ibroad
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Posts posted by ibroad
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I'm doing a lot of maintenance to my Outback since it just reached the 120K miles mark.
Should I buy:
1) The original Subaru fuel filter for $27
2) The Wix fuel filter for $24
3) Some other brand that you recommend?
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K, thanks a lot.
I'll just get the V Powers!
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If your engine does not burn oil and runs clean, you can probably extend the service interval with the Laser Iridium plugs. Otherwise just use the factory recommended NGK ones.
So would these be alright to get?
http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=1439
$10 for 4 seems pretty damn cheap.
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Your engine uses a "wasted spark" type system. These will wear both the center electrode as well as the lateral electrode. The Iridium plug you listed will only protect against wear of the center electrode. So these plugs won't really last any longer, and you won't get any benefit from the increased cost. The correct Iridium option would be a double Iridium electrode, like the NGK Laser Iridium.
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-IFR5E-11-Laser-Iridium-Spark/dp/B000GZAUG8/
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_waste_spark_ignitions.pdf
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_LaserIridium_vs_Iridium%20IX.pdf
Some Subaru turbo engines use a "coil on plug" system. These can use the plugs with only an Iridium center electrode.
If your engine does not burn oil and runs clean, you can probably extend the service interval with the Laser Iridium plugs. Otherwise just use the factory recommended NGK ones.
Awesome. Thanks for the help.
I'm also replacing the valve cover gaskets at the same time.
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I'm replacing my spark plugs next weekend and I'm deciding between 2 types.
My Outback is stock, 5 speed MT, 4 banger
1) Manual Recommended- NGK V Power (BKR5E-11)
or
2) Forum Popular - NGK Iridium IX (BKR5EIX-11)
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Thanks guys. I checked/cleaned all the ground connections and also cleaned the battery terminals/posts. I reset the check engine light and it hasn't came back yet.
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i wouldn't think the battery/connecting to be related, just coincidence, but you can try it again and see what happens.
both positions of the switch don't work?
the heated seats, while a nice novelty item and i have them in my daily drivers, are lame and prone to wearing out/quit working. i'd be more surprised if you posted a thread like this "My heated seats warm up quick, work 100%, and have been for 7 years!"
Yeah, it probably was coincidence. And yes, both positions of the switch for the driver's side do not work.
But the fact that for a few minutes the heated seat did work and the light on the switch did turn on (both directions), tells me that it is still capable of working but something is hindering it. I just don't know what the something is. It's not the fuse since the passenger side works.
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The passenger's side heats up fine and the light on the switch turns on.
But, the driver's side doesn't heat up and the light on the switch doesn't turn on.
Last week my check engine light came on and I ended up taking the neutral off my battery to get the light to go away to see if it comes back.
After I did that the driver's side seat heater seemed to work and the light on the switched turned on for a little while, but then it stopped working again.
What could this be?
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Nevermind. How easy was that?
I just like asking you guys questions.
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So I unscrewed the screws holding the black case on:
But under the black case is a clear plastic thing that I believe the bulbs are in.
How the heck do I open the clear plastic thing?
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Thanks for the help.
It's the 4 cyl 2.5L
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My CEL came on last week, so I stopped by Advanced Auto today and got the codes read.
It came back with the codes:
P0065 Air assist injector solenoid valve malfunction
P0137 Rear Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0138 Rear Oxygen Sensor High Voltage
Has anyone dealt with these issues before? Does it make since that these codes would occur with each other?
Where in the heck is the "Air assist injector solenoid valve?"
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
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BUMP
Okay, so how do I know when all the air is out?
Will the clutch always go back to the floor?
Say all the air IS out and I open the bleeder valve, will the clutch still drop to the floor?
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a lot of us are pros. ever heard of a search function? use it. dont be insulting in here, and btw the yota guys wont take that crap either. if you need an answer that bad then go pay a pro to do it for you. otherwise use your keyboard and brain and figure it out. cmon, your thread isnt the only one on this subject so i know you can find one. this is the best soob forum ive ever seen. we're so helpful in fact that at times we can even help you help yourself. use the brake booster line. or one of the many other responses. good luck, hope it works RV
It was a joke, don't get your panties in a bundle.
I've read not to use the brake booster line. My question was is the one used in the video above an okay one to use.
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Okay, but what about the valve specifically shown in the video?
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Sorry, I thought you guys were professionals
I'll go ask over at a Toyota forum
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Is this an okay vacuum line to add Seafoam through?
I just want to make sure before I attempt it.
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Okay, so how do I know when all the air is out?
Will the clutch always go back to the floor?
Say all the air IS out and I open the bleeder valve, will the clutch still drop to the floor?
Thanks
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I replaced my slave cylinder last week and I'm pretty sure I didn't get all of the air out of the line, but it's still functioning.
I bled it for what seemed like forever, but eventually ran out of brake fluid.
For the last bit I just had my friend pull the clutch off the floor and keep pumping it until it gained some pressure and then just closed the valve.
I can shift, but I'm almost positive there is still air in the line.
Can this cause damage to the slave or master cylinder?
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Put a pair of visegrips on the fitting and find a way to clamp the mount down.
Use the handle of a hammer to smack the visegrip to break the fitting loose.
I gave up.
I'll try the hose another day.
Does anyone know if I can just order the copper tubing, or whatever it is that the hose screws into? It'd be easier to just replace that.
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To the left, remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy, then pop that clip off and pull hose through.
Alright I was doing it to the left, I just didn't know if it was reversed since it's inside the other hose
I still can't get it to budge
2002 Subaru Outback - Which fuel filter brand?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
No, I've personally never changed it and honestly I'm not sure if/when it was last changed.
Do I need to do anything special if I decide to change the hoses as well? Or do I just depressurize it the same as if I'm just replacing the fuel filter and replace the hoses too.