su-version

I'm not using the OEM snorkel/air box and need a place to install the air temp sensor. Does it matter if the sensor is located between the TB opening and the K&N filter?

I registered and posted a few times here last year but didn't have much to show or related Subaru questions until now. BTW, I noticed I can now add pics so I gave you the quick version. I have 100's of pic's. . Back on track,I dropped a EZ30D w/ a TY75 5 speed into an VW/Porsche 914 which is a mid engined car. I've started the car 10-12 times but never more than a 45 seconds at a time. I haven't made an exhaust system yet so it's loud. I'm at the point where I need the input of some Suby gurus. 1st question; I noticed a 2 pole connector adjacent to the TB which I believe is for the air temp sensor. I did not get the air breather from the donor car, a 2003 LL Bean, so I want to know if I need to connect this to a sensor before the TB or can it be by-passed? 2nd question; I found 3 ground wire from the ECU to control the radiator fans but my set up uses only 2 grounds. A hi and a low. Any thoughts. TIA, Kent

Wow, I just found this forum. Hope someone answers you. I just bought the rear one from them of Amazon for $35. I did a conversion also.

A quick update with a link to pic's. I went with the EZ30D and a M5. Most of the Suby related pic's will be towards the end. Early pic's are some rust repair and chassis stiffening which may not be of interest to the Suby folks. I am currently chopping the harness to work with the 914. http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/76-914/library/73-914%20Conversion?sort=2&page=1

Any input or preferences on clutch mfg's.? Is Exedy any good? The few Exedy reviews I've found discuss they're chattering characteristics or taking 2000+ miles to seat??? TIA. Kent

Well don't go anywhere. You sound like you know your stuff and I certainly don't. I had hoped to avoid most of this by swapping out all of the wiring & ECU from the donor. Using what I can, cutting out the rest. Hopefully unrelated codes can be flashed out?? BTW, this is all going into an old Porsche. Even the donor car's steering wheel. I know. Wrong forum for this. Just got off on a tangent.

Great! I'll bolt her together.

I've got an '03 H-6 from an LL Bean mated to a '03 turbo 5 speed and noticed there is no pin that indexes the flywheel/crank together. Is it OK to run it this way? TIA, kent

This is a great board. I hate getting flamed for nubee questions. 914world.com is like this place. Lots of like minded helpful guys. Thanks

Good point Gary, that is right where the pump was. I drove it around the block before I took it down and it has sweet engine. I could see drops at the lower corners of the cam/valve covers after running and for a few days after. Those bolts were loose also which kinda worries me. I'm sure they contributed or caused the leaks but why were they loose? I hope those holes aren't enlarged. I've got some anarobic seal left over from a Porsche rebuild that I'll use. The sealant that I see on the lower covers appears to be grey. Thanks for the tip on the other seals. Good info from a great site. Thx

I removed the running EZ30 from the donor car and need to re-seal it. It appears to leak from the corners of the valve covers and the right side of the timing chain cover. Is there a seal kit that I should get or just individual seals? Is subaruparts.com a good resource? Which sealant should I use? Where can I get info on the proper sequence to remove and torque the 50+ timing chain bolts? TIA, kent

Type "L" soft copper will work harden. More importantly, I would replace that pipe w/ like materials. Check your galvanic tables. You'll find that copper is the more noble of the two materials. i.e. it will get eaten up.

oops, double post deleted.

Thx Nevin but I got today. I will view the video though. Hey Dave, is that rust on the crossover tube beneath the radiator? I've got rust right in the middle on mine. I wondered what leaked above & center? Anyway, I was looking at the spot the whole time. With old eyes and poor lighting it looked to be part of the engine as it was the same color. The plug was missing and I was looking for something black. I struggled with pulling the alt/pump/comp because I was trying to disassemble them from the comp 1st & moving over. Once I started with the pump 1st the others followed revealing the hole to the "blind". I decided to pull the intake manifold after realizing my 12mm was a tad too long to work w/ a universal joint. Next up is getting that tranny separated getting the engine out and getting some new seals in it.

I'm feeling kinda dumb at this point. I could not see the plug or opening so I tried to pull the cond/alt/pump as a unit, to no avail. I guess I need to remove the intake runners before I can remove the cond/alt/pump assm??? Am I missing something basic or on the right track? I did everything but run an inspection camera up under the intake. I'll hit it again this evening.

Thx Dave, I wouldn't have looked beneath the intake. I did pull the starter to no avail. I'm going back out there and find that booger. I need to leave the engine intact until it's out. But if it gives me any trouble I'm taking your advice. I see you have the same vehicle. Do you need any parts for yours? Everything worked on this car when I received it. This thing is going to the recyclers in a few weeks.

I'm to the point of pulling the engine but I need to separate the tranny first. So I have to ask. Where is the access slot to remove the flex plate/torque converter. First time working on Subies and I can't seem to locate a Haynes or Chilton's for the 2003 LL Bean so don't flame me. I did manage to get a Chilton for Legacy, Outback and Forester but nothing about the LL Bean or the EZ30 in it. TIA, kent

Can't thank you enough for this timely info. kent

I am stripping a 2003 LL Bean for the engine and whatever else I can re-purpose into another car but that is a different thread. I won't be using the emission system on the fuel tank. My question is this; are these controllers NO or NC switches? Any reasonably priced wiring diagrams for a 2003 LL Bean available? Hopefully I can jump these. BTW, I did order a Chilton but my car ain't in it. TIA, kent

I've heard there are specific seal kits available for this. Any tips/pitfalls in the re-seal. BTW, I haven't found any data on the proper sequence for loosening the timing cover but I've read that it will warp if removed incorrectly. Also, who would you recommend for the seal kits? Quality being the same, I prefer doing business with member vendors whenever possible. TIA, kent

All good tips and greatly appreciated. I began removing the wiring harness for rear lights this afternoon and will begin working my way forward. If this car wasn't wrecked I'd keep it. I may find one of these later to keep. This is a nice car and I hate gutting it but..........it will live on and it's soul shall remain free of the crusher. If any of you guy's need any glass, interior, light, wheels, etc. just holler.

Well Geez, that took forever but guess who got a donor car, finally. I received my 2003 LL Bean Legacy Outback yesterday. It has 178K and purrs like a kitten. Oil leak on the right bank but no problem. I needed a running car w/o major issues to do this transplant. Once it's installed and the bugs worked out I will pull the engine and reseal or rebuild it. I'm going to take a look at using the auto tranny but I might get into some fitment issues. We'll see. I haven't been Idle, though. I have installed a radiator and twin fan assm which required fabbing the plenum and sealing the airbox (appx 100 hours). Hopefully the holes that I drilled in the fender wells will be large enough to exhaust the radiator/fans. If not the front floor pan will get a few louvres' which should pull any additional amounts od air required. The rear suspension was beefed up with new Bilstein Shocks, progressive springs and rebuilt brake system to handle the additional weight of the 6 cyl, water/radiator, a/c and whatever else I throw at it. I'll reuse any gage or accessory that will go and hopefully end up with a Porsche that retains the Suby factory ECU and can be driven into a Suby shop for most repairs.

I posted a bunch of pic's here http://s1238.beta.photobucket.com/user/76-914/library/73-914%20Conversion I'll try to get some descriptions with the future shots. What you will see is the car having the existing drive train being removed; floor pan cleanup; interior reinforcement panels being fitted, installed, welded, ground and primed. The firewall between your back as you sit and the engine had a couple of spots that were cut out and awaiting 20ga panel to repair.

Bet ya thought I got lost. Nope. Not as far along as I'd like but............ I sold the drive train 3 weeks ago and jumped in head first. I notice that I am allowed to post images but not sure how to do it. My pic's are in a docs file so I'm not sure about the URL address it needs. Maybe I should post them to photo bucket and just post that link. So the 3 stiffeners are welded in the cabin frame and primed. Some additional rust was discovered on the firewall immediately behind the seats and cut out. Awaiting some 20ga steel to make the repair panels and weld in place. Additional reinforcement will be needed on the trailing arms but that will come later as I need to decide upon which direction the suspension will go. So It looks like the next step is to plumb the car for some water cooling. Air cooled engines are fine for aircraft where running conditions are fairly constant (except TO and Landing) but it's tricky in cars. That's putting it nicely. I'm looking forward to some Subaru reliability after I get the bugs out. I'll come back and edit this with a site address for the pic's.

Wasn't me. If you do as many hair brained things as I do you get thick skin. I'll post some pic's of the engine pull tonite. Not very exciting but it will show the basic platform for this conversion. I've got a feeling this will be time consuming. EDIT: Looks like I won't be posting any pic's. I just read the posting rules and I'm NOT allowed any post attachments. I think I'll wit out any probationary period before I start to post on the transplant. It would bore the hell out of everyone w/o pic's!