TomInOR2002

Another thing to check is that even though you have power and no broken grids, the right side of the grid needs to have a clean, solid connection to chassis ground. All the juice in the world won't do you any good unless the current can flow.

I just PM'd richierich. Hopefully he will be able to help me get it fixed.

My subaru blew a headgasket a few months ago and I have been waiting to get enough money to get it repaired. I have been borrowing a friend's car in the meantime, but now they need it back and I do not have any money to fix my car, so I need to sell it to buy a beater. Anyway, how much should I ask for if I advertise it locally in the newspaper (Vernonia, OR area)? It's a 1987 GL-10 4 door sedan EA82T with D/R FT4WD 5 speed with locking center differential. It has power windows and locks, sunroof and digital dash. Overall, it's in decent condition, except the driver's door is dented pretty good where someone backed into it (only the door is damaged and it seals up good) and right behind the driver's side rear wheelwell where someone else backed into it. The dents are cosmetic, but very noticeable. There is some rust behind the rear wheels, but it isn't rusted through to the outside. The engine runs good and wasn't smoking prior to the headgasket blowing. It runs and can be driven as it is now, except for the massive white cloud. What is a fair asking price for this car as described? I know they are pretty common, but the drivetrain should be worth a few hundred, right? Does anyone know if it is possible to finance a used Japanese engine or crate engine? Does anyone know of a reliable mechanic around Portland, OR that might take payments for their labor with the parts paid for up front?

Well, the headgasket blew on my 1987 GL-10 turbo FT4WD D/R sedan. This is coming a month after the crankshaft broke in my wife's truck. I am officially without a vehicle. What is involved in changing the headgasket? Does the engine need to come out or can it be replaced on the car? Does anyone know how much a used japanese engine typically runs? Does anyone want to change the headgasket for me for a few hundred dollars (I have no garage)? Any advice would be appreciated, since I am borrowing a friend's truck for a few weeks (but I need a running car ASAP!). Thanks, Tom

Yeah, wishful thinking I guess. I guess I will have to drive my wife's truck at 10 miles per gallon. Thanks all who responded.

I will be going to Colorado Springs next week to pick up some of the stuff I left there when I moved to Oregon last year. I know you are not technically supposed to tow a trailer with a GL-10, but for those who have, what is a realistic weight that I would be able to tow safely? My car is a 1987 GL-10 with EA82T and FT4WD 5 speed. I will be going from Colorado Springs, Colorado to Portland Oregon. I would like to tow the Uhaul 5' X10' trailer. I am not in a huge rush, so I can keep my speed down to 55 if necessary. Does anybody have any guidelines, advice, etc.? Any ideas where to find a class 2 hitch that will fit my car? Thanks, Tom

I just heard from my mechanic...He said the transmission is toast (no specifics, he talked to my wife and she called me with the info). He said he will put in a used transmission for $855 parts and labor. After thinking for a long time thinking about it (the repair is probably more money than the car is worth), I authorized the repair. After all, the alternative is buying another car with who knows what problems. At least with this one, I already know what is wrong with it. Should I try to get the old transmission from him? Does anyone here have a use for a trashed d/r 5 speed with locking differential? Thanks everybody! Tom

Sorry, I was going to make sure I included little details like that, but I ended up forgetting anyway. The car is a 1987 GL-10 sedan, EA82T, FT D/R FWD 5 speed locking diff., digidash. Thanks, Tom

I was driving home from Longview washington Thursday night and while on a 2 lane country road going about 35 mph, I heard a clunk and my tires suddenly locked up, briefly released then locked up again. The car wouldn't move at all. The gears shifted fine and when I let the clutch out, the engine bogged down (and burned the clutch), but it wouldn't move at all. I removed the rear driveshaft thinking that one of the u-joints might have bound up, but it still wouldn't move in front wheel drive. By this time, a deputy sheriff, a little old lady and one of the people who lived nearby were all there trying to help me move the car with no luck. We put it in neutral and tried pushing it to get it off the road, but the front tires wouldn't turn at all. I ended up calling a tow truck to tow me 1/4 mile to a place I could leave the car. When he started winching the car onto the flatbed, the front tires turned freely. The next day, I rented a tow dolly from u-haul and towed my car to my mechanic to start diagnosing the problem. While loading the car onto the tow dolly, I discovered that when the car is running and in neutral, the front tires are locked in place, but when the car is off and in neutral, the tires turn fine. What does this sound like to you guys (I haven't heard from my mechanic yet) and is there something else I could have done to limp my car 1/4 mile (I had to pay $175 for a 1/4 mile tow!) Thanks, Tom

Where should I run extra grounds on my 1987 GL-10 turbo sedan FT4WD? Should I go to the engine block or the chassis? Also, would it be better to get another ground wire entirely for the negative cable, or is there a secure way of attaching extra grounds with the factory cable? Thanks, Tom

I had the same problem with my 1987 GL-10 turbo. I still haven't figured out the near overheating and temp dropping back down abruptly, but I am going to change the thermostat when the weather is better like everyone has said. As far as smelling and losing coolant, I had an intake manifold gasket leaking allowing coolant into the intake manifold. I went through about 1 gal. per day of coolant driving ~30 miles round trip and my car felt like it was bogging down. My mechanic did a pressure test on the cooling system to find the problem. That might be another good place to start looking for your problem. If there are any leaks in the system a pressure test should find them and it shouldn't cost much to have it done somewhere.

What size stereo can I fit into the dash of my 1987 gl-10? Is it a 1.5 DIN or double-DIN stereo opening? Thanks, Tom

I'm having a strange heater-related overheating problem in my 1987 gl-10 turbo. When the heater is off, it runs at about half on the temperature gauge. With the heater on and the fan on 1 or 2, the temperature gauge stays about in the middle. If I turn the heater fan up to 3, the temp. gauge gets up to 1 or 2 bars below red (digi dash) and stays there for 30 seconds to a minute then abruptly drops back to the middle and slowly starts climbing again. With the fan on 4, the temp climbs into the red and stays there. The heater puts out heat, but the fan doesn't seem to be moving much air. The heater isn't near as hot as it was about a year ago, but it is still warm. My question is, what could be causing this? If the heater core was plugged, I wouldn't expect the heater to get warm at all (or very little) and I would think it would run hot with the heater on regardless of the fan setting. Is there anything I should look at before I take it to a garage and pay big bucks to have it diagnosed/repaired? I've put about $700 into the car in the last month already (4 new tires, leaking intake manifold repaired). Can anyone explain exactly how the heating system works in these cars? Does coolant flow through the heater core all of the time, or is there a valve that opens when the heater temp knob is moved to heat? Is it tied into the fan speed? Thanks, Tom

My 1987 GL-10 (EA82T, F/T 4WD D/R 5 speed) has been acting up for awhile and now it's getting worse. It bogs down and acts almost as though one or more cylinders are misfiring. It seems to act up almost randomly, but it seems to happen more often in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, on hills or when passing (basically whenever it's under a load). It can also happen when just cruising along at 55 mph on the highway, though. The engine will also cut out momentarily when passing or going up a long hill very similar to overboost cutout. Does anyone know where I should start troubleshooting? I've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, air filter and PCV valve. I've also removed the catalytic convertor under the car. I have been thinking that it's either fuel starvation or a plugged catalytic convertor, but I don't have the money to keep shotgunning the problem. I will pull the codes tonight, but does someone have an idea what else to check? Thanks,