deiscient
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Posts posted by deiscient
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Thanks for the fast reply, triple7.
FWIW, yes, I am on all original suspension save a new steering rack boot about 4 years ago. The "bounce test" shows that all 4 struts still have good damping. Is there some other test for resilience I can try with minimal tools?
I put Yokohama Avid Tourings on around that time as well which I normally keep inflated to ~35 PSI (door jamb pressures are bogus!).
I was also starting to think that the sway bar links might be showing signs of wear. Possibility?
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This has been ongoing for a while so I throw this out to the intelligent community.
For a few years I have noticed that my '93 Legacy sways about considerably when driving at highway speeds (65+ MPH). I generally do not have to correct the steering direction much when driving straight. Nevertheless, the car does feel like it is being blown about considerably even on days with little wind.
I have been to a few different Tire/Auto and garages inquiring about this and all have said my steering and suspension components look and feel solid. Is there something else I should be watching for that maybe they are missing? Alternatively, is this just a "quirk" of these cars that I have just gotten more sensitive to over the past few years?
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In my case I pulled out the oil filler tube. That left plenty of room to swing the ratchet using a 3". And, yes, I too was done in about 1/2 an hour.It took about 20 minutes to do in my EJ22. Pull out the washer fluid tank and get a 6 inch extention and it is as easy as can be
World of difference between my Legacy and the wife's mini-van. OTOH, her EmPeeVee has a timing chain instead of a belt (no replacing, YESSS!!) and the water pump is located right on top of the engine. I suppose that kinda makes up for the spark plug situation...
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You don't know the half of it. Just replaced the plugs on my Mazda MPV. That has a Ford Contour's 2.5L V6 in an engine compartment designed for an I-4 (for ROW markets). You need an 8" extension...and it is almost impossible to line up the socket-extension to fit inside the plug recesses! On top of that, you need to remove the coil pack to get at the rear bank of plugs where you cannot see what you are doing at all.I've been told that lots of newer American cars, especially minivans, are much worse than these.Good thing double plats are called for (60Kmi life) as I am not looking forward to doing that again for a long time.
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You've got mail (a private message at your USMB CP).HI,The pass side is the right.
I can sell you a brand new oem for 65.00
plus shipping
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I was looking for a replacement corner lamp at 1st Subaru Parts. This seems like a good deal for a new part. However there is something confusing going on here. The illustration is supposed to be for the "right" assembly. However, it looks like the driver-side lamp, which would be my left when looking out the front (I need the passenger-side lamp which is oriented the opposite from the picture.
How does 1st Sub differentiate right from left; from inside looking out the front or from the front looking toward the back?
Please help as I am completely disoriented.
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Getting to the party a bit late but here goes:Sounds like the shift lock system is messing up. It could be the controller, it might be one of the sensors too.Where are the sensors and controllers located? I am starting to experience some of the same now on my '93 and would like to start some process of elimination.
TIA
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JM $0.02
With all the TriBeCa discussions now emerging might it be time for a forum dedicated to this incarnation? The vehicle seems distinct enough from the Legacy/OB to warrant this.
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Okay, Googling "Calsonic AC clutch" yields this document for a '93 Honda Prelude. That model used the Calsonic V5 which seems like the same "genre" as our Calsonics if not the exact match. It contains a procedure thus:
CALSONIC V5 & V6 CLUTCH COIL R & INOTE: Calsonic V6 compressor servicing procedure is not available from manufacturer. (my emphasis, this was obviously a reverse-engineered procedure. -D)
Removal:
1) Remove shaft nut while holding clutch plate with Clutch Disc Wrench (J-39072). Install clutch disc Puller Set (J-39073-4, J-33013-1, J-33013-3) and remove clutch plate.
2) Remove snap ring. Use a universal gear puller to remove clutch pulley. See Fig. 3. Remove screw from clutch coil lead. Use puller to remove clutch coil.
Installation:
1) To install clutch coil, reverse removal procedure. Ensure coil lead is installed in original position. Using puller set and Coil Jig (J-39073-1), carefully press clutch coil into place.
2) Install a new clutch pulley snap ring, being careful not to damage shaft seal. Press clutch plate into place. Install shaft nut and torque to 89-106 INCH lbs. (10-12 N.m).
3) Use a feeler gauge to check clutch plate-to-pulley clearance. Clearance should be .012-.024" (.30-.60 mm). If clearance
is too large, remove shaft nut and again press in clutch plate. If clearance is too small, increase gap by pulling up clutch plate. DO NOT remove shaft nut.
So, it can be done with some highly specialized pullers and such. The only challenge remains to actually find a part that would fit.
Then again, it does appear from the diagram that the bearing is attached to the compressor body on the Calsonic. That is unlike the Bosch model preceding it in which the bearing is removed as well in the procedure. So maybe the bearing is not swappable after all.
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The sound is most like an additional radiator fan above the normal engine sound; kind of an upper baritone-lower tenor pitch. It is progressive with RPMs and only noticeable when the AC is on. It is definitely not the screeching associated with slipping belts.
I did read the forums on about.com and someone there mentioned a similar noise that they fixed by replacing the clutch and bearing. I have not seen replacement clutches and bearings sold online for the Calsonic but I did for the other brand common in '93s (Kinki-Diesel?). So, looks like I'm stuck following 777's advice for now.
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After nearly 13 years of trouble free operation I am starting to notice a grinding hum from the compressor when the A/C engages. It is progressive with engine RPM and only noticeable while the A/C is running although I have yet to do the "stethoscope" test. The cabin air still blows ice cold.
Is my clutch/bearing giving out? If so, is the Calsonic C5-15 compressor clutch unit replaceable on-the-car? I would like to get around having to replace the whole compressor and evacuate/r134a retrofit/recharge/....the whole system if I can avoid it.
Otherwise, I think it may be time for r465 A/C (4 windows open/65 MPH).
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Nit: Tribeca...
Tri-Borough Economic Area, IIRC. Nothing like trying to make a high-falutin' Brand out of an old warehouse area. What's next??? Some fancy brand named after Watts or the South Side? US consumers are gullible.
TriBeCa = Triangle Below Canal. Area south of Canal street in Lower Manhattan. Site of old business and warehouse district that, starting in the late 1970s/early 80s, became a settlement area of choice for young professionals seeking to be close to the financial district. More here. Suffice to say; "what a difference a generation makes."
So the name symbolizes renewal and gentrification out of decay. If the City of LA can manage similar regeneration in Watts or South Central who is to say what will happen a generation hence?
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You will notice that the highest "working man's" brand is Toyota. Number 2, by a hair, is Mercury. Mercury!! Of all things... That's gotta hurt.
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Actually, if you want to talk about hideous designs I saw Chevrolet's replacement for the Venture recently. They went from a neatly sloped front to one that looks like a bastard cross between a van and a Hummer; that front end is just too bulky looking.the times they are a changinI remember when Dodge came out with the new line of truck, and when Jeep introduced the new Wrangler. Hated them both at first but they grew on me. i could probably come up with a list of automotive design changes that I didnt like at first, but after seeing them around for a while they just became the norm.
We'll see what happens long term. FWIW, I am starting to see lots of the "fugly" new Chev. models on the streets around here. The Tribeca might just end up fitting that mold despite us.
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Hey, very art-deco with a bit of Edsel pucker. Kinda reminds me of a Dali painting. :cool:some pics:
Those portholes recall a '40s vintage Buick.
I don't see much of any more space in this car that I don't see in my grandfather's 93 Legacy Wagon.
I did see one on the entry ramp ahead of me this AM here (with dealer plates). Sizewise, if you get beyond the elevator shoes, it looks like an Outback so your space comment is probably on the mark.
Seemed to have good power and acceleration; bugger took right off and headed for the horizon before I even merged into the traffic.
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Date of manufacture should be on the information plate affixed to the driver door jamb. Also includes vehicle weights, VIN, and other goodies.A certain AC condenser will fit my 97 Legacy GT if it was manufactured by 4/97. Does anyone know how to tell what month the car was made?Thanks, Tom
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Russian cars have the steering on the left like the rest of continental Europe.Nothing wrong with the picture. The website links to a Russian website. I assume that Russian cars are all RH drive. Besides, the european Subaru's doesn't carry the "star" badge, they carry something different. -
Right hand steering wheel? FWIW, I have seen one or two of those on the roads around here. Presumably the stevedors in Japan loaded the wrong car on the ship (Japanese drive on the right side of the road). Once it got hear SOA has to do SOMETHING with it; presuming that it would be cheaper to sell it here rather than ship it back to Japan, Australia or England.
Oh, and the nameplate marque is not Subaru's. Looks almost like Peugeot at this distance.
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I have to second this perspective. When I replaced my muffler a few months ago (recorded my saga in these pages) I was told by the parts guy that ~3 years is the typical lifespan of most replacements. Peter's analysis is probably spot-on in that the suppliers (usually Arvin, Walker or Bosal) plan on a typical replacement lifespan of about that before you trade/sell/junk the vehicle. Hence, their "lifetime" wager is usually a pretty good bet from their business standpoint. If you go back for a subsequent replacement they will surely "apologize profusely" the first time and strongly suggest you get rid of that heap any time after that.I believe the marketing reasoning behind the "lifetime" warranty is that you don't pay for the product, you pay for the paper.Working on the theory that you will eventually not want to take the company up on it's warranty (sell, wreck or just don't care about the vehicle or have the work done elsewhere, as has been mentioned in this thread).
With that perspective, you didn't buy lifetime equipment but the paperwork good for lifetime replacements... take them up on it. You are talking about 1 1/2 hours every 2 or 3 years... not so bad...
then write a letter to George Forman.
Later,
Peter
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Just FYI for all: I have seen from a few aftermarket suppliers that reman. alternators are in serious shortage right now. I have been told that the Bosch or Denso may not become available for up to a week.
I hope this isn't usually the case for these items. May have to suck it up and go with the OEM, assuming they are not similarly backlogged.
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Which is more impressive; that you hit 150k or that you took that photo while cruising at 55 MPH?Wow, that's a lot of miles in a pretty short time.Hey look what I just hit:
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Look at the difference in price for a Legacy vs. Impreza. $180 vs. $390. Obviously, one is a brand new unit and the other a reman. (UPDATE: numbers corrected.)Sorry for the false info. I just checked and the alt for my car (96) is $67.50 but 179.96 for yours like edrach wrote. I think both are Subaru genuine rebuilt.What would explain such a price discrepancy!!!!!?????
I'd be interested to know how they made $67.50 possible for your '96.
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Or you could try 1stSubaruparts. I think their price is around 60$ and it's a genuine Subaru rebuilt.
They're up now. Legacy alts. are offered for ~$180. Pretty close to the Denso reman referenced above at "Express". AFAIK, Nippondenso is one of the OEMs for the Legacy (mine is Hitachi). Decisions, decisions.
I put a call into the rebuild place here. Will see what they think. TBC...
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Thanks for the pointers all. I did find a fairly good-sized rebuild shop here in Boston. I will try to get a hold of them today but given the general consensus here about the toll that heat takes on the internal werkins I am not expecting much. Anywayz, I did find this deal on the 'net.
When it comes to mechanically critical parts I shy away from someone else's junker extracts but thanks anyway.
Feels like I'm swaying in the wind
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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