jimshih

Yes before when only two coils had spark the engine would not start. Now I used a timing light's induction pick up to check all 4 wires and all have power going through them.

Once the engine was running and I noticed the non revving condition, I manually open the throttle plate while injecting starter fluid into one of the intake hose. The RPM should change regardless of anything almost. Air and Fuel although not the correct amount are feed the engine should react. The weird thing is no differance. Weird?

Both ECU acts the same. The car idles but when you hit the gas or manually open the throttle there is no rev. The engine rpm does not change at all. The engine has a two wire crank sensor now which I got from a junk yard for testing and the original cs has three wires. That is the only differance I see. The third wired is shielding but also connects into the ECU as grounding or somthing..not sure.

Ok, something that I did at night where I put one of the wire into the sheilding connector by mistake (yellow wire) and caused the no start again. Once I can see better during the day I fixed the problem and it started right back up. Now it is idling but somehow when I rev it, it doesn't reponse. The engine just idle that's it. I check the TPS and MAP and all the readings checked out. The TPS puts out the right voltage sweep with the opening of the throttle. I am not sure what is going on but maybe the crank sensor I am using from a different model is not a good fit but it shouldn't cause this problem since the crank just provide timing info. I also read in the manual the fuel pump circuit is also related to the crank sensor so maybe that has something to do with it.

Got a pair of used cam and crank sensors today. They are a little different where the originla have wires connected and these unplugs at the sensor head. They look and fit the same though. Two connection on them only with three on the original where the numbe three is the shielding. I soldered and wired them up to give it a try. After a few cranks the engine started up..it was running.. I pulled the cam sensors and try it again. Still runs. So it was the crank sensor. Unplugged one wire at the crank connector to shut it off. Got out my timing light to check if all 4 wire ares sparking. Oops..couldn't get it started again.. something is wrong again... Is something burning out the crank sensor?? It was dark and I couldn't see anymore so need to ck it tomorrow. At least I know the engine mechincal is all good now.

Here is something else I found. While removing the crank sensor I heard the fuel pump realy clicks on and off. So I took out the CS and see what's going on. The body of the CS is being used as ground somehow. I cut and wired the sensor direct to the ECU to see if it is still the same. It's the same so no short in between. Maybe the CS is bad so I took the cam sensor out and wired that in to the ECU crank location since the wires are the same three wires and they perform the same function. Tried it and samething happens. So sensors should be OK. Not sure is this is suppose to be or something wrong. Putting a wrench to the cam sensor is ok but putting a wrench to the crank bolt and somewhere on the engine and the fuel relay clicks on. Not sure if this somehow affects the 3&4 not firing??

I checked the F47 plug to ignitor wires for high resistance and that tested OK. Now I unplugged the F47 and measured the voltage at 9 and 10. They came out about the same ~11.6 volts. Crank the engine with the plug off ans measured it, it's about 6,7,8 both pins. Plug it in and measured at the ignitor and it's oV. Crank it and the 1&2 Bank wire is .24,2,3 and back to .23. The point is the signal goes over 3 and it sparks. The other bank also have signal but never go over 3 so it won't fire. One interesting thing is while plugging it back I had the key to on and it sparked so I wiggled the F47 in and out and was able to have spark at all 4. In and out at different angles and it all 4 will spark. I though I was on to something and test it somemore but I think it is just because I am cutting or providing power to ignitor during this quick connect disconnect that caused coil to fire. The problem is still something in there not just a bad connection at the connector. So now the 2,3 bank wire has some signal but won't go over 3 V like 1&2 bank ??? Just not sure how it is controlled??

Got a replacement ECU today. Plug it in...still the same output.. Started checking all the wires again. Cam sensor: engine cranking: 3,4,5 volts. checked cs resistance to body both wires= OL (no shorting out condition) spec is greater 1 M min ohm checked cs wire connector to ecu connector resistance = low and within spec Crank : crank sensor: engine cranking: 4,5,6 volts. checked crank resistance to body both wires= OL (no shorting out condition) spec is greater 1 M min ohm checked cr wire connector to ecu connector resistance = low and within spec So both cam and crank are putting out signal to ECU and the connection between them are OK. One thing I noticed, If i leave any one of the sensor disconnected, I will not get any spark at all. Once both connected then it is spark at 1 and 2 only. Contiued to check voltage between ECU and body (B58) NO12 - body /10V min good (B48) NO15 - body /10V min good (B48) NO2 - body /10V min good (B58) NO13 - body /10V min good (F47) No 24 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? (F47) No 25 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? (F47) No 14 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? (F47) No 15 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? (F48) No 11 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? (F48) No 22 -- Body/ 0 ohm ? I got some high numbers here some low some as high as 70 ohm so I ran ground wire from battery to each above connections to avoid any possible bad ground. Checked crank again and still the same?? What now?

I cut the two wires going to the ignitor and use jumper wires to connect them. I will test signal at the ECU pins since that would be easy test also just to get any wiring issue out of the way.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis_summary.html Looked over the Ford EDIS 4 and tried to match that to the 2.2 Subaru. Here is what I see different: EDIS: crank signal goes direct to the EDIS unit and EDIS has driver inside to control coil fire. EDIS also sends PIP signal to ECU to adjust for timing advance and ECU outputs SAW signal back to EDIS after it determined timing adjustment needed. Subaru: Crank and cam sensor signal are feed to ECU not to ignitor(EDIS). After ECU determines the necssary timing it send signal to the ignitor which there are two wires. one for each bank. So on the Subaru system the ignitor performs different function then the Ford EDIS unit. My unit has no signal from one wire and is causing one bank not to fire. I am suspecting the ECU defect at the point and looking to get a replacement to test. Please correct me on the above if I am wrong, thanks.

Ok I checked for codes: I am reading the green led on the ECU as this is a engine swap. with nothing connected: it blinks 4 4 4 4 4 4 .......... connect the two green: 4 4 4 4 4 4........but now the fuel pump relay click on and off and I can gear the fuel flowing sound. Connect the two blacks: I see 12 12 12 12 12 12 ..... Check that and it come up as starter switch open or short circuit so that maybe from the swap wiring and should not affect the ignition system. Now still search??

Here is a update of the problem: I have tested the ignitor and that tested to be ok. Two wires from the ECU going to the ignitor. One of them has no signal going to the ignitor. I tested by crossing the wires at the ignitor. Now I need to research if the ECU has two sperate inputs for these two outputs or just one. If there is only one then the ECU is bad. If there are two seperate inputs for them then the ECU is good and a sensor or something else are bad. Any help on this?? I have not pulled the code. Will do this now. Just need to figure out how.

Hi All, I am working on a VW van with a 2.2L Subaru engine. This is a distributorless system. The engine won't start and I see the condition of Spark #1 and #2 . No spark #3 and #4. There are three wires going to the coil with 12V at the center. If I swap the other two then the condition becomes NO Spark #1 and #2 and spark #3 and #4. From that I am guessing that the coil pack is good. I am looking to test the ignitor and ECU but if anybody knows the cause of this problem please let me know, thanks.