busdriver
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Posts posted by busdriver
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I got that ecu for ya if your interested. Send me your offer. Thanks
I'm glad you're OK to post about it. These really are great cars.This winter has been weird. Over in Iowa, I decided to get a set of Blizzaks this winter. I've never had snow tires before, and I was able to get around just fine without them in the snow, but... the car zipping across the highway 1/4 mile in front of me, totally out of control, at 50-60mph... got my attention. The highway had quietly gotten very icy, and while I still had plenty of traction to keep myself on the road, when I hit the brakes to slow down & try to help, I realized that I didn't have much excess traction to do things like evade or throw the car into a ditch if needed. Not that I can really afford the snow tires, but they're cheaper than a collision.
Is the car totalled? And... if so... what condition is the engine in? I know there's not a lot of room between the front of the car & the engine, but if you're parting it out, I might be interested in the engine, or at least the turbo bits (and front crossbar, and ECU, and wiring harness, etc).
-=Russ=-
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You guys are funny, I didn't really open the hood or anything. I'll probably go do that tomorrow, cause I need my crap out of there cause she's at the junkyard. I'll check it out. I just put a bunch of work into her to. What a shame.
Yes she was totalled, I'm thinking it was a good idea to have the spare in it's place on the engine, cause I think that helped slow things down a bit. The battery looked good...maybe cause it's brand fricken new
. But then again it was kinda hanging out the front of the car. I have a brand new radiator, never used still in the box if anyone needs one. I bought it cause mine was turning green, and there's nothing worse then not having a radiator when you need one.Faced with the dilemna of whether or not to pull my prize VW GTI VR6 out of moth balls is a hard decision. If I do...it will certainly have Haakapulita's (for the uninformed, Finnish snow/ice racing tires) and if I can find 'em...studs.
I don't want this baby getting loose on me. And at 250 hp, it gets downright silly.
I already miss her.
There's something to be said for a rugged car. Sometimes those crumple zones just crumple too far. Glad no one was seriously injured.Dibs on the rear brake disk setup.
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On my way home from work today, the roads where trecherious as can be, freezing rain, slush...you get the picture.
I saw a car off the road about 50 yards ahead of me once I rounded the curve, and oncoming traffic, and that nasty 3" drop off the edge of the road.
And as soon as I looked back up from that edge, my car slid off the road tossing me into a nasty shoulder, I tried to recover, but it was just too icy.
I missed the first car by a fraction, and hit the second car head on. I'm alive, the women in the other car is alive. So things aren't so bad.
But my soob is gone. And it allowed me to walk away unscratched. She was pinned in her Dodge Neon.
She had air bags...I didn't.
I've never had an accident before, and have always been able to correct for others poor driving by being evasive. Not today.
I'm still in shock and not sure what I'm feeling, but I don't like it and I feel terrible about allowing my vehicle to get into such a situation. At least we're alive, and I could still pick my son up from daycare (in my wife's car).
Please drive careful out there.
Peace
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Sounds like a real Scooby Doo mystery
I don't know much about them, but I'd love to find a wiring diagram for mine so I can set it up correctly.
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Cool Thank you. I'm gonna work on it tonight.
I changed out mine for a new one a few months ago.It was easy to get at.
I pulled the plastic panel off the is right below the glove box.
This exposed the blower motor. IIRC it had 4 10mm bolts holding it place and one of them also held the resistor pack in place.
A replacement motor was 35 ish from checkers.
-=fred=-
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After reading some threads about the "third eye" headlight on older soobs...I'm curious. What was that actually intended for?
I've heard it was a passing light, and a fog/driving light.
I think they're kinda cool and have a certain James Bondish thing going on.
I wish mine had one.
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Hello Fellow Soob People
My blower motor is making a vibration and sounding bad. How hard is it to locate remove and go through this unit. I've had such wonderful luck rebuilding different things on my soob, and I think this unit needs my help.
I beleive it's underneath the pass. side dash since thats where all the ruckus is coming from, and I haven't been able to tear into anything yet, just looking for some advice.
Thanks
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It is leaking from the stem area where it connects to the smaller rubber tube. When I removed the rubber tube, the piece disintagrated in my hands. I hate rust.
did you verrify that its leaking out of the pump or the line as Caleb suggested???I would hate to install a new pump and then have the leaky line still pee all over.
just need to put the car on jackstands or ramps and crawl under it.
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Well I went to the salvage yard and they just towed in an 89' wagon with F/I. I took my leaky pump with me to compare and they look identicle. So for $40.00 I took the chance and installed it. Car seems to run fine, what could happen if it isn't a "turbo" fuel pump? I'm thinking it could run lean, but wouldn't the ecu adjust for that and perhaps go into "limp" mode?
The pump wasn't much better then the one I had, but I need to get home after work, so it will have to work. If anyone has a decent one laying around I'd be willing to buy it as long as it doesn't exceed the value of my car! Like the brand new one does. $225.00 x an 18 year old rusty soob=
. My mechanic won't even touch my soob anymore. He says it's to far gone...I say " the seats don't even wiggle when I close and open the doors!" "She's still good for 50,000.did you verrify that its leaking out of the pump or the line as Caleb suggested???I would hate to install a new pump and then have the leaky line still pee all over.
just need to put the car on jackstands or ramps and crawl under it.
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For some reason the parts store is having a hard time finding a fuel pump for the GL10. They list everything as "exc. turbo" which mine is a turbo. Any ideas if a non turbo will work. Or would kicking in the turbo throw the engine into a lean condition with a non- turbo fuel pump.
Thats where your fuel pump is located. Either it is leaking or one of the hoses has a hole in it. Itrs really easy to get out, but before you go riping things apart, it would be a good idea to find out specifically where it is leaking from. -
Hi everyone,
I have been noticing a bad fuel smell in the GL10, so looking underneath her this morning I noticed gas pouring all over the place. It seems to be coming from the passenger side right in front of the rear wheel, kind of where the trailing arm(?) for the rear axle connects at the body.
What is this? Fuel pump? I see an electric connector going to whatever is in there. And the gas is pouring out pretty bad, so it's a hazard.
I don't know didly about the soobs, but I'm learning.
Please help as soon as possible, Thank you.
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Here's a weird thing that I did when my starter stopped working, and I was poor...ooops I still am, and I had more time and bicycle grease then money. Anyways I took my starter completely apart and cleaned it inside and out, put it back together with grease where it needed to be and boom, 20k miles later...still works every morning regardless of how cold it gets.
Just got done with my head gasket job, started it up and it ran great, so I think I was sucsessful. Came back to start it up and it wouldnt turn over. All that happenes is a high pitch buzz comes from the starter motor, 5 seconds later it stops and a lower pitch buzz comes from around the starter. I would assume this is a bad starter but since I just did a head gasket job and disconnected a lot of wires I thought it might be a bad connection but I can't find one. Anyone know what it could be. Also how do I hot wire the starter, do I just connect wires to where the battery cables connect to the starter?Thanks
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I've got a rumble in the truck, so I tried to wiggle either back wheel and sure enough the passenger side is loose as a goose. So do you guys think I should try torquing it, or does it for sure need a new bearing...and are the bearings really $80 a piece for the gl10? That's the cheapest I could find them in town.
I should add she's never really been worked on wheel bearing wise and she's got 140 on the ticker. The repair man was just doing the brakes and he said she isn't really worth fixin cause she's so rusted out. I disagree, in fact I was pissed cause I told him to replace the wheel bearings if they appeared bad. Now I still have to tear the thing apart and I won't have time to do that til next year!!
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As far as snow tires, I prefer the Nokian Haakapalita over the blizzak. The Nokians are a normal rubber compound unlike the Blizzak, so the Noki's wear better and last longer. Noki's also seem to get much better traction on ice, even though Blizzak has the micro cellular foam, I didn't find any advantages. Actually the Blizzak seemed to have less braking traction then the Noki as well. Noki's are made in Finland where they get a sh*t load of snow, kinda like where I live. In fact we had our first 12 inches of the fun stuff lastnight...Happy happy Joy joy.
As far as the starter, I'm using the compustar 5100 or something like that. I didn't have the guy hook all the extra crap up like hood, and power locks etc. We just went the direct route so she will fire up and get warm. My 87 GL10 is my second car/ winter beater so all the fancy stuff wasn't needed. But it would impress the ladies if all that sh*t was wired. You can find wiring diagrams on the internet supporting the install for most cars, that's all my buddy does and he owns the shop! If it's something he's unfamiliar with he just searches the net for it. Good Luck and have fun in the snow...I will be!!!
Cold, snowing/sleeting, icy, and I'm having a blast.
This is my first full winter with my '87 GL (5 speed, D/R 4WD). I'm really looking forward to it.
While it's probably a bit late now for it, I've been looking at getting a set of ice tires. I drive pretty much entirely city/highway, and while the roads get cleared, they often glaze over. So I'm thinking a set of Blizzak ice compound tires would be a good set. Any other suggestions?
Also, how difficult is it to install a remote starter? As near as I can tell, the EA82s don't have a clutch safety switch, or a neutral switch. At least, both of my Subarus have let me start it in gear without problems. I always park it in neutral with the parking brake firmly applied, so I'm not too concerned about it wandering off when I try to start it. However, for a shop to install the needed sensors & such, it's going to be $300-$400 (clutch sensor, neutral sensor, hood position switch, etc). I can get a simple unit for $99. Is installation a pretty straightforward task?
Thanks!
-=Russ=-
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I agree and that somebody will probably be me!
The proper fix is to timesert the holes, reinstall factory studs and OEM gaskets. Some fixes are effective but remember that somebody else might have to work on the engine someday. Tapping it up to the next size is effective but the factory size works very well and tapping it out and not inserting it is only a temp fix usually.There are 4 holes because:
Its a casting made for multiple engine types.
Turbo uses the opposite holes as non, and Air Suction valve model cars use the additional holes for the plates to bolt onto. EA81 and EA82 carb'd engines from 81-86 or so utilize all 4 holes. Factory Y-pipes dont have the flip flanges but thats an excellent fix if you have that option go for it...just install the exhaust studs and nuts into those holes.
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Yeah for sure. People really are lookin at me.Nice to see this post on the night I break my exhaust stud and removed the threads from the other.2 bolts is plenty to hold the Y pipe on per side. The gasket is set up for a 2 bolt layout as well. I would flip the flanges, but some punk welded the flanges to the pipe at about 1/3 of the circumference, and did a ************y job of it too.
I'm going to cut the y pipe, turn each end 90 degrees, and weld it back together. Not having to bother with tapping and helicoiling the origional bolt holes is nice.
As a side note, the EA82's under no load with no y pipe sound cool. put a load on it though, run for cover!
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Well I think I made it obvious that the two bolts don't work for an extended duration of time since mine is not working. The one bolt is completely stripped and the other one is on it's way out. Thanks for the lead on the four bolt flanges.
If I can find the flanges I'll helicoil it so all four bolts are utilized. I can't see people autocrossing and rallying thru the woods expecting their exhaust systems to stay on.
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It makes sense to me to use all 4 bolts, and I cant imagine soob engineers thinking this is right and good. Anyone know where I could find some four bolt flanges?
*blinks*I've always seen 4 bolts/studs being used to hold my exhaust onto the engine.
If it's stripped, you could just helicoil it.
-=Russ=-
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I took my 87 GL10 into the muffler shop yesterday because she is getting loud. The muffler guy says "theres your problem one of the bolts fell out of the exhaust manifold". No problem because I found that bolt laying in my skidplate, well...the bolt hole is stripped out. Then I look closer and see four bolt holes, but only two are being used, so now I'm thinking what dumb a$$ did this manuever.
The muffler guy tells me that all the old soobs are like this and when you strip out one set of bolt holes, then you pivot the flange and use the other holes. What the hell is this! That's got to be the dumbest thing I've heard.
So does anyone make four hole flanges or do I have to find someone to make a pair for me? My car sounds like it's going to explode.
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I have to tell you guys this story....I went in my local Carquest shop and asked for a 22mm open end /box end wrench. After the guy got done spitting his chew into a mountain dew bottle, he asked me what I was workin' on. I told him I was replacing the O2 sensor in my car...not mentioning what type of car it was.
He told me that metric wrenches are extra cause noone uses them except those "Jap" cars and they are really hard to get. I mentoned to him that my buddies Chevy Silverado has a ton of metric bolts on it...and the guy told me word for word that I was full of sh*t and didn't know what I was talking about.
At this point I left the store before I was forced to knock someone out, cause this guy is a complete tool. End result, I went to NAPA and now they take pretty good care of me.
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Hi folks,
I need to do my rear wheel bearings on the 87 gl10. Anyone have any advice for me? I have never done them on a soob, so I'm not sure about the axle nut size or torque. Many Thanks in advance
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I've been having a problem losing fluid and poor braking as well, until I realized the rubber gasket has to be just perfect on the m.c. for it to seal correctly. it wasn't letting the system pressurize (if you will) and let fluid leak out. Just my two cents.
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Thanks, I appreciate the pics. I'm thinking my linkage looks different then that for some reason, but I'll know better after I cliimb under again.
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If someone has one, I need a picture of the shift linkage for my 87 gl10.
The rubber stabilizing piece at the rear of the linkage (underneath the passenger compartment) is gone and I need to figure out how to make something too stabilize the shifter knob. It's flopping around makes me crazy. I have searched the world over trying to locate this piece and NOONE seems to have what I need, or even know what it's called! I even went to our brand new subaru dealer and they acted like if it doesn't say STI or WRX they don't deal with it. Real Bozo's.
They thought it was funny that I'm even buying parts for my ol' soob. They recommended I trade her in on a new one.
A very sad day today
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Radiator is yours if you want it, I have $80.00 into it, so if you'll meet that, it's yours. Let me know.