mags

Just happened. Was working fine prior to that. I did leave out that the battery was dead as well. Don't know how they are related since the battery wouldn't see the short with the key in the start position. I think I left the internal light on.

I think I have a problem with my ECU. The other day it wouldn't start. Nothing, no noise at all. I pulled the power wire off the starter and measured the resistance of the wire (red/Yel) to ground and it was 197 ohms with key off - strange:-\. So I hooked the battery directly to the starter and it started right up! So I figured I had a short in the ignition wiring. I eventually found a Red/Yel wire that went to the ECU (MPFI control unit) which was causing the short (~197 ohms). I disconnected the ECU from the connector and the short went away. I cut the wire to the ECU and connected everything back up and it will start, but it has trouble starting when cold. Not sure of the function of this input to the ECU. Anyone suggest a fix? Can someone with a similar engine check to see if they get ~197 ohms to ground on their starter wire with the key off? Car has 136,500 miles, Automatic Transmission, EJ25 DOHC engine.

I think I found the problem. There's a plug in the little pipe that runs from the manifold, to which the EGR valve is attached, to the bottom of the back pressure transducer, through a rubber tube. I've been trying everything to clear it. Any ideas? Can you remove it? I loaded the picture into photos search on "EGR pipe". I Haven't figured out how to add them in the message yet.

Well I decided to pull the plugs and they were badly worn (big gaps), so I replaced them with NGK iridiums. It still wouldn't start until I shot some starting fluid in the manifold and closed it up. Then she fired up and has been running pretty well. Although I see that after a little driving I've got the old P0400 code pending. So, I still need to do some work on the EGR system. Prior to the plug change I pulled the EGR valve and it had a fair amount of soot on it so I cleaned it good. It held a vacuum well. I checked the solenoid and it appears to operate fine. I have no idea how the back pressure transducer works so if someone could tell me about that it would be great. I did a quick check and advanced the throttle quickly and held it, it looks like it moves about a 1/4 inch and stays there. If I move it more it moves about 1/2 inch and stays open. At idle it appears to be closed. Is that typical?

Thanks for the feedback! Got the Haynes manual. I checked the sensors (camshaft and crankshaft) with a voltmeter as follows: I turned over the engine with a socket and breaker bar and monitored the voltage. It did have a pattern, but the voltage was hard to read. It looked like I got about 35 millivolts at times. Guess I could do it slower to see for sure, but since I saw a voltage change I assumed they were ok.

I thought this was in "New generation of subaru's" sorry if it's in the wrong place. It's a 1996 Legacy Wagon 2.5GT, with 127,000 miles, Automatic transmission, and the timing belt was change about 8 months ago. I checked the sensors with a multimeter, the resistance was 1.9 Kohms when I turned the engine over with a breaker bar I got a voltage hard to say how much since it varied greatly, but I thought I saw 35 mV. I checked for Spark by pulling the wires and putting a new plug in the wire, then grounded the plug and turned it over. I didn't see a huge spark but it was consistent. I also checked the primary and secondary coil resistances and they were in spec. For fuel flow, I pulled the fuel hose going from the filter to the injector and turned the key to on and it gushed fuel. I don't know how to listen for the igniters with all the noise of the starter going - any suggestions. And I haven't checked the temp sensor for the ECU, I'll take a look into it. Thanks!!

Sorry, it's automatic transmission and the timing belt was changed about eight months ago. I pulled the timing belt cover first and it is intact.

I thought this was in "New generation of subaru's" sorry if it's in the wrong place. It's a 1996 Legacy Wagon 2.5GT, with 127,000 miles. I checked the sensors with a multimeter, the resistance was 1.9 Kohms when I turned the engine over with a breaker bar I got a voltage hard to say how much since it varied greatly, but I thought I saw 35 mV. I checked for Spark by pulling the wires and putting a new plug in the wire, then grounded the plug and turned it over. I didn't see a huge spark but it was consistent. I also checked the primary and secondary coil resistances and they were in spec. For fuel flow, I pulled the fuel hose going from the filter to the injector and turned the key to on and it gushed fuel. I don't know how to listen for the igniters with all the noise of the starter going - any suggestions. And I haven't checked the temp sensor for the ECU, I'll take a look into it. Thanks!!

It cranks over to beat the band, but won't start. I've checked for spark, fuel flow, timing belt, crank sensor, cam sensor. Just got a friend to check the trouble code and it says P0400, which is EGR flow malfunction. Could this cause it to not start? Any suggestions for likely cause or first troubleshooting steps?

It was the alternator. Boy they gouged me for it - $279 for a rebuild ouch!!

I was driving my 96 legacy wagon 2.5 GT for about twenty minutes when suddenly all the guages turned off including the radio, I think the only light on was the ABS light. Then a few moments later all went back on. A few moments later, I swear it was when I pressed the brake, out again. Then the engine started having trouble and died as I was pulling up to my house, Thankfully!! Later it started up fine. The Battery reads 12 V. While running the battery reads 12.8. Should it be 14-15V if the Alternator is working correctly. Any ideas?