deiscient

More on this. It appears that most OEM sellers provide the pressure and return hoses as a combined set. This makes some sense as both of these hoses are bound together with brackets at several points along their length and the brackets do not appear to be serviceable. Since these are both 'soft spots' in the PS system it is probably advisable to replace both anyway. It is probably not so advisable to replace with used parts since age and fatigue can do a number on high-pressure-stressed parts like these. I hope to get on this replacement in a couple of weeks; not driving much now and going on vaca. shortly. Will report my results and observations.

Junked!? Man, I can't find any second-hand parts around here. Seems like they are all still on the road.

[presently giving self a dope-slap upside the head] I should have looked here first. This clearly shows the positions of the pipes AND that they are meant to be removed/installed as a single assembly. I hear great things about that there internet; might be a big thing someday...

Ditto here. Costco insisted on Bridgestone Potenza RE950s; H-rated, 40k warranted and $90 each installed. Would not install Turanzas for $20 less. I promptly walked out and went to my local garage for a set of Yoko. Avid Tourings (S and 80k) for $72. Costco will give you good bargains for many things. Tires are not among them.

Looks like one of my PS hoses is starting to give way. Definitely the rearmost hose as it is covered in seepage while the other is completely dry. Question to the group; how do I tell if it is the pressure hose or the return? The parts sites I visit have different SKUs for these pieces. Also, these parts are sold as entire pipe/hose assemblies running from the pump body to the rack body. Now, it appears the leak is at the junction piece between the hose and the pipe section so if I could get away with just replacing the "soft" section that might be preferable. Is that a doable item or better go with the full assy.?

According to Toyota the "Scion" moniker indicates that the brand was meant to foster loyalty to Toyota products in the next generation of car buyers. Basically, they are aiming at the 17-26 year old marketplace. So FHI may want to likewise go for a name suggesting youth, passing on to the next generation, growing up, etc. Just as names like Acura, Infiniti, etc. project precision and durability to more established buyers. OTOH, in fact, most Scion buyers are 30-50 year olds in need of a cheap commuter so this marketing perspective might just be bunk.

Well, bring it on. And while we're at it, perhaps an "entry" brand like Toyota's Scion wouldn't be a bad idea either (stripped down Impreza and Justy knock-offs).

Nope, sorry. He means one of these. The miracle of Google...

Hmm, dead thread. Let's pump some life back into it... I installed Bosch Plat. +4s (sp?) in my '93 Legacy L last summer. This partly because I am a newbie at DIY and I did not feel like causing a FUBAR by mis-gapping the plugs. Anyway, the car runs fine with plenty of power and acceleration. However, my mileage has taken a nose dive from 30+ to about 24 MPG. That seems to be somewhat of a consensus among other postings in this forum; the Plat. +4s increase fuel use. Am I doing harm by keeping these plugs in or should I swap them out for some plain coppers at my earliest opportunity?

I assume this is the stuff you mean. Adding to Carb/FI Manifold makes sense for cleaning the injectors. What about this bizzniss of adding to the crankcase oil? Seems a bit iffy to me but I am still on the upward side of the learning curve.

The tech page on Autozone shows some nice diagrams and tech info (torques, etc). Scroll down to the Legacy section.

Merci, mon ami. BTW, the odo. hit 123456 as I parked this AM. How cool is that? Too bad I didn't have a camera or I would post a pic.

I will definitely say that the pressures posted on the door jamb are bogus. Disregard them completely! I have kept all 4 inflated to 34 lbs ever since my original tires wore out their shoulders at 34K mi. while the Lincoln Memorial sunk into the center tread. My second tire set ran nearly 60K mi. and were pretty evenly worn all around at EOL. I am currently on Yoko. Avid Tourings and keeping them likewise inflated. Will inspect the ball joints soon, hopefully.

Also in Maine, Missouri, Tennessee, Kentucky...looks like we've got lots of towns called "Paris" here in the lower 48.:-p BTW, I vacation from time to time in your province so I do try to brush up on the happenings about, political newshound that I am. My last visit was on the heels of Jean Charest and the Liberals sweeping the PQ out of the National Assembly and shocking everybody by raising the Maple Leaf next to the Fleur d'Elise. And, yes, I was happy to note that the Legacy is a popular automotive choice with the locals up there.

Paris, Canada? FWIW, My favorite inventor this winter is surely Arthur Sicard.

Let's turn that around. Our President deals with the big stuff (fostering democracy, chasing dictators, etc.) Your PM deals with the little stuff (Medicare, local people's rights). Seems like the Global War on Rust is best left for M. Martin. Hopefully, he can reverse M. Chrétien's legacy of collective hood-ornament gazing. The ONUzi (for you francophones north-of-the-border) is best left to rust itself out given it's effectiveness of late.

Maybe it's just me but I cannot imagine exerting that much force on the control arm and knuckle components and not doing some damage. Somebody please put my mind at ease.

Sounds like the exact same problem I am having with my own '93. Whaddya expect? The car is 12 years old. Anyway, I am planning to scout the local junkyar...er, automotive recyclers this spring for replacement panels. Some rustout is also occuring on the right rear quarter around the fuel fill (thanks to an improperly done "professional" body repair about 5 years ago . Someone on another thread mentioned the use of used engine oil as a body-seam sealant and preservative. Might be just the ticket to prevent further internal rustout AND seal out the road crud. Anyone else have experience with this? I am inclined to smear some Rust-Oleum or other such on the frame rails as some added insurance against further deterioration. Keep us posted and I will try to do the same here. Nice to know I am not alone.

Looked at it again last night. Poked a finger through the hole to check the interior. The frame rail still seem solid although there was quite a collection of dirt inside. Hopefully cleaning this out will save the rail from serious harm for a while. Lots of used body panels for sale on a few 'net sites so there is a possible springtime project ahead. It would be a shame to part with this car now. It still runs perfect (although DW can't stand the thought of me driving it any distance beyond the local Quik Mart...).

Had a wake-up call recently. I was kicking the snow and dirt of the front driver-side mud flap when it and a significant chunk of rusted-through metal fell off the fender body panel. So, anyway, it looks like time to replace that entire section (front-left quarter). Is this a DIY-able item, assuming I can find a chop-shopped section of the right color (maroon, which I have seen a lot on the road)? Any stories of similar replacements out there?

You might stand a good chance of getting decent, lo-mi "heart and lungs" from a disposed '93-96 Leg. Those still used the 2.2 liter engine although I am not so certain of the tranny compatability. I would be a bit cautious before overpowering your wheels with a 2.5-liter powerplant.

Pipe had rusted through. To be expected when steel is exposed to an unstable, corrosive solvent like gasoline. Couldn't tell exactly where it was but there was a fair amount of corrosion along the length of the tube. I tried to do so at first but couldn't get the screws off the top of the fill pipe. Eventually had my mechanic finish the job with the appropriate penetrating oil. Aside from this it shouldn't be too difficult; just remove the right rear tire and the whole pipe is visible from inside the wheel well.

Had the same thing happen to me once; fill tube leaks for a while after a fill until the tank gets down to 1/2-2/3 level. Replaced the fill tube and the problem solved ($230 part at my local dealer. Available for less at parts.com). See here for a nice diagram of the filler/tank/pump assembly. https://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213799&chapter=AEL7520&appSectionid=2782&groupid=2783&subgroupid=4022&componentid=0&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1993&graphicID=7520408&callout=6&catalogid=2 There is a plastic shield with a hole at the bottom protecting the pipe from road debris. When you replace the pipe clean out the sand and dirt from inside the shield.

Hi, folks. S'mee again... I have been noticing over the course of the past ~2 years that my '93 L has a bit of difficulty holding a straight line when traveling at highway speed (55+). Almost feels like driving through a crosswind even when there isn't much; seems like a lot of steering-wheel compensation is needed. Lower speeds feel just fine. I had several different alignment specialists look it over in the past year and all said the steering and suspension are in fine shape, even considering the mileage (just broke 123K). Nobody raised any red flags about abnormal tire wear. Is this perhaps an indicator that the struts are going? I asked about this recently and was told that they look fine. The "bounce test" works OK; just a single down-up cycle when I jump on the bumpers. Or is my driving just too spirited?

Well, I did it; replaced the pipe and the muffler as well. The entire section was so rusted it pretty much disintegrated in my hands as I was removing it. The "PB Blaster" recommended in another thread worked wonders for getting the bolts off the flange. Now my next question. This is my second muffler/pipe replacement for this car. The first was about 3.5 years ago after I crunched it against a curb. The original equipment had some rust on it but was basically sound (bad pun, sorry), aside from being "torn a new one". Replacement was done by a local Midas shop (this was before being bold enough for DIY work). So, the original exhaust lasted 8 years before being destroyed by trauma whereas the replacement self-destructed in less than half that time. Indeed, the intermediate pipe leading forward to the cat. converter is still as solid as new. Is Subaru doing something special with its exhaust components to keep them going longer? Will I be redoing this work in another 3.5 years (assuming I still have the car then)?