chuckl10101

I have a 83 Subaru GL that I tried to get back into shape, motor runs like a sewing machine had carb rebuilt last year. Wife wants yard cleaned up and sadly have to see her go. Has had issues with front end passenger, its a hatchback, but motor/trans good would hate to see her crushed clear title I am not In position to care for her like she needs to be any takers ? We live in NE Alabama

Naru: Thanks a lot. I'll check that. it JUST started doing it recently like I said. However, the car had been "sitting up" for about 2 yrs till I could get the gas tank holes repaired and after that much time, I knew there would be "bugs" to work out in the car, but this thing pretending to be a "bucking bronc" in a rodea LOL, is rediculous. I'll surely check that fuse and/or fuel pump control unit. Chuck

Folks: I have a 1983 Subaru GL wagon with a 1.8 engine, and it has a Hitachi carburator that has an electrically heated, bi-metalic automatic chokeoperation. Anyway, the thing has been VERY cold natured just recently, and until it runs for several minutes, it goes like a bucking bronc. The Haynes manual book tells me to check for voltage at the electric bi-metalic heater. I did, and it only reads 1 (ONE) volt. Is this supposed to be all it reads??? That wire is supposed to send current to the bi-metalic automatic choke thus heating it up so that it expanded the bi-metalic coil, and opening the choke slowly. Although the book don't tell how many volts it;s supposed to read, there is an illustration in the book, and the electrical multimeter in the pic is reading 6 volts. I also turned the ignition to the "on" position and put my finget to the bi-metalic coil and it dod NOT get hot as it;s supposed to. Is there something like a resistive wire that is limiting the wire to the 1 volt I'm reading, therefore, not giving it enough heat to make it operate the automatic choke??? Thanks a LOT fo rANY help. Chuck

Folks: Ever since I bought my Subaru from my late best friend before he passed away. And I haven't tried to replace the heater core because I think that if I take the whole dash assy. apart, I'd never get it back together again LOL. However, I was thinking "Maybe it was one of the heater hoses that had the leak and not the heater core at all". My friend had just taken a short piece of heater hose and looped it between the inlet and outlet as we have probably all done at one time or another. Anyway, back to the heater hoses. I thought that I'd just go outside and put new hoses through the firewall and into the heater core, which should be right there on the passenger side of the car as that is where the heater core is located. Not a big job. Boy was I wrong. I stated looking and there was NO heater hoses coming through the firewall. I FINALLY found the inlet/outlets for the heater hose on the engine are wayyyyyy over by the steering column on the drivers side. And I started looking under the dash, and there they are, two heater hoses that come out of the heater core, then go all the way across the car under the dash, and go out through the firewall there. So anyway, my question is this. Will I still have to take the whole dash etc out of the car just to get to the hoses as well?? If so, I'll just replace both hoses and the heater core while I have the car apart. Thanks for ANY tips on replacing these hoses without having to tear into the whole dashboard assy just to change the hoses. Thanks a lot, Chuck

jonas: One last thing. How do I remove that barrel from the switch?? Neither my Haynes, nor my Chilton's manuals tell me that. Thanks a lot. Chuck

jonas: BTW. If the new key doesn't work I'll do what you said about removoing the tumblers, but for security reasons I'l do what I did when my Ex wife kept trying to steal a '73 Plymouth Duster some 33 or so yrs ago. The judge awarded Me the car, as I bought it BEFORE we got married and in FL, I guess that was the way the law read on "no contest divorces". See, she still had a key, so she could have just jumped in the car, fired it off, and took off with it. EXCEPT the fact that I outsmarted LOL. I went up under the dash, and found the main hotwire going from the ignition out to the starter etc. So, I cut that big, main wire, and installed a well hidden switch to the wire way up under the dash that was easy for me to get to, but would have been a LOT of trouble for her trying to find out what had happened. I could see the car from the window up in my barracks, and she came up there one day trying to "steal" the car. And when shetried the key thos time, it wouldn't do ANYTHING. I just came down there and laughed at her. Man was she mad as a hornet, because before she left with her new boyfriend, I got in the car, flipped the switch, cranked it up and drove off, waving at the two of them. So, she just sat there giving me the "You're #1" symbol with her middle fingers ahhaha. She came back again about three times, but FINALLY just gave up trying. Chuck

Jonas: Thanks a lot. And yeah, I am finding out that they are VERY hard to find. I re-looked at the key a cpl hours ago and notice the key I thing is what's worn out. It was bent a little and the tumbler ridges and/or valley's (I guess that's what the ridges and/or vally's are called on a key). I'm going to take the key to my local locksmith Monday and get a duplicate key made, and maybe it will work. Worth a try I guess at this point. Thanks again, Chuck

Hi Folks: I am in need of an igntion key switch for my 1983 Subaru GL wagon. I have been starting the car by putting a flathead screwdiver, and cranking it that way. I'm attaching a cpl pics so you know the exact part I need. It MUST have a key (for obvious reasons). I think what has happened is that the notches on the key itself are just so worn down that the key will NOT turn to crank the car unless I jiggle the key, and that's no fun. Besides that, where I live here in Alabama, the cops have roadblocks all the time, and if the cops see that one part of the switch, where the three wires are soldered on in the pic, they might think I stole the car even though I have the tag reciept, title, and insurance in my name. Thanks a LOT if you have a key, or maybe know how I can fix the problem. And since I am VERY new to the site, and haven't yet figured out how to "follow" all the thread etc, you can email me at chuckalexander@centurylink.net If that (posting my email addy) is against the rules, I apologize in advance. Chuck Alexander