deiscient

Yes, I have noticed that the instability is more pronounced on wheel-rutted sectioned concrete roads than on their newer all asphalt (not my fault...) replacements around here. Still, it is noticeable even accounting for this effect.

Thanks for the fast reply, triple7. FWIW, yes, I am on all original suspension save a new steering rack boot about 4 years ago. The "bounce test" shows that all 4 struts still have good damping. Is there some other test for resilience I can try with minimal tools? I put Yokohama Avid Tourings on around that time as well which I normally keep inflated to ~35 PSI (door jamb pressures are bogus!). I was also starting to think that the sway bar links might be showing signs of wear. Possibility?

This has been ongoing for a while so I throw this out to the intelligent community. For a few years I have noticed that my '93 Legacy sways about considerably when driving at highway speeds (65+ MPH). I generally do not have to correct the steering direction much when driving straight. Nevertheless, the car does feel like it is being blown about considerably even on days with little wind. I have been to a few different Tire/Auto and garages inquiring about this and all have said my steering and suspension components look and feel solid. Is there something else I should be watching for that maybe they are missing? Alternatively, is this just a "quirk" of these cars that I have just gotten more sensitive to over the past few years?

In my case I pulled out the oil filler tube. That left plenty of room to swing the ratchet using a 3". And, yes, I too was done in about 1/2 an hour. World of difference between my Legacy and the wife's mini-van. OTOH, her EmPeeVee has a timing chain instead of a belt (no replacing, YESSS!!) and the water pump is located right on top of the engine. I suppose that kinda makes up for the spark plug situation...

You don't know the half of it. Just replaced the plugs on my Mazda MPV. That has a Ford Contour's 2.5L V6 in an engine compartment designed for an I-4 (for ROW markets). You need an 8" extension...and it is almost impossible to line up the socket-extension to fit inside the plug recesses! On top of that, you need to remove the coil pack to get at the rear bank of plugs where you cannot see what you are doing at all. Good thing double plats are called for (60Kmi life) as I am not looking forward to doing that again for a long time.

You've got mail (a private message at your USMB CP).

I was looking for a replacement corner lamp at 1st Subaru Parts. This seems like a good deal for a new part. However there is something confusing going on here. The illustration is supposed to be for the "right" assembly. However, it looks like the driver-side lamp, which would be my left when looking out the front (I need the passenger-side lamp which is oriented the opposite from the picture. How does 1st Sub differentiate right from left; from inside looking out the front or from the front looking toward the back? Please help as I am completely disoriented.

Getting to the party a bit late but here goes: Where are the sensors and controllers located? I am starting to experience some of the same now on my '93 and would like to start some process of elimination. TIA

JM $0.02 With all the TriBeCa discussions now emerging might it be time for a forum dedicated to this incarnation? The vehicle seems distinct enough from the Legacy/OB to warrant this.

Okay, Googling "Calsonic AC clutch" yields this document for a '93 Honda Prelude. That model used the Calsonic V5 which seems like the same "genre" as our Calsonics if not the exact match. It contains a procedure thus: So, it can be done with some highly specialized pullers and such. The only challenge remains to actually find a part that would fit. Then again, it does appear from the diagram that the bearing is attached to the compressor body on the Calsonic. That is unlike the Bosch model preceding it in which the bearing is removed as well in the procedure. So maybe the bearing is not swappable after all.

The sound is most like an additional radiator fan above the normal engine sound; kind of an upper baritone-lower tenor pitch. It is progressive with RPMs and only noticeable when the AC is on. It is definitely not the screeching associated with slipping belts. I did read the forums on about.com and someone there mentioned a similar noise that they fixed by replacing the clutch and bearing. I have not seen replacement clutches and bearings sold online for the Calsonic but I did for the other brand common in '93s (Kinki-Diesel?). So, looks like I'm stuck following 777's advice for now.

After nearly 13 years of trouble free operation I am starting to notice a grinding hum from the compressor when the A/C engages. It is progressive with engine RPM and only noticeable while the A/C is running although I have yet to do the "stethoscope" test. The cabin air still blows ice cold. Is my clutch/bearing giving out? If so, is the Calsonic C5-15 compressor clutch unit replaceable on-the-car? I would like to get around having to replace the whole compressor and evacuate/r134a retrofit/recharge/....the whole system if I can avoid it. Otherwise, I think it may be time for r465 A/C (4 windows open/65 MPH).

TriBeCa = Triangle Below Canal. Area south of Canal street in Lower Manhattan. Site of old business and warehouse district that, starting in the late 1970s/early 80s, became a settlement area of choice for young professionals seeking to be close to the financial district. More here. Suffice to say; "what a difference a generation makes." So the name symbolizes renewal and gentrification out of decay. If the City of LA can manage similar regeneration in Watts or South Central who is to say what will happen a generation hence?

You will notice that the highest "working man's" brand is Toyota. Number 2, by a hair, is Mercury. Mercury!! Of all things... That's gotta hurt.

Actually, if you want to talk about hideous designs I saw Chevrolet's replacement for the Venture recently. They went from a neatly sloped front to one that looks like a bastard cross between a van and a Hummer; that front end is just too bulky looking. We'll see what happens long term. FWIW, I am starting to see lots of the "fugly" new Chev. models on the streets around here. The Tribeca might just end up fitting that mold despite us.

Hey, very art-deco with a bit of Edsel pucker. Kinda reminds me of a Dali painting. :cool: Those portholes recall a '40s vintage Buick. I did see one on the entry ramp ahead of me this AM here (with dealer plates). Sizewise, if you get beyond the elevator shoes, it looks like an Outback so your space comment is probably on the mark. Seemed to have good power and acceleration; bugger took right off and headed for the horizon before I even merged into the traffic.

Date of manufacture should be on the information plate affixed to the driver door jamb. Also includes vehicle weights, VIN, and other goodies.

Russian cars have the steering on the left like the rest of continental Europe.

Right hand steering wheel? FWIW, I have seen one or two of those on the roads around here. Presumably the stevedors in Japan loaded the wrong car on the ship (Japanese drive on the right side of the road). Once it got hear SOA has to do SOMETHING with it; presuming that it would be cheaper to sell it here rather than ship it back to Japan, Australia or England. Oh, and the nameplate marque is not Subaru's. Looks almost like Peugeot at this distance.

I have to second this perspective. When I replaced my muffler a few months ago (recorded my saga in these pages) I was told by the parts guy that ~3 years is the typical lifespan of most replacements. Peter's analysis is probably spot-on in that the suppliers (usually Arvin, Walker or Bosal) plan on a typical replacement lifespan of about that before you trade/sell/junk the vehicle. Hence, their "lifetime" wager is usually a pretty good bet from their business standpoint. If you go back for a subsequent replacement they will surely "apologize profusely" the first time and strongly suggest you get rid of that heap any time after that.

Just FYI for all: I have seen from a few aftermarket suppliers that reman. alternators are in serious shortage right now. I have been told that the Bosch or Denso may not become available for up to a week. I hope this isn't usually the case for these items. May have to suck it up and go with the OEM, assuming they are not similarly backlogged.

Which is more impressive; that you hit 150k or that you took that photo while cruising at 55 MPH?

Look at the difference in price for a Legacy vs. Impreza. $180 vs. $390. Obviously, one is a brand new unit and the other a reman. (UPDATE: numbers corrected.) I'd be interested to know how they made $67.50 possible for your '96.

They're up now. Legacy alts. are offered for ~$180. Pretty close to the Denso reman referenced above at "Express". AFAIK, Nippondenso is one of the OEMs for the Legacy (mine is Hitachi). Decisions, decisions. I put a call into the rebuild place here. Will see what they think. TBC...

Thanks for the pointers all. I did find a fairly good-sized rebuild shop here in Boston. I will try to get a hold of them today but given the general consensus here about the toll that heat takes on the internal werkins I am not expecting much. Anywayz, I did find this deal on the 'net. When it comes to mechanically critical parts I shy away from someone else's junker extracts but thanks anyway.