Gnuman

The O2 sensors are both less than 50K miles old, genuine Subaru, both replaced at the same time, while I had the engine out to replace the T-belt and seals. Replaced the plugs at the same time, as well as the air filter. I have been getting P0420's since before I replaced the O2's and the PO was fond of using really cheap gas (also skimped on maintainance as well, but that is another thread. . .) I am suspecting that it is the cat, but I am really hoping not. I have not yet run seafoam through the top end, and may do that today. I was just hoping for another answer. . . *sigh*

Title says it, 96 Outback wagon, 4EAT, 340K miles, took it to get smogged today and it failed at idle, with 158PPM (max is 100PPM). It has been so long since I have had any issues with smogging a car that I have forgotten how to bring down the HC number. Any clues?

I *got* my 96 Outback at 2095K miles, and I'm over 315K now. your car should be fine to get to 250K as it is, based on the info you have given. Just keep oil in it and the like. Tnhe previous owner on my car had neglected the car fairly badly, and I had a bit of work to on on her when I got her, but that is coming along nicely. I just did the timing belt and seals recently, and the car is happy as a clam now. (how do we know clams are really happy?) personally, I would not settle for 250K miles. . . Go for 300 at least.

I had a release bearing fail in my 92 wagon. Drove it for 4 months with the clutch cable disconnected as it had also taken out the pressure plate with it (bearing had seized and ripped itself to shrapnel, then ground down the fingers on the pressure plate until they all bent in around the bearing). Had to get a whole clutch kit and put it in there. When I could finally afford one I fixed it up right and all was well. If you are wondering how I drove it: put the gearbox into neutral whenever you have to stop, then start the car in first gear and shift by matching the revs of the engine to the revs of the transmission. with the clutch cable released the pedal goes to the floor and you can start the car in gear. Yes, it was ugly, but it worked and I *needed* the car. . .

it does not apply why to fwd/awd cars because it worked by shifting the weight off of the rear bearings, by sending it forward. in fwd/awd cars, this only adds *more* weight to the bearings, if they are in the front. . .

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you all, I have been away from my computer. Yeah, it was sounding like a wheel berring, but I could not find any physical indication of that. I'll just go ahead and have a new berring swapped in and see if that fixes it. . .

yes, the noiuse was there to begin with.

The sound is like a wheel bearing (wowwowwow), except more of a grinding noise, and it happens even going straight. there is no looseness in the wheel when it is up on jackstands, and when I pull the halfshafts out of both front knuckles, they both turn freely with no hint of anything like this happening. Front Diff also feels very smooth and shows no indication if bearing problems. sitting in the passenger seat, I feel the vibrations through my feet like it is right under them. None of the wheels are loose in any way. I came in suspecting a wheel bearing, but could not find any confirming evidence with the wheels off the ground so I'm asking for a second opinion from you all. car is a 97 OBW 4EAT, 110K miles. I just replaced both front halfshafts. Thinking about putting both front berrings in, but I do not want to just throw parts at the car. . . Any ideas?

You should count that as two: my 92 was sold to my partner and she drives it all over the place, but those EJ22s are indestructable anyway. . . That and my '96 is now stable to run for a while. . .

Yes, the tensioner pulley should pivot freely when tightened all the way down. Otherwise the tensioner system could not work. Looks like the hole that the tensioner pulley threads into may be a bit messed up. Subaru sells that bracket for $40, Pick and Pull has it for $16. guess where I got mine. . . To be sure, you are using the sleeve that goes into the hole in the tensioner pulley, right? also, that sleeve is supposed to be free-moving in the tensioner pulley itself. When I took it out of the car, Mine was all bound up, and I had to push it out with a larger bolt so i could clean it up. if that sleeve (which is really a spacer) i9s bound up, the pulley will not pivot when tightened down.

Hopefully the other bit(s), are not lodged anywhere they will do harm. In better news, when you are done, your car will know it is in a good home, where it will be well taken care of.

OK, it took a bit longer than I expected. I went to Pick and Pull today and grabbed the bracket that was stripped out, and redid the timing belt with a working tensioner. I took a test drive tonight, including a few fairly steep hills. Wow, that was a major improvement!! I barely had to touch the gas except to accelerate, and even that was a lot less than I used to need. got stuck behind a slow moving driver on one of the steeper hills, so I went around, and boy did Betty jump on that!! The previous "mechanic" had all but raped the engine, but I was able to bring her back! She now knows she has a good home with me. It only cost about an extra hundred dollars in parts to make her right. . . . And that from pick and pull. . ..

Thanks, i needed a giggle this morning! Engine is back in the car, and all done except coolant and final checks. Hopefully, I'll have good news later today on how it runs.

More bad news: the bracket that holds the timing belt tensioner has two threaded holes in it for the bolts that hold the tensioner piston in place . . . or at least mine used to have threaded holes. . . the reason they were so loose coming off was that the previous "mechanic had stripped those holes out. . . Beginning of next month, I'll be going to pick and pull to grab a new one and redo my timing belt with a good bracket on the engine

I happen to know it has not been given that. I did test it once on premium, and it did not run any different. . . Of course, three out of four cams being two teeth off may have had a bit to do with that. . .and yes, the one that was right on was the left intake where the cam sensor is. . .