should the lamps with the H4 bulb go? Are they supposed to be the inner lamps or on the ones on the outside? I'm asking because I was dumb enough to take them off without taking a clear picture. I set it in my mind, I put them back on as I remembered taking them off, but lately I can't trust my memory. Maybe this is the cause of my "police strobe light" issue. Just throwing it out there as a possibility. I am truly ashamed for the big FAIL, but I must do the right thing and ask. Thanks! PS: I've got a hold of some E12 engine pics from a Czech SUBARU forum. It's got a makeshift diagram on it, but I can't understand a word(I don't know the language). As soon as I get it translated in English(most likely with the wretched Google Translate), I'll post it here .

I met up with this guy that used to have an E10 and we took a look at the starter. The teeth on the bendix are slightly bruised. Also, the ones on the flywheel gear ring are bruised. The starter has it's moods. Usually it cranks right away, but it does these episodes when it grinds or does nothing, just clicks. My theory is that the gear ring is slightly more bruised in one point and when it happens to engage on that exact point, that's when it acts up. This guy said that he used to switch the gear ring around when it got worn(not on his SUBARU, on other cars). Old mechanics trick he says, works great. He is not quite a rookie, he took studies in the field and he owned several cars that he modded. I won't do anything at the moment about the starter, will work with it as is. When the clutch will finally worn off, I will take the engine off and only then I will replace the gear ring and the starter. I really need help setting up my vacuum lines. Someone with an E12, someone with an automatic choke carburetor, please help me. I will try Czech or Polish SUBARU Libero forums as well, even though I have no idea how will I be able to communicate with those guys. Having this friend of mine over today was a great thing, he helped me change the brake fluid and to bleed the system. Brake pedal really stiff now, level all topped off and most importantly it's brand new. I got rid of the old nasty brown stuff. Also, the brake line that I made from a salvaged Ford brake line doesn't leak. Will check how the cylinder works. Video coming up tomorrow. Thanks a lot, guys!

I'm taking the starter off the car today, I'm having a mate(former E10 owner) come along and help m,e take the starter apart and look for worn out brushe or stuff like that. Will make a video. Thanks!

I don't know, man... it's starting to really bring me down. I installed the freshly painted airbox yesterday and some ground wires that I rebuilt(there are 3 ground wires down in the right rear corner, right next to the coolant bottle). I had to relocate one of them because the bolt that held it before got broken so I attached it on the frame, on the bolt that holds the steel vacuum line on the chassis rail(on the right side of the engine bay). Now it has the same cranking problem that it had when I bought it. It also struggles to crank without completely cutting off power to the other systems. I'm gonna take the starter off the car again, maybe take it apart and check the parts inside. The other stuff seems to work(stereo, hazard lights, etc).

Thanks a lot, mate! Your carb looks like the manual choke one, but the pics are helpful. It's much simpler for you, but mine has the automatic choke carb and there are waaaaay more vacuum lines. Will try and figure it out. I've got this friend of mine(engineer, Automotive Chuck Norris), he's cleaning my carb and he'll help me install it, fine tune it, etc. The power cables came from a 2.3 liter German built Ford. If they were good enough to power a starter that big, they are most certainly good enough for my little van. Also, they are almost twice as thick as the SUBARU factory ones. It didn't even crank with the original cables, now it works great. Question: Where is the filling plug on the gearbox? I know where the oil drain is, but I'm not sure where the filler is. The guy I bought the van from said to check the levels(gearbox and front diff). Since I must check the levels, I would like to completely replaced the fluid with new. I mean.... the van is 20 years old.

Latest update video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb6VWu1WCYU . Please enjoy and if you can, HELP ME! Will do some more work this weekend.

Hello, dude. I finally found your thread. Let me know if I can do anything to help you out. Also, I kinda' need some help myself with the vacuum lines. Swapping the old KJ8 for a fuel injected unit is a great idea. Hell, I thought about it myself(not a big carburetor fan), but since the last owner had the engine rebuilt, I thought it would be a shame to swap it now. Also, I can't really afford it . Anyways, let me know if there's something I can show you/help you with.

I tried to figure out what is the deal with that rubber hose that I found on the transmission, but no luck. It doesn't look like a vacuum line, it's a bit thicker that the rest of the vacuum lines and it looks like it's meant for gear oil(translucent and oil-brown in color). Problem is I don't know where it's supposed to go. No help from the pics I have with the German repair manual. It has some schematics on the gearbox, but that nipple where the hose sits is not mentioned. Anywho, I cleaned the outside of the gearbox with a wire brush(lots of dust collected over the years) and I took the battery - cable out for a re-solder along with the battery box. I'm thinking of making a new cable all together for the negative lead as well. I've got some thicker black cable left from the Ford, and the solder that I did on this one is an embarrassment so I think a replacement will work just fine. The battery box is really dirty and rusty(no holes, just surface rust, but really nasty) and since I have access to it's mounting bolts, it's a good idea to take it out and give it a makeover. The underside is exposed to road debris/corrosion so proper rustproofing is a must. I strongly believe that replacing the wires with thicker ones and with brand-new connectors will help. Also, a proper solder on the ignition wire will do good. My hypothesis is: since that thing was twisted back together and covered with electrical tape, in time, the glue from the tape melted from the engine heat, creating some kind of a sludgy imperfection in the contact. That and the corroded power cable connecters would give the starter low voltage, causing it to crank poorly. If you think about it, it kinda' make sense. BTW, I took the starter out, looked at the teeth on the bendix, they were fine, just fine... fine. No damage. That's good. Two pics of the dirt that I took out with the starter. I'm definitely going with clutch wear dust. Finals are coming up this week so I'll tone it down a little with the van. Will keep you guys posted. Cheers

About that dirt inside the starter housing. Yeah, that's exactly what I imagined it is. Dust created by the wearing of the clutch. It looks really weird. It's all black and fibery and stuff. Totally gothic. Got a tiny bit out along with the starter. Will post a pic. I wanted to do a dry run for the starter, to fire it up electrically connected to the car, but out of it's housing so I can see how it runs, but for some reason it didn't work. I put the terminals ok, I used a jumper lead to ground it to the engine, I took out the fuel supply and the ignition coil aaaaaand nothing. It did show that power drain that happens when you turn the ignition, but it didn't budge at all. Also, now the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on anymore when I put the key in the ignition. The whole starter/oil pressure light not working kind of pissed me off so I decided to leave it be for the moment and to take the battery + cable off the car so I can replace it. Crummy little thing actually, looks so weak. The cable that I'm gonna put in is not new, but at least is almost twice as thick as this one and it's gonna have new connectors. I KNOW that is gonna be an improvement. I had to take out the entire airbox, but all for the better. I've got loads of access now and I found one broken vacuum line(I think it's vacuum, it sure looks like it) that goes somewhere to the gearbox. Logic would dictate that it has something to do with the 4WD system(which doesn't work) perhaps it will be a cheap fix to a major issue. I'm off to confront that German manual to see if there's something about that vacuum line. Will keep you posted. Oh yeah, I also adjusted the tension in the throttle cable and I power brushed and painted a rusty vacuum pipe. Yeah. Much better. Will install the pipe as soon as I get it back from the ranch(paint wasn't dry). The throttle response is much better with the new cable setting, it runs great but I have to install that pipe and clean the carb ASAP. Weird popping noises(blow-by I think). Cheers!

I know I can't fix the problem with the vacuum cleaner, but I think it's something worth doing since I'm opening that access point. It can't really do any harm. The thing I'm looking for is some movement of the pressure plate. If that moves when I have someone pull the fork. Now, about the starter hole, it looked like there was some dark dirt in there when I first took the starter out. I tried to protect the hole while the starter was out by stuffing a clean plastic bag in there and it seemed to be pretty effective. It's not gonna fix the clutch or anything, but I think it's a good thing to do.

I got the greatest idea this morning. It came out of nowhere. In order to access the clutch for inspection(to see if the pressure plate is actually doing something when I push on the fork), I will remove the starter from it's position. That should work I guess. Also, I'll be doing some more inspection on the starter itself. I'll look for possible foreign objects(unlikely) or damage caused by misalignment(not sure how likely since the starter is a straight forward bolt on unit). I'll also try to stick a vacuum cleaner hose inside the starter's hole, there is some kind of weird dirt in there. After cleaning, I'll inspect the movement of the clutch and perhaps I'll squirt some penetrating oil if the thing is really stuck as the last owner claims. I will replace some of the power cables as well. The battery+ lead must be replaced(will install a thicker power cable salvaged from my Ford w/ brand new connectors) and I'll redo a bad solder made on the ignition wire. Actually it's not even a solder, the wire got broken in the past and the previous owner just twisted the the wires back together and got some electrical tape over it. Hope the starter problems will be solved with these repairs and, hopefully, I'll fix the clutch as well. Wish me luck.

To be honest, it kinda sounds like that to me too, but I really hope it's not the case. I just got off the phone with the previous owner, he said that the clutch was ok when he had the van, but it can be seized since it sat for a good five years. He said to try and lubricate it somehow. Now, the man really is a good person, open about everything, didn't lie about stuff before I bought the car, I can't think of a reason why he'd lie to me now. This all looks like I'm gonna have to take the clutch off the car and take a look at it. Not something I'd really enjoy doin', but what can I say? I bought a cheap old Subaru, stuff like that was bound to happen.

After a few hours of fiddling with the the adjusting nut on the clutch cable, I finally gave up. I can't get it to engage properly. There is a spot where the car barely flinches, but it doesn't really move and it will never stall if I release the clutch fast. I've got some info from a German repair manual, it says I have to get 160mm or more from the edge of the floor panel to the pedal when fully pressed. That's the only thing I could get from that book with Google Translate, but the problem is I can't go more than 135-140 mm in real life. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? Also, can anyone give me some proper clutch cable adjustment 101? I dreamed that I actually drove the van last night. I want to turn that dream into reality. Will make a small video to explain my problem better. Cheers!

The starter solenoid can be replaced with a more common Dacia 1310(Renault 12 replica) part. I don't know about the starter motor, but a former Subaru Libero owner told me that the solenoid would fit. I'm worried that the occasional miss-crank will affect the bendix teeth or the flywheel teeth. The clutch..... I'll call the last owner and ask him. He told me something about adjusting something on it, but I can't remember. Should've taken notes or something. He also told me something about checking the transmission fluid levels, but I have to figure out where are the filler and dump plugs. I've noticed a good friend of mine(automotive Chuck Norris) about the fact that I started the van and I asked for assistance with the carburetor. Will be fixed in 2-3 weeks max(depending on his schedule.

I did replace both fuel filters. It has 2 paper filters, a bigger one down by the fuel tank and a smaller one just in front of the carb. Changed both with the big model. It's all about taking the carb apart, cleaning and rebuilding it. Then refitting the vacuum lines in the appropriate order. I'll hire a professional to do that, I'm not at that stage yet. I don't know why, but I can't get the van to move. The clutch doesn't really do anything. It barely BARELY moves when I put it in gear and it doesn't stall like a car should when I release the clutch. Previous owner said something about tuning the clutch cable or something, but I can't remember. I will call him tomorrow to ask him again. Also, I'm quite nervous about that starter issue. It still crrrrrrrrrs and clicks and stuff. It doesn't crank properly all the time and, honestly, it's quite scary. I will also replace the big cable from the battery to the starter. It can't hurt to have a new one.

I've installed the power line that I made, I've installed the 4WD/2RWD vacuum switch that I took off to restore and the oil pressure sender that I restored and IT FIRED UP!!!! I'm SO happy! Lots of smoke at first(running really rich and the carb needs a nice thorough clean), nasty cranking, a bit of a cough(again, the carb is dirty), but it starts. I'm concerned about the clutch/transmission(will barely engage), but all in good time. This is for you guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF8O6ez-XhE . Thank you!

This is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC_Mdwwodmk. PS: I was not high or under the influence of any substance. This is just how my voice sounds on tape.