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mwd

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Posts posted by mwd

  1. Checked for leak at exhaust flanges at idle and higher RPM (~1500 RPM).  None found using hose to ear technique.  New gaskets at heads recently with head gasket replacement.

     

    Car has MAP sensor:  Warm idle = 6.5 inHg.  2500 RPM = 5.9 inHg.

     

    Drove car again logging Upstream O2 and post cat O2.  Saw 4.7 V upstream O2 during decel.  As low as 3.2 at WOT, 5th gear uphill 2500 RPM.

     

    Here are some screen shots of Upstream O2 =GREEN  range 0-5 volts.         Downstream O2 = RED   range 0 - 0.9 volts.

     

    post-3555-0-91072600-1453001086_thumb.jpg

     

    post-3555-0-88054400-1453001113_thumb.jpg

     

    post-3555-0-03551000-1453001160_thumb.jpg

     

    These O2 sensors have never been replaced as far as I know. 2000 Outback Limited 5 sp.  2.5L.

     

  2. Replaced wires and PCV. Checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks - none found.

     

    Bought scan tool and OBD Fusion app.  Test drive today with scan tool.  Bank 1,Sensor 1 wide range voltage varied from 3.7 to 4.4  volts.  Bank 1, Sensor 2 voltage varied mostly inversely with Sensor 1 between near zero to 0.9.  Long term fuel trim sometimes straight lined at -2.4%. Short term fuel trim varied from +2% down to -18%.

     

    On the "Dashboard" there was a O2 Sensor 1 that came setup with the software that read zero all the time.

     

    My newbie guess is that the front O2 sensor should be replaced first.  Then watch the readings and see how the  rear sensor reacts and replace as necessary.  

     

    We live on the western slope of Colorado - no emissions checks.

     

    Mike 

  3. 96 OBW 2.2L MT, 126,000 miles. Sometimes won't start. Unplug cam position sensor and plug back in and it starts. CEL comes on then goes out after a few more OK starts. Code is P0340 (camshaft position sensor circuit failure). Assumed that it is the connector not making good contact and have worked on it to insure better contact, but have seen no improvement. This week it died when I hit a bump but restarted. It shows 2200 ohms across the sensor contacts. The connector reads 15K ohms from one contact to the other. Black wire shows 15K ohm to ground and the white wire shows 0.2 ohms to ground (other end connected to ECU). Sensor puts out voltage when engine is cranked.

     

    Do the cam position sensors fail intermittently? Or does this sound like a wiring problem?

  4. The teflon washer thing really doesn't work. I tried it, it made no difference, and the bolt actually came loose, creating more issues.

     

    115k on the orig O2 sensor.....it's probably time to be replaced.

     

    Check out https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

     

    I used Gylon washers (low cold flow form of teflon gasket material) and used thread locker on the bolt. Also torqued it to 16 ft-lbs. Seems to be holding so far.

     

    When you say it doesn't work, do you mean that it doesn't stay tight enough or that it still throws a code or that the hesitation is still there due to the knock sensor retarding the timing?

     

    My hesitation is still there but is much better with the 2 gylon washers.

     

    Thanks for the reply.

     

    Mike (BSME '76)

  5. The Haynes manual says the MAP (manifold absolute pressure?) sensor should output "below 3 volts at idle (high vacuum) to 2 volts with wide open throttle (WOT) (low vacuum)". I have a 96 Outback 2.2L. Are these voltage specs correct? I am concerned that the Haynes manual may not be correct for my particular year/engine.

     

    My MAP sensor output is 1.5 V at idle and it drops to 1.4 V at ~4000 RPM.

     

    Symptoms: hesitation between 2-3000 RPM.

     

    I have added teflon washers under the knock sensor to keep the ECM from giving a code for the knock sensor. I suspect that the O2 sensor is original-- 115,000 miles.

     

    Is it for sure that the MAP sensor is bad? It is $180 from 1stSubaruParts.com. Any better price available elsewhere? Or is replacing the knock sensor or O2 sensor a better bet?

  6. When turning around in parking lot, back tire was chirping and vehicle lurched a little. (5sp manual xmission). Does this mean the center diff is sick? It acted like my 81 Landcruiser on pavement in 4WD. It seemed like it was "binding up" when I rolled to a stop (after turning circles in the parking lot), it felt like the parking brake was on.

     

    When starting off got some shudder from the clutch. Oil on the clutch disk?

     

    Lots of parking lot dings, broken rear turn signal lens (the long plastic one that says "SUBARU" that spans the rear. Looks like quite a project.

     

    Motor seemed strong tho. $5000 was too much for me so I passed on this one. Still looking tho.

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