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No! The force of the lengthwise cut silicon hose bent out to fit the plastic will have a force to try continue to be in its original form (i.e circular). Therefor it will squeeze the plastic trim piece and stay there. How well it will squeeze the plastic trim piece and stay in place probably depends on the hose inner and outer diameter. But... there is only a need to keep the hose in place until the plastic trim piece is put back on the trunk-lid. Then the plastic trim piece will also help to hold the silicone hose in place. So... two forces together keep it in place. And there is no need to do any damage to the car (i.e holes, glue etc etc).

If anyone is interested in a short summary with pictures...... The trunk rattle actually consisted of two problems with two separate solutions. #### # 1 # #### Problem: Rattling plastic Solution: A silicon vacuum hose with 2mm inner diam used. Cut lengthwise with a scissor. After that the plastic trim was removed 1 cm (approx 1/3 inch) so that the lengthwise cut hose could be put on the trunk-lid plastic trim piece. http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2662.JPG http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2664.JPG http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2665.JPG http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2666.JPG http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2667.JPG #### # 2 # #### Problem: Probably to thin latch on the car makes the whole trunk-lid to rattle when driving on non flat ground (i.e ice and snow) Solution: A few rounds on electricians tape on lock latch (tips from a guy in a Swedish forum) http://www.incedo.eu/~sjoholmp/misc_internet_links/legacy_station-trunk-rattle-fix/IMG_2668.JPG Note: The latch could be adjusted a bit (but I have not done that). A google search shows that people have had this issue. An adjustment often caused that the problem came back. So maybe their adjustments caused the trunk-lid get tighter so the rattle disappeared. But as it came back a theory is that it came loose very little after some time and started to rattle again. I think my trunk-lid is tight enough, closes perfect and has no play at all. So until proven otherwise, my opinion is that the latch piece on the car is little to thin which is fixed with the electricians tape (has no known drawbacks). I will continue with the tape as it's so easy to apply and remove. My opinion is that it could eventually be a construction problem.

yeah.. The electricians plastic tape did the trick. I think I used 3 rounds of tape on it. But if of course depends on the tape used. Maybe the metal latch piece should have been thicker. Construction error? Maybe... But I will know that for sure after trying to adjust it. But it closes smooth and _perfect_. So maybe I will continue with this tape alá MacGyver instead of adjusting it. If adjusted, the bolts torque should be 25 Nm according to the service manual. You could see if this applies to you by putting a person in the trunk that push from the inside with his/her palms to see if it gets quiet when you drive. If it gets quiet it's probably this.. Or if you have a station wagon you could put something on the 2 rubber shims in the corners so the trunk-lid gets under press instead of having a person in the back.

A follow up on this if anyone is interested Problem gone ! More water than you think come from the snow on the boots. Now that I have better mats I am a little bit shocked. Even though I remove snow from my boots before entering the car, still there will be a lot of water on the plastic mat after a few days. And without these mats (i.e with the original rubber mats), most of it should have come in under the mat and stayed there until spring if not noted and taken care of. So the conclusion is that the weathertech mats really rocks http://www.weathertecheurope.com/en/subaru/2011/legacy/floorliner-digitalfit/ and the Subaru original rubber mats really sucks and should not even have been made. The purpose of making a rubber mat must be to resist water which Subaru obviously have missed.

I am quite sure I am more thorough than Subaru in this matter. Therefor I want to take a look at it first. I manage to remove the big plastic trim piece enough to add something between the plastic and the metal. I took a silicon hose (from my nitro model helicopter. 2.5mm inner diam and 5 mm outer ) and cut it lenghtways and put it on the plastic trim piece. 90% of the noise gone ! Still little noise, but much less... Then I put few rounds of tape (that electricians use) on this... And.. voilá! ALL noise gone !! This gap between the rear gate panel and the body surface can easily be adjusted (I have not adjusted it). But it feels more like it is to thin than wrongly adjusted. Any comments? Anyone that have seen this issue? Do you think an adjustment will do the trick. Or could it be to thin?

Now I have installed the weather tech "FloorLiner Digital fit" mats. Its fit is REALLY good. Perfect fit! And no snow or water from the boots will slip through this plastic cover mat. I really recommend these as the original Subaru rubber mats really sucks. Especially on the driver side as so much snow will come of the boots outside the rubber mat. If you have this problem. Dry the floor with a heater and/or a dehumidifier and apply these Weather Tech mats. You will not be disappointed ! /Peo

Hi I have a Subaru Legacy Station wagon (made dec 2010, model year 2011 and registered for traffic mars 2012) I have noticed that if the road is not that smooth/flat I hear rattling noise from the tailgate. It is soooo %€%£$®† annoying! It sounds like plastic against metal. I put myself in the back (trunk), my wife behind the steering wheel and took a trip in the neighborhood. When I pushed my palms against the platic on the inside of the tail gate (out) the noise was drastically reduced. A guess is that the big piece of plastic on the inside is not fastened correct or should have rubber between the plastic and the metal for dampening. Is this piece of plastic easily removed without the risk to destroying it? Anyone that have had this problem? What did you do about it? Feedback very much appreciated /Peo

Hi I will probably let the dealer take care of this. But now I have dried the floor with a heater plus a Woods DS28 dehumidifier in the car. So first I will install these that will come within a few days.... http://www.weathertecheurope.com/en/subaru/2011/legacy/floorliner-digitalfit/ If it will not be better, it's not snow on the boots, and I will let the dealer take care of it during the service that I have to do within a month. Tnx Peo

Today I did that. I went with a friend to a car wash. I did not remove the carpet (only the loose rubber carpet on top). I was inside the car pressing my hand against the floor (to press the thick insulating material together) to try to feel the floor getting wet. My friend used high pressure water on and around the wind shield for 10 minutes. Still dry... The 5-10 minutes of high pressure around the driver door. Still dry... The (with the car on a lift) high pressure water from below. Still dry... 5 min high pressure water in the wheel arch (correct name?). Still dry... ???????? Can it still be snow and wet boots? The Subaru rubber carpet sucks as it ends precisely where all snow and water come of the boots... Maybe I should buy a thin rubber carpet, cut it and place it with overlapping from above down over the Subaru carpet. Anyone that knows if there are longer rubber carpets with higher sides to buy. That fits exact in the Subaru on the driver side floor... Tnx Peo

No sun roof And i have not seen any water on the door step Peo

Hi I have seen a lot of posts regarding water on the floor. However... None of the answers applies to my problem. B t w, this is my first post at the forum... I have a Subaru Legacy 2012. I just (2 days ago) noticed very much water under the rubber carpet at the driver side. I first thought is was snow from the boots as it must take very long time for it to try as the floor is covered by a rubber carpet. And as you use the car heavily it feeds more snow/water to the floor. But that assumption seems to not be correct. I dried the car a little bit yesterday. Today I went to the car-wash for a manual wash. I was quite hard to the car using high pressure under and in the wheel-wells. Afterwards it was very much water on the driver side (front) again. The passenger side and the back seat was completely dry under the rubber carpets. Only the driver front side is wet. Where does it come in ???????? I have removed the wiper arms and the big piece of plastic (is it called "cowl"?). As far as I can see there is no dirt or so. There are no drain hoses on the Legacy as the water goes right out on both sides behind the inner fender and comes out under the car just between the wheel-well and the rocker panel. It seems a small bucket of water on the wind shield comes out where it should... The water is clear and seems to come from the outside, p r o b a b l y from the wind shield drain. But I am not sure. Behind the inner plastic fender (driver side where the problem is) there is a rubber gasket and a wire to the hood opener and a hard plastic seal of some sort which I do not know if it leads into the car or into the frame (for corrosion protection maybe). How many holes are there for potential water in my case? Could it be the door opening after all? Any clues would be very much appreciated Tnx in advance /Peo