Frank T

Id like to bench bleed a new master cylinder for my 87 GL10 (2wd automatic). I looked thru the original subaru service manual and cant find a procedure for bench bleeding. Ive done many bench bleeds on other cars in the past but I never saw a master cyl with 4 outlets (usually 2). Also, The master cylinder I got has a bleed kit but it only included two fittings / tubes. I can use an old kit and do all 4 of them at the same time but my question is: is bench bleeding necessary on this subaru? Thanks Frank T

I have an 87 wagon... looking for a whole parts car Email me at deedo773@msn.com Im Near Allentown. Thanks Frank

I found a cargo cover that is 54.5" wide but the spacing between the brackets in my car is 53.25. Both dimensions are not including the nubs that hold it in place Are the ends of the cover or the brackets in the car adjustable? Thanks Frank

I have an 1987 GL10 wagon (Loyal) and Im looking for a Cargo cargo cover. Im having a hard time finding one but would like to know which years would fit my car. There is blue 92 loyal where I live and it looks to have the same cover... but maybe not. Anyone know which years would fit my 87? Thanks Frank T

I found a very small vacuum hose disconnected on the same side as the #1 cylinder!!! I Hooked it up and it smoothed out the idle. Why this was acting like the #1 cylinder not firing??? Im assuming it was pulling vacuum from near the #1 cylinder/// Im just glad it was something simple. Thanks for everyone's input!!

1987 GL10 single port fuel injected Non turbo Automatic 2wd 55K original miles I changed the MAF sensor a few days ago (due to non starting). When I got the car started I noticed it was idling rough and even stalled when I put it in gear. So I pulled all the plug wires one at a time (engine running) and when I pull cylinders 2,3 and 4 the engine runs worse. But when I pull #1 wire the engine has no change. So I changed the #1 plug, wires, distributor cap and rotor and pulled #1... still dead. I took the #1 wire off, put the old plug in the end of the wire and ran a jumper wire from the old plug to the new plug (still in the engine) and the old plug (exposed) fires the plug consistantly. I took the new plug out of the engine and the cylinder has good compression... Which tells me there is fuel issue, but with the single point fuel injection why would it feed all the cylinders except #1???? When in park it idles around 700-800 rpm. In drive it idles around 500-600. Any ideas why the #1 cylinder is not firing or why the engine is suddonly running rough? Thanks Frank T

Changed the Mass air flow sensor and its back up and running... thanks for everyone's help. Per my question above regarding test voltage on the MAF sensor: I attached the wire connector from the harness to the MAF sensor and attached the (+) lead from the meter to the white wire and (-) lead to the black wire. It tested 0.3 vdc. THen I blew air (with my mouth) into the MAF sensor and my meter jumped instantly to over a volt. Both tests were done with the key on but the car was not running. Hope this helps someone in the future Frank T

I found a testing procedure for the MAF sensor and I barely get when testing from the white to black wire and I get no change when I blow air into the tube. How much voltage should I be reading when the air is blown into the tube? My service manual says the reading should change but it doesnt give a range. THanks Frank

The test wires (Green and white) were NOT connected when I went to the grocery store (disconnected them after I cleared the codes). UPDATE: I said above that the check engine light is not on, but I think it is. The car wont stay running so all the lights are on. I conneted the white wires and the code 23 came up again... so Im thinking something is up with the MAF sensor. Does anyone know how to check of this is working or know the correct voltages on the pins? Thanks Frank

Thanks for the response 1. The MAF IS connected, but I dont know if its working. How do I test if its working correctly? 2. The distributor rotor is secure 3. I took that dome off the trans and there is some kind of valve that is held on with a few bolts. Whad does the 'apple core' condition look like? do need to take this valve off? Thanks Frank

Went to the grocery store tonight and my 87 GL10 (2wd wagon AUTO Trans) was running like crap. When I left the grocery store the car started up normally and I made it about 1/4 mile and it started sputtering and died. I tried to start it again and it started but imediately died again. I hit the key again, it started, tried to feather the gas to keep it running but it basicly had no effect to keep it running. Towed it home. It still starts for a few seconds then dies imediately... check engine light is NOT on. Its been running crappy for about a week and thought it had something to do with the modulator on the trans (one on order). Every morning it had a hard time shifting into reverse and shifting into first and second gear. Also coming to a stop it would not shift down to first. Id hit the gas, it would rev then drop into first and squeel the tires. I'd been working the throttle to get it to do what I wanted but Once it got into third gear it ran pretty good. Also a few days ago I put valve cover gaskets on it. During this process I removed the two small screws from the MAF sensor and removed it from the aluminum tube near the air cleaner. When I started the car after I was done with the gaskets, it would start but not stay running (same as my grocery trip) but if I would step on the gas it would stay running. After working the throttle like this 2 or 3 times it idled fine, but tripped the check engine light on (code 23-Air flow meter or circuit). I reset the CEL by plugging the green and white connectors together just before my trip to the grocery store tonight. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? Again the Check engine light is NOT on and the car will start for a few seconds every time, but no throttle response. Thanks Frank T

Green = test mode. tests for current faults White (or black for MPFI) = Read. reads stored codes. this is the most useful one. BOTH Green and White toghether = CLEAR mode. Hook up both, run it til the CEL flashes...disconnect. codes cleared. Leave both disconnected for regular driving. This connector info was very useful. It should be added to the "engine electrical", page 2, "Subaru ECU codes for 1983-1988"

Does someone have instructions on how to reset the engine codes on an 87 GL10 2wd auto?

Sorry for the generic 'vibration' description. Yes it has always done this. When I got the car it had lost its fan and it destroyed the radiator. So while I was in there fixing that I figured I would change the timing belts since I already had the front of the engine apart. I feel like it has something to do with the transmission or fuel injection, since it does it only under acceleration (very noticeable going up a hill)... come to think of it, it acts like pre-detonation (but way worse) like its trying to fire the cylinder but the timing is off or its starving for fuel. Any thoughts on this? I was paying close attention to it this weekend and I could get it to do it at RPM’s as low as 2200. But as soon as I lifted my foot it went away. Thanks for all the suggestions. Ill run through these this weekend and report back.

87 GL10 Wagon Fuel injected Automatic 2WD 53K original miles I have a nasty vibration between 2500-3500 rpm when accelerating up a hill. It happens in any gear and will go away instantly if I take my foot off the gas just a little bit (still accelerating but not as hard). But if I put it back down it comes back instantly. It feels like the car has a rev limiter on it and its dropping a cylinder. Most of the time I just take my foot off the gas or smash it to the floor to get the trans to down shift to get past the vibration. But I was on a trip recently where I was climbing a very steep hill and had to keep the pedal on the floor. It vibrated alot from 2900-3200 RPM, but kept accelerating (not as well as normal) until I got the RPMs above 3300, then it accelerated well and the vibration was gone. I swapped tires and rims around but nothing changed. I changed the air and fuel filters, no change. I changed both front axles and wheel bearings due to ripped boots and I was hoping this issue was related to the axles but there is still no change in the vibration. Also I changed the timing belts about 6K miles ago. I feel like it has something to do with the fuel injection or the trans/torque converter. I feel like I can live with it but I dont want it to be a sign of some catastrophic failure of sorts down the road. Any ideas? Thanks Frank T