thekauz

It’s at Crazy Rays in Edgewood Maryland now.

11 November 2018 FLASH SALE! The Boss (wife) says my 91 Loyale Wagon has got to go. 110000 original, runs, A/C blows cold. Has a few hick ups consistent with its age. She was going to drive it VERY Soon to the car parts yard and get 3 or 4 hundred for it. hurts to see that happen, I would love to see it as a project car for someone else. Car color is white and NOT the 4WD model If you live near Baltimore and are interested in it I'll sell for the Car Part yard price. But she will not wait long.

Anyone know a decent mechanic near Baltimore that works on old 90’s era Subaru’s???

I have the print out but I am trying to find iy again on this forum. It involvrs going behind the glove box and jumpering two wires that bypass the belt saver system and allow the A/C compressor to run all the time. It seems to be the only fix that works. I still have a 20lb tank of the old refrigerant and the system is charged properly and blows cold. it would just be nice to not have to jumper the system

Does anyone know or have a test procedure for the sensor that controls the belt saver system on the A/C? My A/c was cutting in and out and I adjust the sensor's standoff distance and it still cut out. I use a hack I found on this forum that worked great and the A/C blows cold enough to store food. But when you use the hack sometimes the fan control on the dash acts up, makes noise etc, So if anyone knows of a test procedure to test the sensor and has any idea's please let me know. The old beast has a ton of life left in her. (yes I used beast and her in the same sentence)(sorry)

Sorry-brain fart. It is a 91 Loyale

Does anyone know or have a test procedure for the sensor that controls the belt saver system on the A/C? My A/c was cutting in and out and I adjusted the sensor's standoff distance and it still cut out. I used a hack I found on this forum that worked great and the A/C blows cold enough to store food. But when you use the hack sometimes the fan control on the dash acts up, makes noise etc, So if anyone knows of a test procedure to test the sensor and has any idea's please let me know. The old beast has a ton of life left in her. (yes I used beast and her in the same sentence)(sorry)

Does anyone know or have a test procedure for the sensor that control s the belt saver system on the A/C? My A/c was cutting in and out and I adjust the sensor's standoff distance and it still cut out. I use a hack I found on this forum that worked great and the A/C blows cold enough to store food. But when you use the hack sometimes the fan control on the dash acts up, makes noise etc, So if anyone knows of a test procedure to test the sensor and has any idea's please let me know. The old beast has a ton of life left in her. (yes I used beast and her in the same sentence)(sorry)

Dave it barely gets into the normal range in winter using the dash temp guage. I'll do the checks for bubbles and such and change out the thermostat with an OEM one. If no change I guess the next step is the radiator, like the post Sid it is 25 years old

I have a 91 Loyale with a problem the has me scratching my head. Since I inherited this great car its had this weird (at least to me) problems. In the summer thetemp runs at the high end of the normal range, if I turn on the A/C it goes into the red. And in the winter time the temp barely gets into the normal range and no warmer. I did have a problem with the A/C cutting out but solved that problem with a fix I found on this forum. but the issue with the heat/no heat I don't believe had any bearing on the A/C issue So 1. Runs hot in summer, with A/C on it overheats 2. I tested the electric fan and it runs, whether our not it come on when I'm driving I don't know, though someone told me if the a/c is on the fan should run. 3. Barely gets warm in the winter. 4. Shop Put in an aftermarket thermostat years ago with marginal change. Any suggestions?

I nelected to add its a 1991 Loyale 2WD.

I tested my alternator with a PBT 300 system tester. Part of the test has it running at high RPM, my test voltage was 17.46V. The PBT 300 manual says the regulator is bad. Is the regulator internal to the alternator or is it in a separate location. A dumb question but please indulge me.

Its an all original equipment system and no it was not vacuumed and purged. I hace read on other threads is ok to run the system jumpered to bypass the belt protection system. Car seems to run fine. I guess I need to figure out why the A/C compressed turns off after it run for 10 seconds. is there a test procedure for the pulser that usually causes that problem??

I have a 91 loyale with an A/C problem. I was charging the A/C system with R12 and when the A/C was turned on it would run for 10 seconds and then the clutch shutoff off. When I would turned the system off and back on it would work for 10 seconds and the clutch would cut out again. Following an earlier thread I found on this forum I jumpered the belt protection system. The A/C clutch engaged and said engaged. temp out of the A/C was 57 degrees F. My question: Is it OK to leave the system running like this? Also is the pulser bad? Is it turning off the clutch? Is their a test for the pulser?

Thanks everyone for the help. thats one less thing to worry about. Now on to the A/C issues

Thats sounds like what mine does now. Warmed up at idle its just above zero. When driving warm its about 45. I'll check cold idle tomorrow morning. I'm puttinf some R-12 in the A/C in the morning so I'll check then thanks

I have a 91 Loyale 2WD. At idle the oil pressure is very low, almost on the line. When driving its about 35-45 PSI. I've had some folks say that is normal and other say it needs an oil pump. a few problems i have are that i'd like to send the car to Florida for the family to use. I'd hate to send it down and have the oil pump crap out. My next issue is that if it is an oil pump replacing it is involved and time consuming especially on the old beauty. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Im having the same type problem, my voltage meter is always at the top of the range (18 volts) while driving and comes down to normal voltage at idle. Any suggestions? its in a 1991 Loyale, non-4WD

It was the Idle air control valve1 replaced that and its running pretty well. Still likes to be warmed up before she's driven though. Now to figure out what I should go ahead and replace before it fails....

Do you have a Bosch cross reference number for the sensor that would fit a SPFI (91 Loyale)

Thats certainly worth a try. I'm still waiting for the weather to cooperate though.

I'll let you guys know how it goes at the boneyard tomorrow.

Haven't had a chance to test the sensor yet. It was raining For days and I'm just getting over the flu. Does any one know if the TCS on other year subarus Will fit my 91? I can't imagine a different Sensor for every Model and year. But I'm headed to the boneyard Monday to look For a Subby.

I'll try disconnecting it when i get off work and see what happens. The sensor is a little pricey but from all the threads in forum's I have read it sounds like a strong possibily that its that Sensor.

I found the single spage sensor on the theremostat housing, where do I locate the two wire sensor mention by MilesFox in his post?