firstjump

any guidance on removing all the remote starter stuff? Here's some photos (yeah sorryabout the quality):

replaced the ignition switch. same problem persists. Car starts up on its own. Won't turn off with the key. Grinds/Screams when put into N or D. Shut if off by pulling spark plug wires or the circuit. wow. It's kicking my arse. big time. Now, I get the sneaking suspicion that it's the keyless entry and remote start (aftermarket) that I got to remove. Holy ishnit . But I know nada. So ... any suggestions? :-\:confused::confused:

thanks FairTax ... Big time ... So I'm going to take the wrong switch back to Autozone. I called Advance. They said the ignition switch only comes from the manufacturer and so they would have to order it ... and then they said NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Nice. Keep on striking away - that's what I do. So that made the last option for me: a junk yard. Did the search and came up with: Vehicle: 1997 Ignition Switch Subaru Legacy NOTE: NOKEY Stock # W1E017 Cost: $35 Location: Wagner's Auto Salvage Inc. USA-NC(Durham) I'm going to take in the old one and have them pull the part and see if it matches up. Damn. What a load of work ... and I hope it's worth it. I'll keep you posted of how this next step goes. I do hope y'all are getting some laughs out of my effed up situation and lack of ability and luck, but dogged determination to get this sum*************** running. Also, now that i get a closer look, I can see that it's the legacy outback - not impreza outback they have the part for. This is getting ridonkulous. Will keep you posted. Getting to be a yawner. After Market Remote Starter. Holy bunch of wires all over the place batman! Shiiiizle. Wow. I can see how those cause some problems. It's like reading a foreign language. I've taken some photos and will post. I just hope that the ignition switch is right first, then when i get that located, I will go to task on removing the mountain of wiring of the crappy dead remote starter. Thanks again and ...Cheers. and wish me some luck!

Can I just clip that red lined wire? I don't want to do that without knowing ... so I don't have to just waste that $35 i spent on the new switch. Thanks again. cheers!:confused::-\

argh, thanks guys for the help. I got the part from Autozone. They looked it up, ordered it, I picked it up and was excited to install it tonight. And then ... I realized i got the wrong ignition switch. The one I got, is a five wire one ... the one that I took out is a four wire one. I just took a picture of the two ... but my bloody camera froze up. I'll get it posted ASAP. So, now I'm stuck not knowing the right part to get. Man, if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd likely have ... i dunno ... it's not life or death, but talk about frustrating!! And now to your questions: Does the remote starter still work? The remote starter no longer works. It stopped working a couple of years ago. Connecting the wires. Thanks for your words on this. I got some "weatherproof quick splices" to hook those in with the other four wires. and now my camera is working ... compare the two ignition switches: The one with the snipped four wires is the old and faulty ignition switch. So ... that being said, anybody able to help me out with the right part number? The part number for the new one (the incorrect five wire one) is LS786 at autozone. It's made by the same "kanto seiki" folks from Japan ... just one wire is not there. And by the way, the wire that is "extra" on the new one is a RED lined wire. Sorry to be such a little b1tch and need so much help. I feel like a toolbag of tools that are worthless but dammit I need your help and trust you guys and most of all, I really appreciate it and will some day pass it along and help out somebody else. Also, note I've looked around the internet a lot trying to google the ignition switch and find the right one. ... what's interesting to me is that the link posted on this thread by FAIRTAX4ME at Advance Auto Parts - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ignition-switch-bwd-intermotor_10014289-p?searchTerm=ignition+switch# - looks like a four wire ignition switch, but when I run their little computer to verify that it is compatible with this subaru - it gets rejected. So, what the hell? How can i know which is right and go get it and not waste another day - of mine (and yours)!?! thanks a bunch hombres. Cheers.

Can i just snip and then couple the wires with the new ignition switch wires ... binding with electrical tape? Laugh if that is stupid as hell ... glad to give you a laugh ... but if it is that dumb and laugh-worthy, please tell me so I don't just do something stupid like that. Should I use couplers? I'm probably in over my head ... but that's the story of my life and I've gulped much much water and shi* but i've not drowned ... yet ... and i want to get this sucker fixed! Thanks again for the support and cheers to you and your laughs at my expense!:brow:

I'm back. Thanks for the replies. I didn't mean to sound ungrateful ... just been away for work for the last couple of weeks. .... that being said, here's where I'm at. I took your word and began doing this myself. All went well getting the steering column off (@#$% stripped screw excepting ... but that's life, right?) and locating the ignition switch. Thank you for the help on that. Yes that ignition switch is on the left/door side of the steering column and you need an angled and very small philips head screwdriver to remove it. PROBLEM: I removed the ignition switch and then came upon a problem. I followed the switch's wires over and encountered a mass of couplings. The following pictures illustrate this. this is the ignition switch, right? ... and here's where it connects: Notice it has the three yellow connectors ... as compared to the "plug" connector I expected it to be based on FairTax4Me's awesome post: http://images.apwcontent.com/is/image/Autos/201-1804_is?$APW_imgProd$ UGH! Is this something that happened with the remote start system that the previous owner had installed?? I'm sorry for being such a newb and being scared to screw something up ... it's never something too simple. What do yall recommend. thanks again for all your help. Cheers.

Thanks Dude ... you most definitely abide, and i wholly appreciate that. I actually know a pretty decent rebuilder around. When I get it pulled I'll look it over and then take it to the rebuilder and get his testing and opinion. Cheers and don't spill the white russian please.

Hey Guys, thanks a ton for your replies. I had to leave the subaru for a few days. I'll remove the starter and do as advised by y'all. I'll report then. Big thanks ... the explanations make sense too. cheers.

thanks for the input! Seriously, thanks. So, to make sure that I'm following: you're diagnosis is that it's a faulty/bad iggy (ignition switch)? Can i have this tested, or do I just need to replace it? Thanks again!

thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. The bad diode comment came from the post referenced in my original post. The alternator was sending voltage back to the starter and to stop this a diode had to be implemented. I wish i was smart enough to come up with that sort of idea, but alas, I'm not ... that was the theory that worked on the other person's similar issue and I'm trying to understand more so that I can know if it will work on mine. cheers and thanks for trying to help this desperate hombre. -fj

The starter will spin and start the car if i reattach everything and the key is on. If the key is in off position it will spin and (obviously) not start the car until i turn the key.

Intro & Pre-Thanks: greetings to all and thanks for this wonderful resource and all the people that contribute to making it great. I'm a newb and novice at car repair but this site has been invaluable to me. Thanks. Background and Problem Information Wife's 1997 Subaru Outback Sport with 199,000 miles on it. Recently replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one from O'Reilly Autoparts. NOTE: I realize now that such was a bad move as I should have gone through Subaru for $60 +/- (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1111401&postcount=12 for details and part number info). After replacing the alternator the Subaru ran like a champ for three days. After three days a problem surfaced. The problem came after starting the subaru. It made a gawd awful scream/screech immediately after starting. That horrible sound went away when shifted from P to D. After driving the car home (and it ran fine without sound or any lights of problems popping up on the drive). I went to turn the car off and the second problem occurred. The second problem was two-fold: (1) when shifting back to P from D [before turning key off], the loud screech re-occurred; and (2) then just turning key off did NOT shut the car down. That's a pretty freaky thing for this dude - turn the key off and the car just keeps on running and you can't put it in P or N because it screams like a banshee. .... anyway ... I finally got it shut down by pulling spark plug wires. Also, the battery is good and strong and takes a charge. It's a new battery from AAA. Lastly, just found out that pulling fuse 16 (the starter motor fuse) will allow the car to shut off (kills it). So, in the end, it appears that the screech is from the starter motor going whilst the car is already running - and the starter only engages when in Park (P) or Drive (D). The starter motor is going because it's getting power from the alternator or something ... more on this theory to follow. My Proposed Solution: Now having searched this forum a lot, I think I have an idea of what is bad. This thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131929 is the basis for my proposed solution. Naru and Cougar (along with Gloyale) found the solution - A BAD DIODE between the alternator and the starter motor. Would you agree with this? Also, sorry for the need for hand holding but I have ZERO CLUE on how to locate the diode that's gone bad and then how to replace it. CONCLUSION. Do you think this assessment is right? How can i locate this diode and replace it. I do have Radioshack close and can get a diode there. I did find a diagram of electrical that should apply and maybe can help with some translation help. The diagram is here. Thanks again! Cheers