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Stormy

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    Wilton, NH

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  1. A new O2 sensor didn't fix the problem... I think the way I should go is to get some diagnostic software. Any sugestions? This looks prety good. Has anyone else tried it? http://www.obdscan.net/
  2. I'm a little confused... In the service manual it looks like the coil and ignitor are the same. I don't see the ignitor against the firewall
  3. Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Plus it's the least expensive I was also thinking about doing that grounding mod to see if that will help. By the sounds of it, I defiantly couldn't hurt! I would have to go to a different dealer to have the scan tool hooked up at $79/hour. For the same price I can swap out the O2 sensor and eliminate that as a cause. Good input though!
  4. The ECU has not been replaced but has been reprogrammed (so they say). I did locate a used ECU at a salvage yard in MA for $100. I didn't know if there was more than one version for 2002. Didn't want to create more problems for myself. www.car-part.com only lists one but they aren't always correct. What sucks is the dealer has no legal obligation to fix this. There is no lemon law in NH for used cars past their factory warrenty. You buy it, you own it... simple as that. At this point the dealer wants to put as much distance between them and this problem as possible.
  5. Well, the dealer where I purchased the car has turned thier back on me. The service manager even said that they have a morral oblegation to fix this problem. Now they are saying without a CEL, there's nothing we can do. I asked if they could connect the subaru monitor and actually trouble shoot the problem. They said "we're not going to do that". I have papers that say they confirmed there is a problem. Meanwhile, this thing is stalling about once a week and idles low when it's warmed up... My wifes 00' OBW shows none of these problems - ever! 120K problem free miles. On top of all the other things I have done and the dealer has done, I'm going to change the O2 sensor and next will be the Intake air temp and pressure sensor. If anyone has ANY ideas on what else I can do to target this problem, please speak up. Let the part swapping begin
  6. Not sure if this issue is related but if I drive with cruse control on and pop it out of gear, the rpm's fly up until I shut it off. My wifes OBW doesn't do that. It will shut off when popped out of gear...
  7. My thoughts are that it's related with movement and shifter position... thats why I'm asking about the NPS. If its not, I'm thinking ECU.
  8. I talked to the parts department of another dealer and they said the TPS hardly ever fails... The only thing I've done with the TPS is clean the contacts.
  9. Latest update... I did some driving test and heres what I have. If I'm driving at about 45mph, put the clutch in and leave it in gear and come to a stop, the RPM's go down to 650~ and stay there (or if I wait about 10 seconds rpm's will drop). If I put the shifter in neutral when stopped, the RPM's will drop down to 350~ and the car will struggle to stay running. Things that I have done: Fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, plugs, wires, cleaned the TB, AIC, cats, Sea Foam cleaning with very little positive affect. What is strange is that it almost always happenes in neutral, and rarely happenes when I come to a stop in gear. One more thing... When I warm the car up in the morning in neutral, it goes through it's normal higher RPM cycle. As the engine gets warmer, the RPM's slowly drop down to the 350~ mark. Would faulty neutral position switch have anything at all to do with this??? One other thing... On my ride home from work the other nihgt I tried a few more things. 1. If I take the car out of any gear while moving and put it in neutral, the RPM's drop. If I shift back into gear (any gear for that matter) The RPM's go back to normal. 2. This is not the case when I'm stopped. So as long as I'm moving above a rolling speed (2-3 MPH) the RPM's will return to ~650 when put back into any gear. When stopped, even in gear, the RPM's drop to ~350 I'm stumped...
  10. "PN/PS (Park Neutral Position Switch)- This switch senses if the transmission is in park or neutral. The PCM adjusts the engines idle based on this input. The engine WILL run without this input." I found this here http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/4lswap/ Anyone know if this applies to any vehicle with a PN/PS?
  11. So I did some more "testing" on my idle problem. If I'm driving at about 45mph, put the clutch in and leave it in gear and come to a stop, the RPM's go down to 650~ and stay there. If I put the shifter in neutral when stopped, the RPM's will drop down to 350~. Would faulty neutral position switch have anything at all to do with this???
  12. The connector is Grey with 2 wires coming from it. One is brown with a yellow stripe and the other is green with a black stripe.
  13. Hi, I've been having some issues with low idle on my 02 legacy gt. I noticed that a plug located under the air box was wrapped with electrical tape. I think it goes to this switch. Is there a chance that this might be causing my problems? Thanks, Stormy
  14. 2002 Legacy GT, manual tranny: Does anyone know what the wires under the center console are for or what they power? I just noticed a blue male to white female connector unplugged from each other when I pulled the e-brake up. Any help with this would be great!
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