IdiotSavant

Thanks for the input Rooster2. I made a call to my local dealership this morning and ended up ordering the necessary parts directly from them. I was initially just looking to find out the correct part numbers, but was quoted $190 for everything I need, including valve assembly, filler pipe, gasket, ring and mounting screws. If there are fitment issues, I can just walk right over and exchange the parts instead of paying shipping. I was expecting minimum $400 ordering from the dealership, so it not too bad considering some US online vendors wanted $60-$80 just for shipping. To help other members with the repair, I'll update this with the correct part numbers on a 99 Legacy GT sedan once I can confirm that the parts ordered fit properly. Thanks again.

The car is my daily driver so I can't really wait too long. I've never had good experiences using car-part.com. Every time I call a salvage yard to inquire about the part I want, the people answering always seem clueless and/or half drunk. I'm going to stick to an online vendor. It's probably gonna cost around $200 for all new parts so it's not too bad.

Hey guys, I'm trying to gather the parts required to do a fuel filler pipe replacement on my 99 Legacy GT sedan. After scouring the internet and this forum for hours trying to find a clear answer, there seems to be a lot of confusion between the parts required for the 97,98 and 99 models, wagons, sedans and SUS. I want to be sure because I'm in Canada and ordering from the US. I wouldn't want to be stuck paying ridiculously high shipping fees to return parts due to fitment issues. Pretty sure I'm going to order from subarugeniuneparts, but if there's another one-stop-shop where I can order all the required parts, please share. Looking at their parts diagram(attached), I think I'm going to need: 1 x #8, Filler Pipe 2 x #9 Ring 1 x #10 Gasket 1 x #15 Filler Valve #2 1 x #17 Rollover Valve In addition to this, I read that I'm going to need: 3 x mounting screws Part #047105166 1 x Valve Assembly Part #42084FA100 2 x Nuts Part # 023705000 Does this seems correct? Also if anyone has any good resources to find Subaru part numbers, please share. Subarugenuineparts website is very confusing when it comes to searching by vehicle or part number. Your help is much appreciated. Cheers!

The reason I've been hesitant to switch to synthetic is because the engine has only ever known conventional oil. I remember reading that on these phase 1 EJ25D engines, it's not a good idea to suddenly switch to synthetic at such a high mileage. The head gaskets have never been done. Is that true or can I safely switch to synthetic without worry?

Thanks for all your insight, gentlemen. My car is already equipped with a block heater. I think it was included in the cold weather package. I have never used it before. Then again, I've never had problems starting the car in cold weather. Also, I don't have a driveway, so I'd have to run an extension cord across a busy sidewalk to plug it in. I had no problems starting the car this morning at about -18C. However, I did notice the oil level was rather low, so maybe a lack of oil prevented the engine from cranking properly. I still picked up a new battery today since it's due to be replaced anyway. I'm also going to try and find an oil pan heater to be better prepared for next deep freeze we get. I'm going to be testing the starter and alternator tomorrow to make sure they're still functioning properly. With busy holiday plans ahead, I sure don't want to be left stranded anywhere. Thanks again. You guys are a wealth of information. Cheers!

Hello gentlemen, The last few days have been brutal, temperature wise, hitting -30C to -40C. My 99 Legacy GT has been having problems starting. I first noticed the problem when using my remote starter. It didn't start up until about 3-4 minutes after I pressed the button. My Compustar system tries to start the car a few times before giving up. Usually, it starts up right away. I drove around for a while and the car seemed fine. The next day, I went to start the car manually and the engine cranked halfway, then stopped. There was no clicking from the starter and all the electrical components(radio, lights, etc) were still working fine. I eventually got it started after trying for about 5 minutes, but it was an extremely rough start. Once the engine warmed up, it sounded smoother. My first assumption is the battery, as it's about 4 years old. It's probably not sending enough current to start the engine. But wouldn't all the electrical components die after attempting to start the car? It could possibly be the starter as it's never been replaced since the car was manufactured. Same applies to the alternator. Last assumption is that it's just so cold that the oil is too thick to properly lubricate the engine. (using 5w30 mineral). I'm going to be buying a new battery this week, but is there anything else I should be looking at? After researching some related topics here, I read that fuel delivery could be a problem. The fuel pump has never been replaced, but I always replace the filters regularly. Spark plugs and wires were changed about 70k km's ago with OEM parts from the dealership. As always, your help and insight is well appreciated. Cheers

For the archives, I will post the diagnosis here. Turns out, part of the brake line came loose from the strut and was coming in contact with the backing plate(i believe). They were attached with a tie-wrap that gave way, allowing the brake line to freely move around near the brakes. Luckily, no damage was done to the brake line or any other part. Everything else on the car is in great shape, i.e. wheel bearing, tie rods, cv joint, brakes, etc. $25 and 30 minutes later, I was out of there. Thanks again for your insight, gentlemen.

Halfway to the shop this morning and the sound stopped. It was present when I left the house and probably woke up the neigborhood, and for no apparent reason while driving about 70km/h, it suddenly stopped. I'm still waiting for the shop to open so we can take a look with the car on the lift. Can this still suggest a bearing or more likely something lodged in the braking system; which seems quite common as well.

You may be correct about the wheel bearing. The noise is constant regardless of whether the brake is depressed. But, it does seem to quiet down a little when turning. I was under the impression wheel bearing failure produced more of a "whirring" sound rather than a loud metal screeching that makes my car sound a train pulling up to the station. I intend on bringing it to a shop in the morning to get a proper diagnosis. My Subaru shop is about 40km away and I'm afraid to drive it that far so instead I'm taking it to a different shop that's much closer to home, but they tend to employ young mechanics straight out of school. Should I be worried about having inexperienced mechanics work on such a problem? If it is indeed a bearing, am I looking at replacing the hub as well?

Hi guys, As I drove off in my car this afternoon I noticed a really loud metal on metal screeching sound coming from the front end of my 99 Legacy GT. The sound seems to move rhythmically with the speed of the car and definitely turned some heads as I drove. It was fine this morning and the car was parked indoors all day. I decided to record the sound as I drove and post it here to get some feedback before I bring it to the shop tomorrow. Any ideas on what this could be? Wheel bearing? Transmission? Would it be safe to drive it another 40km to the shop tomorrow or best to have it towed? Your insight, as always, is well appreciated. Cheers! http://www.wikiupload.com/FU13B51JA4V8SBG Voice0004.mp3

I can't seem to find a decent new spring/strut/mount setup that will cost less than $1000 installed. Now looking into used suspensions from a '02-'07 WRX. From reading up online, it appears that these would be a direct bolt-on fit. BTW, I own a BD 99 Legacy GT. Can anyone please confirm that the WRX setup would fit without any additional parts/modifications? The asking price for these suspensions around my area is between $100 - $300 and I'm guessing it shouldn't be more than 2-3 hours for installation at a shop. I think this is my best option for the time being. Thoughts?

The oil pan was rusted and causing a leak. Oil was seeping through there and also from the oil pressure switch. Upon closer inspection the spring seems to be from the rear passenger side as it's sitting lower than the rest of the car. Still doesn't explain the clunking I was feeling on my left foot while driving that day. I'm going to replace all the struts, springs and mounts this week. It's been an expensive year for the subaru so far. Timing belt and all related parts, CV axles, oil pan, brakes and now suspension. Now if only my head gaskets blow, I'm all set!

The pieces seem the same thickness as my springs but I checked both front springs and they seem ok. Maybe its from the rear. I was also able to drive home for about 2 minutes without any noticeable effects. I'm guessing its unsafe to keep driving like this. Gonna have to get it back to the shop real soon. Thanks guys. Here's another pic for perspective on size. http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6993/imag0368hh.jpg I find it odd that the mechanic didn't notice this with the car on the lift and while replacing the axle. I had even asked that he inspect the front suspension for worn bushings, etc.

Hey guys, Just got my car serviced today. Oil pan and gasket replaced Driver side CV axle replaced Transmission fluid and filter On the drive home, I was feeling an occasional clunk under my left foot when going over bumps. Then while making a left turn, I hear the sound of steel against the concrete and it seemed to be from something that fell off my car. At first I thought it was a tool forgotten in my engine bay. But when I got out to inspect it, I found these 2 pieces of solid steel. Is this part of my car or am I an idiot who just rolled over this stuff? I appreciate your insight. Cheers! Link to pic http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4852/imag0366o.jpg

Thanks for all the quick replies. They are not going to be removing the engine, but I assume that it wouldn't add too much to the cost of labor to remove it(4 hours total I'm guessing ). At the same time, it would make the timing belt and valve cover work much easier with the engine out. If I decide to pull the engine, I will definitely have them do the baffle plate. The P/S and brake fluids are also due, so I added those to my list. Thanks again.