busdriver
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Posts posted by busdriver
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A wagon, I assume? A trouble spot for the EA82 wagons is in the tailgate, where there is a connector that tends to melt and/or wires pull out. IIRC, the connector is near the gate latch mechanism (under neath the gate trim panel) and is "mounted" to one of the supports in that region.
You win the golden frosted donut!!! Thye connector was completely melted and the wire had broken away. Reconnected the wire and shazam! Juz like new.
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I have put new plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor into her. She was running pretty good except for a lite surging when going down the highway. I have tools, I just don't know where to start looking.ok I know you have been dealing with this for a while.what have you done/checked? what do you have to work with as far as trouble shooting tools?
it sounds like ignition from the description but it could be any thing really. start by determining whats good. then see whos left.
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My severe bucking problem is haunting me. I thought I had it solved with the gumout fuel inj. cleaner and the heet and the fuel filter but noooo. The soob still bucks like crazy. It seems to get much better after a good warm up, if I let it run for 10 minutes it seems ok. But if I jump in and go, then she don't go. Any ideas??? I'm new and stupid about soobs, but willing to learn! Thanks for your help.
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I have power across the entire grid, I beleive I can almost feel some heat radiating from the grid. I'll check the ground to make sure it's good, and then I'll check the tailgate connection. Thanks for the help.
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I checked my defrost to see if it was workin and there is power all over the place on it, yet it won't defrost the rear window. Any ideas about getting more juice to the window, defrosting more efficient / effectively. 87 subaru gl10t wagon. Thanks for your ahelp.
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Its been very cold here in Upper Michigan lately, and I probably haven't been letting da soob warm up enough, eh. So I'm making my way out of work yesterday, hop in da soob after juz 2 minutes of idle time to warm up and we start drivin. She hits about 2200 rpms and starts buckin like crazy. I pull over and look under da hood to see whats up. Nothin unusual there. So we starts off on our way and she bucks some more, and we pull over and listen to the idle some more and everything appears fine except for when she's drivin. So we start off one more time, and she starts running like normal again.
So here we go eh!
I store da soob in da garage at home at nite, so I'm thinking condensation in da tank, so I added some "Heat" to da gas eh. She sits out in the wind and snow during the day at work.
I also dont know when the fuel filter was last changed so I replaced that rump roast well.
How do your cars react to temps below 25 degrees with negative 30 degree wind chills?
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Thanks a bunch I have a 22mm sitting on the work bench.Drail plug for the trans is a 21mm...but i use a 22mm with no issues (since its the only one I have)As for clutch adjustment...the clutch cable goes onto the arm on top of the trans on the drivers side...there are two nuts...loosen them and run them either up or down the threaded portion of the cable...and that adjusts it. Tighten the nuts together when you get it adjusted where you want.
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Hey Folks!
I finally found the dipstick for the trans. (the turbo cover/ tire holder was hiding it) and upon inspection the trans fluid is in right between F and L. I have noticed it's grinding a little when I go for 2nd gear, so I want to fill up the trans. Does anyone know the size of the drain plug? I think it's 22mm but not sure, second if I wanted/needed to do a clutch adjustment, how would I go about doing so? thanks a bunch. This is on an 87 gl10t, 5 spd, 4wd all the bells and whistles. Thanks for the help. My search doesn't work for some reason cause I keep coming up with other then what I'm looking for search topics.
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Hi folks
Could someone give me the front axle nut torque spec's and the proper torqueing method for my 87 gl10t. I did a search and came up with nothing. Greatly appreciated.
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Greetings fellow soobers
I crawled under the soob lastnight for a look around, and found fluid leaking from around the stub axle seal on the trans. Leaks are common from what I've read here so I'm not alarmd, what I am nervous about is the amount of play the stub axle/doj (?)(sp) have at the trans. housing. Is a good amount of wiggle normal? There's enough wiggle to hear it. and I've noticed a metallic clackety sound under hard launch, such starting on a uphill grade. The sound sounds as though it's coming from a blown cv/doj (?)(Sp) but I've replaced one side and the other side looks wonderful.
One more question. I also have what seems to be a blown wheel bearing front drivers side. I'm noticing a vibration as well as a scraping sound while driving and turning. What happens if I let this go for a while? The wheel has a fair amount of play in it. Should this be a priority? Thanks for your help.
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You should bleed the master before the calipers. I think I would do the farthest away first.TE=jeffroid]Sorry to have to ask this but I just spent nearly an hour searching and I am still unsure.
I just had to rebuild my front calipers and want to flush the sytem and bleed properly. What is the correct sequence for an '83 GL 4WD wagon? I've read furthest to closest and two different versions of the cross pattern depending on the model and who was posting. I've got two different crappy manuals and all they say is to bleed them in the proper order - gee thanks !
When I bleed the master cylinder do I do that before or after the wheel cylinders and calipers.
THANKS ! ! !
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I was replacing a leaking coolant line that I beleive cools the turbo. It's maybe 6 inches long underneath the air intake boot and the aluminum intake thing on my GL10t. Well there is a black vacuum box located right next to the coolant line, and as I was prying off the line, I broke the vacuum thing. I have pic's but my comp. isn't working with my camera for some reason. The other end of the vacuum line leads to the pass. side fender where it plugs into a silver box.
Question is what is this vacuum thing? What does it do? And where can I find another? Thank you for any info. I will try and post pics soon.
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My master cylinder seems to be leaking brake fluid where the plastic tank connects to the metal portion. The rubber seals must be worn or something. Question is where can I find a seal kit for this online. Or maybe even a master cylinder. It's a 1987 GL-10T wagon. Many thanks in advance.
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My VW is a drive by wire, which can be affected by static noise from various other electronics in the car. A better word for it would be it smoothed out and increased throttle response which makes the car feel faster, in many cases increases effeciency producing more useable power.i dont know how you would feel an increase in power unless you had grounding issues before you started. -
I've done several searches for adding a hyper ground system to my 87 GL10t with little or no luck. I would like to know the exact mounting locations of the grounds I should add. I have done a "Daisy Chain" on my VW and noticed a definate increase in power, but my friend grounded his soob and blew his alternator (still undetermined if the two were interrelated, I don't think so...but he does).
Has anyone else that has done this noticed a power change in their soob? Just curious.
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Yes, I ran the defrost all the way to work. Thank you very much for the info.
Sounds like the A/C condenser drain tube, its normal, especially with higher humidity. And given your location I suspect that you may have run the defroster this morning? (the A/C cycles when the defroster is on)Gary
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I was just looking at the Soob at lunch, and I noticed a puddle underneath it. So I jokingly said it must be leaking, when I moved it to a different spot to see if indeed it was leaking, and it was. Soooo, I jacked it up and it looks like a drain tube on the passenger side, below the firewall was dripping water or something.
What is this? Is it right?
My coolant was indeed low, which scares me. I topped it off. But the drippy stuff just looked like h2o.
Good thing I looked underneath the Soob cause I noticed I routed the brake line wrong while replacing the half shaft, and the new half shaft wore a hole right down the the steel in the brake line.
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My 87 ea82t gl10 4wd has a stumbling problem that seems to be getting worse. It runs pretty smooth down the road, but I can feel a surge/stumble every couple of seconds or so. And it seems hestitant when you want to take off from a dead stop. And finally I went to McD's for lunch, noticed the stumble as usual, but once I returned to my work, it stumbled while idling, which has never happened before. I know the maintenance has been kept up on her, but I'm thinking ignition system i.e. cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
The whole thing feels like something is clogged, like maybe the exhaust. I anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
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Do any of you folks with the ea82t have a engine stumbling while driving on the highway? Mine seems to want to feel sluggish when you take off, but when you gas it, she runs and accelerates fine. Then going down the road at 60, she feels like shes missing (stumbling). It doesn't feel so bad when she's cold, but once she warms up you can really feel it. And now (today at lunchtime) she's startin to have a stumble at the idle. She's almost got 135,000 on the clock. I just bought her for $1000.00. I put a new half shaft into her. She's an 87 gl10t wagon 4wd.
Maintenance has been kept up on her, but I don't know the last time the plugs, wires and cap were changed. If any of you folks have any ideas for me, I would greatly appreciate the advice. Thanks in advance.
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Thanks, I didn't throw a code, but I'm going to reset the ecu anyways, cause she's still hesitant.
Yea, i've had that happen on my car, the piping from the intercooler has blown completly off a couple times, my fault not tightening the clamps enough.You may want to reset your ecu if you still have hesitation problems now, did you throw a check engine light while you were leaking air? it would have been an maf error, or something like that. btw, just disconnect battery for like ten minutes to reset your ecu.
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If a subie were to rust out at the frame /body junction, is it possible to bring the subie back to life by piecing in metal. Or is it just a waste of time. I just wonder cause my subes a little ragged on the frame, but the rest is minty fresh. Just wondering.
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I did a more throughout check during my "smoke Break" since I'm at work and found that indeed the intake pipe was a little bit loose and wiggled around on the hose that connects it to the turbo. Tightened down the crappy hose clamps and presto...she runs again. Feels like there may be some hesitation at lower rpms now, but still driveable. Thanks for the help. I love this forum!!!!!
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I'll go check that right now, Thanks.
Nothing appears to be loose, there is some oil build up on the outside of the turbo. I pulled the spare tire holder off to get a better look at things, everything seems normal. Any other ideas? Thanks.
My defrost is frosting me!!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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