Superoo

1987 GL, my favorite and only Sube. Anyway what you are discribing is classic vacuum leak symptoms. With all the vacuum lines on a stock 87 it could be a little tough to find but somewhere you've got a vac hose loose or cracked. At least that's my guess. The primary indicator to me (and the reason I don't think that it's the disty) is the fluctuating idle (lean air fuel mixture) AND off throttle backfire. I'd bet if you do some searches on finding a vacuum leak you should be able to turn up some techniques for locating your problem. Good luck! LenHorn

I'm a fan of Valvoline Durablend (10w30 for my GL). My '86 Chev Suburban has 300k miles on the original motor (ya it's getting tired) and has run Durablend since Valvoline came out with it in about 1990. My 87 GL wagon has about 120K on a Jap replacement engine (assuming 50K on it when I got it) and runs like a top, uses zero oil, no smoke, etc. Durablend is a petroleum/synthetic blend and in my mind provides the best of both. I used to use Castrol and I know a lot of people like it, but back in the mid 80s I got a Kawasaki dealer bulletin stating not to use it in the 900 Ninjas because they were having problems with cam lobe wear. I have not used it since. That was a lot of years ago.... probably not an issue now. Tim, have you talked to CCR about your issue. I've always been under the impression that synthetic shoud not be used in a new motor because of the ring seat problem. Frugil is a good thing but I wouldn't take the chance that the synthetic might cause a long term problem by not allowing the correct initial wear patterns in the motor. Kiss your $22 good by and go get some dino oil.

Very good advice. I'll be sure to shop around. Thanks for the links.

Toybuilder, Would you mind sharing info on your parts sources. OEM? Online? Local store? I've got an ea82 long block sitting in the garage for a winter project. How much $ should I budget for parts? Head rebuild? I plan on the same process as your going through now so any help would shorten my learning curve. Thanks

GeneralDisorder, My 87 does the same thing you discribe. The problem is the third gear syncro. When down shifting to 3rd, if I double clutch... no grind. You may know this trick (double clutch), but here goes. From 4th quickly clutch and shift to neutral. Let the clutch out with the shifter in neutral and give the throttle a quick blip (should raise the rpm approx 800-1000 rpm from where you were when in 4th). Now clutch and shift from neutral into third. With practice, done correctly and smoothly, it's two quick pumps of the clutch pedal with a blip of the throttle between and you get both the input and output shafts of the transmission spinning approx the same rpm and the gears will mesh w/o a grind. Works for any downshift where you grind. Try it you'll like it! Superoo

It won't work at all. I'll give you 20 dolla. Actually if you get the adapter (about $35 I think) it should work fine as is on your EA81. My Weber kit (87 GL) from piercemanifold.com was around $330. That included the carb to manifold adapter, gaskets, etc. On my 87 w/ AC there were some clearance issues with the compressor but nothing serious.

Good points also John. If Pacerven ends up where I was (couldn't get brakes released) then a puller is really the only option. The small parts that could get damaged are available and replaceable and relatively inexpensive. Getting the drums turned is a good idea and results in better brakes when the work is done. Now that I think about it, what the heck, use the puller.

I DO NOT recommend using a drum puller unless you have first released the tension like Craig is talking about. The brakes can be adjusted tighter by turning the "wheel" but to release them you have to "push the release mechanism". At one end of the little oval access hole is a toothed "ramp" that engages the adjuster and holds the shoes spread. With a small screw driver you should be able to push this ramp away from the adjuster and let the shoes retract. I figured out how it works when I installed rear discs and after using a puller. Good thing I was installing discs because by the time I got the drum off with the puller I had bent/destroyed several small parts that secure the brake shoes and springs. Maybe some one can provide a better discription of how this is done.

Now you've given Toybuilder (and everyone) something he can use. You are obviously very knowledgable. I guess my "issue" is more about my perception of your reply. I saw it as a critique of someones planned modification with no real help given (in my opinion). Later Len

"Put that larger swaybar on the front without doing anything to the back and you will be the Plow King. Expect massive understeer." Obviously the above statement is like he said "just an opinion". I find it hard to believe that going 1mm thicker on a front sway bar is going to create a "plow king". The car doesn't have a rear sway bar now and with an 18mm front they don't handle badly. You may even see some improvement with only the 1mm increase in front sway bar size. Someone else said it's going to handle like garbage either way "because it's a Subaru" so why bother (just another opinion?). FYI to mount a rear bar on a car that hasn't ever had one you'll need the suspension arms, or a least the brackets off the arms of a car with a rear sway bar to weld on your suspension arms. Given that your modifying a wagon (I'm assuming a wagon has more weight over the rear axle than say an RX) then you might get the best performance from a slightly larger rear bar, i.e. the RX bar in front and the XT bar in back. Just my 2. LenHorn