mwd

Thanks for all the help. I'm with the sheep, too. I'll get a new OEM front O2 sensor ordered.

The scan tool app thinks the front sensor is a wide range type. It does not cycle up and down much compared with what I have read re: front O2 sensors. Do wide range sensors not cycle rapidly? Or maybe the scan tool app does not respond to the fast cycling?

Checked for leak at exhaust flanges at idle and higher RPM (~1500 RPM). None found using hose to ear technique. New gaskets at heads recently with head gasket replacement. Car has MAP sensor: Warm idle = 6.5 inHg. 2500 RPM = 5.9 inHg. Drove car again logging Upstream O2 and post cat O2. Saw 4.7 V upstream O2 during decel. As low as 3.2 at WOT, 5th gear uphill 2500 RPM. Here are some screen shots of Upstream O2 =GREEN range 0-5 volts. Downstream O2 = RED range 0 - 0.9 volts. These O2 sensors have never been replaced as far as I know. 2000 Outback Limited 5 sp. 2.5L.

Replaced wires and PCV. Checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks - none found. Bought scan tool and OBD Fusion app. Test drive today with scan tool. Bank 1,Sensor 1 wide range voltage varied from 3.7 to 4.4 volts. Bank 1, Sensor 2 voltage varied mostly inversely with Sensor 1 between near zero to 0.9. Long term fuel trim sometimes straight lined at -2.4%. Short term fuel trim varied from +2% down to -18%. On the "Dashboard" there was a O2 Sensor 1 that came setup with the software that read zero all the time. My newbie guess is that the front O2 sensor should be replaced first. Then watch the readings and see how the rear sensor reacts and replace as necessary. We live on the western slope of Colorado - no emissions checks. Mike

To wireless enabled: Both times the CEL came on was when I came down from 10,600 ft ASL to lower elevation - Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado. Both times were in the past 3 weeks. Thanks to all for the advise. I will proceed to get a code reader/app and start with the wires and vacuum hose inspection.

Spark plugs - 14K ago Air/fuel filters - 500 miles ago PCV valve - never?? Timing belt done at 105K I will replace the PCV, check wires for resistance readings, buy a scan tool, check for vacuum/exhaust leaks and probably try replacing the rear O2 sensor. THANKS for the assistance!! Mike

2000 OB, 132,000 miles. Local shop says codes indicate the cat is shot and the O2 sensors are out of range. Estimates total bill to be $2,300 because the car is California compliant and it needs a California catalytic converter. Is there anything to try other than replace all these parts?

Thanks for the info!! This is very valuable help, Gloyale.

We have a 96 Subaru Outback, 5sp. Engine head bolt broke off in block. We have a 94 Legacy engine, Auto. What will it take to get the wiring/computer hooked up to the 94 engine and working in a 96 body/computer?

Replaced cam position sensor and now all is well. Starts every time for the past 3 weeks.

96 OBW 2.2L MT, 126,000 miles. Sometimes won't start. Unplug cam position sensor and plug back in and it starts. CEL comes on then goes out after a few more OK starts. Code is P0340 (camshaft position sensor circuit failure). Assumed that it is the connector not making good contact and have worked on it to insure better contact, but have seen no improvement. This week it died when I hit a bump but restarted. It shows 2200 ohms across the sensor contacts. The connector reads 15K ohms from one contact to the other. Black wire shows 15K ohm to ground and the white wire shows 0.2 ohms to ground (other end connected to ECU). Sensor puts out voltage when engine is cranked. Do the cam position sensors fail intermittently? Or does this sound like a wiring problem?

How do the Gen2 2.5L engines last? I have heard the 2.2L engines go for 200-300K miles regularly. My son just bought a 2000 OBW with 126K that is in great shape, but I am wondering how long to expect the 2.5 to last.

2000 OBW needs timing belt. Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop/mechanic in the Salt Lake City area?

Anybody got any reliable specs on the MAP sensor voltages?

The smell is the sulfur/phosphorus extreme pressure additive (EP). Not all synthetic gear oils smell of sulfur/phosphorus additives. Some manual transmissions prefer GL-4 80-W90 gear oils. The synchronizers like GL-4 better than GL-5. The additive that smells the worst is the additive for limited slip differentials....it is derived from whale oil.

I used Gylon washers (low cold flow form of teflon gasket material) and used thread locker on the bolt. Also torqued it to 16 ft-lbs. Seems to be holding so far. When you say it doesn't work, do you mean that it doesn't stay tight enough or that it still throws a code or that the hesitation is still there due to the knock sensor retarding the timing? My hesitation is still there but is much better with the 2 gylon washers. Thanks for the reply. Mike (BSME '76)

The Haynes manual says the MAP (manifold absolute pressure?) sensor should output "below 3 volts at idle (high vacuum) to 2 volts with wide open throttle (WOT) (low vacuum)". I have a 96 Outback 2.2L. Are these voltage specs correct? I am concerned that the Haynes manual may not be correct for my particular year/engine. My MAP sensor output is 1.5 V at idle and it drops to 1.4 V at ~4000 RPM. Symptoms: hesitation between 2-3000 RPM. I have added teflon washers under the knock sensor to keep the ECM from giving a code for the knock sensor. I suspect that the O2 sensor is original-- 115,000 miles. Is it for sure that the MAP sensor is bad? It is $180 from 1stSubaruParts.com. Any better price available elsewhere? Or is replacing the knock sensor or O2 sensor a better bet?

Any ideas about the clutch???

When turning around in parking lot, back tire was chirping and vehicle lurched a little. (5sp manual xmission). Does this mean the center diff is sick? It acted like my 81 Landcruiser on pavement in 4WD. It seemed like it was "binding up" when I rolled to a stop (after turning circles in the parking lot), it felt like the parking brake was on. When starting off got some shudder from the clutch. Oil on the clutch disk? Lots of parking lot dings, broken rear turn signal lens (the long plastic one that says "SUBARU" that spans the rear. Looks like quite a project. Motor seemed strong tho. $5000 was too much for me so I passed on this one. Still looking tho.

Never owned/ridden in an Outback. I am going to look at a 96 OB, 117K, manual transmission, 1st asking price is $5000. Used car dealer has it. He got it from a wholesaler. Came out of Conneticutt. It is in Arkansas, Subarus are almost rare here (=cheap??) Good deal? What should I look out for in checking out this car?