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ct_bob

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Posts posted by ct_bob

  1. I have been having a ton of issues this fall. ( I only use the car in the fall) I have shoveled out tons of acorns. I still have enough in the Hood to feed an army of chipmunks.

     

    Many of the issues are electrical. I had similar voltage changes to what you showed. Especially on wet days (about the only time I use the car) It turned out that if I put a ground from the battery OR the engine block to the Alternator, all was well. I removed the alternator and cleaned all the surfaces that would ground it to the engine. Now the volts are right where they belong. YMMV

     

    Bob

  2. it WILL die unless you stick the clutch in and free rev it, even then it's 50/50 if you can keep it running

     

    This is sounding a lot like the problem I have been experiencing and just submitted a question about. My problem only occurs when it is wet out, but not all the time. (actually, I ride motorcycles 45k a year and the car 7k a year in New Hampshire) The last few days it has been raining. I had thought I had solved the problem but it came back after drining in the rain for about an hour. Then I dropped it off at a mechanic and it was running fine. He could not duplicate the problem. I picked it up tonight. It was rainy all day, but just foggy tonight. I made it less than a mile. I finally got fed up and removed the MAF sensor connector. It runs OK for now. At least I can get to work if it snows ( I hope)

     

    Bob

  3. 1995 Impreza Wagon, 1.8 liter - Problems started when wet. Bucking, complete loss of power, intermittent check engine light. Does not do it all the time. Did have low volts (12.1) due to bad alternator ground (Damaged ECU?). Volts now OK. At one point the air intake fell off of the intake manifold ( overheated MAF? ). When I remove the MAF connector I no longer have the wet issue (limp home mode?) Want to check the MAF etc. Can not find the ECU. My Clymer's says it us under or next to the steering column. I can't find it there behind the panel. Is it under the cover on the steering column that houses the ignition and blinker switches? Is it in a different place on this car? What else can I look into? I found that there had been a repair on the wire leading into the MAF, but all looked good. I realize that improved running after removing the MAF connector does not mean the MAF was bad. with the Check engine light on all the time the ECU just goes into a limp home mode. Hell, with the cost of a new/rebuilt maf, it might just make more sense to run it in limp home mode. Any idea as to if this can damage the vehicle over the long haul?

     

    Bob

  4. Thanks for the info.

     

    97,000 miles, fairly decent shape, got it from a dealer for $2,000, right around dealer list. Had to replace the muffler to pass NH inspection.

     

    Yes, it does leak. Haven't got into it to see where yet.

     

    2nd to 3rd shift is an adventure, since the bushing is gone and the lever rocks all over. Easy fux, but it still works so I will probably wait 'til I have more time.

    Seals and belts I don't think have been done. I will get to them when there is time.

     

    I put 6-7k max miles on per year, only during the winter months, and 40-45k miles on motorcycles. I am not too concerned about the mechanics of the car since I doubt it will last much more than 4 years before it rusts through. Sitting for 7 months of the year does not do a vehicle much good. All kinds of things end up having to be replaced due to sitting. Brake rotors, connnectors, seals, exhausts etc, not to mention generic cancer.

     

    So far I like this car (I've put a wopping 50 miles on it) and from reading this list I think it is a fitting car for me. There is a big fan following of Subarus, which usually means that there are quirks but they are fixable. Vehicles that act like appliances don't ussually draw much of a following.

     

    Bob

     

     

     

    service manual: http://techinfo.subaru.com

     

    The older prezzy is a solid car.

    You will need timing belt, oil pump reseal, water pump and rear cam seals likely... if they have not been done...

     

    but typically, replace those and the car will run like new. :)

     

    how many miles?

     

    any idea if the timing belt has been done?

     

    is it leaking oil at this time? (a lot of the older ones do)

     

    Jamie

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