NanoSoob
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Posts posted by NanoSoob
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It looks like he decided to part out the car. Bummer you couldn't buy it, that's one less XT6 on the road in MI........wow....I told the owner of the xt6 I will buy the car and he just sold it to someone else...sigh...I hope you find one in better condition elsewhere.
~NanoSoob
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I helped install the radiator, and it went pretty smoothly. The only complaint I have for the radiator was that when they painted it they didn't bother to tape off the fan bolt holes. We had to clean paint out of one hole to even get the bolt to go in...
Other than that it was a smooth install.
Glad it worked out for you, zx456!
~NanoSoob
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Changing the radiator is pretty easy, I think the last time I changed one it took me half an hour. Just drain the radiator, disconnect and remove the fans, disconnect the hoses, unbolt the radiator...
As far as refilling it goes, I just filled it slowly and squeezed the hoses to get a little extra air out of the system. Then I took my car for a spin, let it cool down and checked the coolant again.
~NanoSoob
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If I recall correctly, aren't starters for vehicles with automatic transmissions supposed to be a little more heavy-duty?
It might be worth checking into...
~NanoSoob
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Completely missed that one... Sorry!
And looking at a wiring diagram for an '88, it seems like the only thing it could be if the fan works in position 3 and not position 4 would be a bad fan switch. Bad resistors explain why positions 1 and 2 work, but not position 4.
Looks like I'll have to pay more attention next time.
~NanoSoob
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It is possible to repair the blower resistors. You just find some wire that is about the same size as the particular coil you're replacing, wind it in approximately the same number of turns (spacing it out appropriately), and solder it in. I've done this on a couple of previous soobs, and I just happened to have a resistor laying around, waiting to be soldered, so I snapped some pics of it.
I should note that there is a piece of plastic broken off from this particular blower motor resistor casing, so yours will look slightly different.
Hope this helps,
~NanoSoob
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The blower motor resistors are down next to the blower motor (above where the passenger's feet would be) on EA82 series cars. You should see a small (approx. 1" x 2") plastic box screwed into the duct, it will have some wires coming out of the top of it that connect to the same wiring harness that connects to the blower motor.
Hope this helps,
NanoSoob
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Did you check to make sure the choke is adjusted properly (make sure the plate is closing all the way)?
I know on vehicles I've had in the past if the choke plate wasn't closing completely they'd take thirty seconds or more to fire up, but if the plate was closing completely they fire up in about two seconds.
Hope this helps,
NanoSoob
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Wow, lots of good suggestions! A big thank you to everyone who has contributed!
I'm not certain that I will be able to borrow an air drill, which would seriously hamper any repair method that requires a piece of metal to be screwed over the hole.
I have some west system epoxy and fiberglass which could be used on the hole. I also have POR-15, which I have used like epoxy (with fiberglass) in the past to repair rusted sections of metal. Any thoughts on the POR-15 versus the epoxy?
It sounds as though if I want the tank repaired permanently I should either get it welded or buy a new one. And if I want the repair to just last the winter I could try some epoxy.
If I could get a patch over the hole and used Pro-Seal or something similar how long could I expect that repair to last? I don't drive this car off road, it's basically my commuter vehicle, so there shouldn't be any sudden stresses to the tank (from hitting it on a rock, tree branch, etc.).
Thanks again for all your help!
NanoSoob
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Although this happened to my new-gen Soob, I'm posting this here in hopes that more people will have experienced similar problems and come up with creative solutions.
I managed to punch about a two inch long gash in the bottom of my fuel tank in my 95 Impreza LX.
Before I attempt to repair it (replacing it really isn't an option due to current lack of funds) I wanted to see what the concensus was on how to properly repair a tank.
The tank is metal, so welding would probably work... But I only have access to an arc welder currently (I may be able to access a MIG welder in the near future).
I've talked to a couple of experienced car guys and they both say that they wouldn't weld it. One says to patch it with fiberglass and resin, the other suggested using a plate to bolt over the gash and seal it with silicone.
I'm looking to get a good number of years out of this car still, and I would like the tank repair to last the winter at the very least.
What would you recommend?
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For the conversion I did on my XT6, I used early Legacy front shocks with FWD XT6 caps on them and rear shocks off a 1986 GL wagon on the back. You'll need to bend the bottom bracket on the Legacy shocks out a little, the bottom mount on the XT6 is a little wider than the Legacy.
I have some new struts for a 95 Impreza sitting in my barn right now, so as I was installing my new suspension I compared the legacy struts with the Impreza struts. They seem to be the same dimensions externally, so it would seem that either would work.
The XT6 seems to ride a little higher all around, but handles well and rides smoothly down the highway...
Hope this helps,
~NanoSoob
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I've always had good luck with Williams Auto World in Lansing.
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I don't know for certain on the '97s, but on my '95 2.2 liter it has a seperate sending unit for the temp gauge versus the sending unit for the ECU (called the engine coolant temperature sensor).
You might try replacing the coolant temperature sensor if you changed the temp gauge sending unit before, but you might end up spending $25 for nothing.
I assume you haven't been having the "check engine" light come on? Have you noticed any dead spots or dirtiness in the TPS (throttle position sensor), possibly showing up in funky/weird takeoffs from a stop as you push on the accelerator pedal slowly?
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I've seen this problem in older Legacys and Imprezas, it is usually the purge control solenoid sticking open and allowing too much gasoline vapor to be drawn in from the charcoal canister, causing a rich running condition (car doesn't want to idle, small amounts of black smoke, etc). It usually clears up after a minute or two of driving.
The fix is to replace the bad purge control solenoid, I believe this is the part number: 14774AA351
Hope this helps,
~NanoSoob
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I don't remember where I got my information, but I recall reading somewhere that all 2.2 liter Imprezas were autos in 1995.
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I e-mailed the seller to request some pictures of the car, and he sent me three...
I don't think I'll be getting the car (significant other conflict) but maybe someone else would be interested.
Diesel Powered Subi?
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
The VW diesel engines in Europe are newer technology than the ones in the U.S., although I don't know exactly how many years ahead they are. They have been using Pumpe Duse engines for a few years more than in the U.S. (we just got them with the 2004 model year), and the P.D. engine might not be suitable for biodiesel use (there is still debate). The P.D. engine produces higher injection pressure than the older TDI engine and much higher than the old IDI engines...
Here is the biodiesel FAQ from Fred's TDIclub: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=776687&an=0&page=0#776687
As far as turbos for offroading: I don't have any experience with the older VW diesels, but the '99-'03 TDI engines spool the turbo at about 1200 rpm and max torque is produced at 1800 rpm.
If anyone manages to implant a diesel in a Subaru I'll be a happy man. I bought a VW diesel for the mileage, but I truly miss driving my subaru everyday (though I do get to drive it on the weekends).
~NanoSoob