SmokerX

Stripped screw heads. Cut flat blade screw heads with a dremel cutting wheel. Stripped those. Then drilled into the screws center until I could bash a allen head socket with an inner diameter the same as the drill bit into the hole. Was going to JB weld a bolt onto the head and turn that, but this was cheaper. This is a stupid design for a wrist pin access plate, I`m glad the rest are plugs. Going to see if they have that size with a different style head such as an Allen or Robertson. It's a ferrous screw not aluminum like I thought for anyone interested in welding on them.

I think I figured it out. While changing the spark plugs the electronic connector for the fuel injector came loose. I touched it and it slid right off. It must have been jumping the small gap with electric since the misfire was intermittent. I must have accidentally diagnosed a coil in the charge pack going out or the injector contacts being loose causes a true misfire and not just an idiot light; since now visually checking the spark it looks fine even with injector contacts loose. This is the 2nd time and 2nd assistant that has jiggled something loose we where not working on that caused days of head ache since it is out of mind and overlooked. The first was a main wire on a distributor while working on a starter. Both times I was underneath the car while they where on top.

I found this in another thread. someone thru some crap autostore plug wires on it, and there were a couple ends that wouldn't "snap/click" onto the end of the plug right. In fact, when i went to look at the car, the owner before me said it had a miss. I looked, saw the new "junk" plug wires on it, and snapped the one end on the plug, it cleared the miss up. Then a few days later, same thing happened under my ownership, plug wirecomes off the spark plug. I'll recheck the plug to boot connection and visually check for spark again.

Hi Fairtax, thanks for the response. Would a burnt valve or injector retard the timing to make 4 not fire? I think it would just notice a change in torquing of your drive shaft and throw the misfire code without a real misfire. When I visually inspect mine I can tell 4 is not getting spark so it's definitely a spark issue not a compression issue causing an idiot light unless there's something I dunno about as far as compression causing no spark. I'll recheck all 4 sparks to make sure only 4 is not firing since I only checked 4 and w/e plug is on that side to compare it to.

Hi, I have a 1998 Subaru legacy outback that's showing a Check engine code for no spark on cylinder 4. I changed the wires, plugs and Coil pack already and it persists. The misfire comes and goes. When I visually observe the spark by disconnecting the wire at the Pack while Running in park, 4 seems to have weak spark and an intermittent miss. When I switch to Drive and check, it has no spark. This is exactly how it feels when driven except I think weak spark returns after no spark when accelerated. I'm not familiar with anything involving spark beyond the Coil pack on Distributor less engines. I was hoping the coil pack would fix this. The connections to the coil pack look fine. Is this an ECU issue? or a loose harmonic balancer? O2 sensor?