JasonPap2002

Thanks! I feel the same now, have done all sorts of tests this weekend. Anyone have a recommendation as to the most cost effective place to buy a suby alternator? Found on amazon $121 but not sure if I can go there.

Good tips! Yes I agree that a new/used/rebuilt one is where I should go with this. I do appreciate all of your advice, it's been very helpful. ~Jason

Thanks! I tried pushing a grounded wire to the outside of the case but will give a go with wiring it in a bit more solidly. I have a feeling it's the voltage regulator if this doesn't work. I hate to put a new alt in there, but what can you do. Thanks again folks! Any one of you in Austin some time, a beer on me. ~Jason

Thanks for this! In this case, bulb test is NOT working then. I get no alternator lamp on when turning the ignition on. I feel that the internals of the alternator are not providing a path to ground when i turn on the ignition. Its an open circuit and so remains unlit. Anyone know if there is anything inside easily replaceable for this? Or ? I appreciate all the insight! ~Jason

I think by bulb test you mean touching the alternator warning lamp wire to ground directly (instead of pin 1), and yes it works then... Really weird issue but slowly pointing to internal alternator issues... ~Jason

Cool - I just checked and found that on pin 1 with ignition on I get 5-6 volts. It must be coming in through B+ terminal because no other wires are connected. Otherwise it appears the alternator is working fine - putting out 15 volts or more when all wires are connected. But I really want that alternator light to work! (I'm OCD sometimes). Anyone know if it's worth opening up and taking a look inside the alt? Or perhaps I'm missing something else? Pin 1 is the pin closest to B+ terminal, correct? Grasping at straws here. :-) Thanks in advance!

Hi Folks, I have an ej25 alternator wiring question that you may be able to help with. Essentially my alternator warning lamp is not receiving ground from pin one in the 3 pin connector shown here: Wiring in my car is here: I can make the alternator warning lamp turn on when I touch the wire going to pin 1 (L) to ground. My pin 2 (S) is receiving 13 volts (going to B+). Try as I can it seems that pin 1 is open. However if 12 volts is not on it when started the alternator only puts out 13 volts. When 12 volts is on it (from the alternator warning lamp wire) then fields excite and it bumps to 15 volts. Any ideas? I'm beginning to think it's an internal issue - not much else that it can be! Alternator seems to work fine otherwise... Thanks folks! ~Jason

Hey folks, I have an ej25 out of a 1999 Forester in my 1984 Vanagon. Runs great. Currently the alternator warning indicator lamp will not turn on. It hasn't worked since the conversion. One side of lamp is on ignition power, the other side goes directly to the alternator. If ignition is on and I touch the other wire to ground (the side at the alternator), it lights up. However, if I touch the end to the "L" on the subaru alternator (pin1, closest to the B+) then it does not light. L is not receiving 12 volts at this time but it's also not receiving ground - it's apparently open. Try as I can I can't make the L have a ground, ever. I've tried all combinations that I can think of. I have pin 2 "S" in the connector wired directly to B+. You can see the connector and two wires with B+ post to the right in this photo: And the wiring that I found: Here are the details: With ignition off: L is not ground, S is not ground. With ignition on, but car not running: L is not ground, S is not ground. With ignition on, car running but L without 12 volts (field not excited), alternator puts out 13 v. S is at 0 volts. Once 12 volts is placed on L (say by touching the alternator warning lamp wire to it), the alternator puts out 15+ volts, and then S has .33 volts. My understanding is that with ignition on and alternator not spinning, then L should route to ground. If someone can confirm the actual wiring behavior they have I'd be much obliged. I'm almost starting to think it's something internal to the alternator but it appears to work fine otherwise. Thanks folks! I've learned a ton from this board.