vintagejoe

Anyone ever experienced this? As soon as I remove foot from brake, car starts fine. Ya, I know--- duh "then just develop the habit of keeping foot off brake when starting" I'M just asking and wondering if this is a sign of an imminent starter failure. Thank you

Driver's window falters in the raising mode (only). This happens intermittantly. How easy is it to remove and replace the switch? Or can it just be cleaned? A friend examined the problem - he's sure it's the switch and not the channel for the glass. If replacement is called for, must I do the whole unit - or just the one for the driver's window.

This car has 165K Has begun making groaning sounds from back when I start off at low speeds-- not brake related. Local mechanic said that the rear strut (s?) are defunct. Here's my question: What's the bad news if I try to nurse another 15K out of the car. Is there a danger point? Beyond that it runs fine-- mostly.

'98 Legacy sedan 146K The driver's side rear brake started, all of a sudden, making a grinding noise as I would brake to a stop. I pulled the wheel off and discovered that the rusty, upper edge of the backing plate had broken off and a piece of it was hanging across the disc. So I removed the offending piece and the I also removed the rest of backing plate that was the furthest gone. Now I don't hear the sound and the brakes are working fine. As this is a car to "drive into the ground" please write back and tell me: --Is this a safety issue? --Is the backing plate crucial? --If it is important, can I go w/o it for a while? ****Please write back ASAP as I urgently need the car this week. Many thanks

'98 Legacy sedan 146K The driver's side rear brake started, all of a sudden, making a grinding noise as I would brake to a stop. I pulled the wheel off and discovered that the rusty, upper edge of the backing plate had broken off and a piece of it was hanging across the disc. So I removed the offending piece and the I also removed the rest of backing plate that was the furthest gone. Now I don't hear the sound and the brakes are working fine. As this is a car to "drive into the ground" please write back and tell me: --Is this a safety issue? --Is the backing plate crucial? --If it is important, can I go w/o it for a while? ****Please write back ASAP as I urgently need the car this week. Many thanks

Thank you so much. I'll print out the message and bring it to my local mechanic. He is the best in our town. Your help has certainly saved me the dreadful trip to the subaru dealer. How's this for a dreadful scenario: if my wife goes to the subaru dealer with this problem--- we're looking at about an $1100 bill.

When car has been driven for at least 30 to 40 minutes, when I slow down--I hear a rather loud metalic noise when coasting---(doesn't happen under braking) from rear wheel area. I had front caliper replaced recently, and mechanic checked rear brakes and gave okay. One other thing, I brought it by him, all warmed up, recently and he measured temperature at wheel opening---120 degrees from both front wheels and 230 degrees from both rears??? Any ideas???

The car has 125K and the pads haven't been replaced in ages. The car is an auto trans. Guess it's time to get the pads replaced. Many thanks VJ

There was a time when the squeal came from front brakes in forward and reverse. Mechanic said that there were some small stones causing this---sound went away for a while. Now, the sound is back when applying the brakes in reverse. it is really loud! Any idea what causes this?? Many thanks

Many thanks for replies No, car never stalls. The check engine light has been on chronically I've had my local mechanic check code 2X also the Subaru dealer has checked code-BUT, it's always been related to "Evap" code and I've paid them , gone on my way, CEL has always come back w/ in a few days. AND YES, I always tighten the gas cap fully. I don't know what to do next, as when I bring it in to the shop, the problem is dormant. So, I'll have the code checked one more time--then, if necessary, I'll go to the dealer.

This is a legacy sedan 2.2 w/ 125K. I'll be driving along and, all of a sudden, the car starts to run very roughly--engine noise level increases, car shudders -I feel vibration through the steering column ,car shakes and then loses power. Usually, I slow down, and have the patience to "drive through' the problem. It usually gets better after 5 minutes or so. This has been going on for 4-5 months. I brought it to the Subaru Dealer---they couldn't replicate it. So far I've replaced the plugs, ignition wires, fuel filter. At times the problem disappears for weeks and then reappears. One local mechanic suggested (back in May) that I possibly got a bad batch of gasoline. My theory has been that when it happens, if I put in a can of fuel injector cleaner, it seems to help. Now I'm not sure. Is there possibly gunk in the tank that dislodges once in a while. Any advice will be appreciated. I'd like to fix this before I have to return to the Sub dealer. I know that'll cost big bucks. HELP!

I've been told by a mechanic that it is a 2.5 Another one said it's definately a 2.2 Which is it? Is there a place on the car where it's notated?

This CEL and same code has been re-apearing for 3-4 months. I've had it looked at 4 times. A few days after it's been reset, it's back! Periodically, my car has run roughly----but the light appears even when it's running okay. 1. What should I do? 2. Is there a way to test the gas cap before I buy a new one? 3. Has anyone else had this problem?

My Legacy sedan has had the "Check Engine" light off on for the past few months. Each time I took it to local mechanic, he said the code was for the "Evap System" he fixed it but the light came back w/in a day or 2. Most recent glitch was when I was on the highway and it really began to misfire----------------the problem went away and then it came back w/ a vengance----------to the extent that I was feeling vibration in front wheels (I feared I had flat tire. It cooled off for 30 minutes and I cautiously drove home on back roads. I have: got new plugs New ignition wires New fuel filter New air filter ***Finally, this is probably unrelated, but I decided to throw it in. There is a high pitched squeal from front end when I am in reverse. This also happened in drive but local mechanic found small stones in disc area and the "going forward" sound did get eliminated. PS It looks like I'm headed to the Subaru dealer---good bye vacation fund money!! Thank you car has 125K

My Legacy has given me some rough starting during the many days of rainy weather here in the NE. So, I went to the local foreigh parts store and got a new set of plug wires.However, all four new wires are similar to extent that the fittings that go onto the coil(?) at a right angle. The original wires have a "straight" fitting on the left and only the right angle fittings on the right. Should I return them? Should I go to the accursed dealer for these wires.? I fear they'd be too close to the manifold---for some reason Subaru puts a small set of clamps on the right and not on left??

'98 Legacy 120 K Has been fine. Here's the chronology 1. Last week the check engine light came on--I added fuel and the lite went away for a few days. 2. 2 days ago the check engine lite came on again--I decided to wait and see if it would go away again. BUT, yesterday--I was on my way to work and after about 20 minutes the engine started running very roughly-to the point I feared I'd have to pull over. So I slowed down and although the CE lite was still on, the engine was okay for rest of trip to work. 3. Last nite, on way back from work, almost the same scenario--I got home. ---------------------- ANY IDEA what might be wrong?? Fuel filter (original)?? Emission? Oxy sensor? Oh no, not the dreaded catalytic converter?? Help Please My most trusted independent mechanic just closed his shop

Dealer wanted $250 for headlight assembly for 98 Legacy. This place, auto light warehouse, gave great, quick service and only cost $123. I did pay $98 to dealer for a sidelight assembly before I discovered this source---their price was $48. www.autolightwarehouse.com

I flunked inspection sticker, due to tech's inability to adjust the driver's side headlight. "Long story short":-I cracked the side light and in the process I guess I snapped a plastic part of the headlight inner housing. So, I had to pay $97.00 to dealer for the sidelight assembly. Now, dealer wants $200 for the headlight assembly! Ouch!!! Is there a cheaper way to deal with this annoyance? Is there a reputable source for used parts over the web? All the salvage yards near my home are out of Legacy's

Manufacturer recall/service bulletin issued Recall #WWP991 Engine cooling system conditioner. Just what is this stuff??? Is it "stop leak" type product? Is my 1998 Legacy sedan prone to this same ailment? Should I get this product for it?

I've read a lot about different engines having cylinder head gasket problems. Can someone give me idea of the best years/engines and the most risky ones? I'm interested in either a Legacy or a Forester Thank you

I've been searching for a good used one. I wonder if I can get a decent price on a new 04 and possibly get good dealer financing Has anyone seen any dealers wirh new 04s?

To Glenn and other responders--thank you for your input. I'll hold the line as long as I have to. I've about given up on the dealers-mostly. They are invariably $1000 to $2000 more than private parties. I have reliable mechanics to check out used cars from private parties. Joe

I'd like to spend around $12,000 Here's my set of questions: 1. Am I right in assuming that most Subaru dealers price their used Foresters at a higher than fair price? 2. I plan to set up a 5 year note on this car, so I have to get 5 X 25,000 relatively trouble free miles from the car to avoid ending up owing significant money at end of 5 years--is this possible in my price range? 3. In past I've gotten around 200,000 miles from prior subarus--so, has the Forester got this potential? 4. Are there any models or years to stay away from-I spoke w/ a guy this AM when I voted, he said to avoid standard shift-as the clutch wears out! 5. Finally, I'd like to get the newest possible Forester with the lowest mileage------am I destined for a 2001 with 50,000 0r a 2002 with 30,000 miles? Many thanks Vintage Joe (On my 3rd Subie 1980 GL---1900Legacy Tsi--1998 Legacy L)

My AC compressor is very noisy--it makes a clangy and tinny sound. What is cost to fix? Best to repair or replace? Should I have dealer do it or local reputable independent repair shop?

It started with car's AC losing effectiveness plus a sorta gasping sound at times from under the dash when the unit was running poorly. Now, there's quite a noteworthy clanky//tinny sound from engine when the AC unit is on and the fan goes off and on. I wonder if it's the clutch on AC compressor---now this next point may be irrelevant, but there sems to be some redish dust accumulating on the surfaces beneath the AC unit. Hmmm....It does sound expensive. Here's my 2 questions. 1.Am I better off with a reputable independent repair shop fixing it--or should I go to dealer---as they have experience and expertice??? 2. Any idea what balpark price is for such a repair??? Can this be a DIY job??