tdodge41
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Posts posted by tdodge41
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Have been driving my weber carb'd GL-10 for a few months now and it has been running pretty good, although the weather has been pretty terrible and I have had to drive through some rain. Anyway, recently about a month ago all the power windows stopped working, which I thought was weird. Then about a week ago I go out and its dead. Totally dead. I charge it up and drive again and its good, come out and again its dead. And this time I can't get it to turn back over again. Appears its getting fuel. Fuel filters seem fine, and just swapped alternators.
Is this a ground problem somewhere? Where would I even start?
As always the community input is much appreciated.
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carbs unlimited sell the manual choke kit. they have given me great service so i highly recomend them
Thanks for the heads up on this!
Thanks for this link collection. The last link there I contacted the seller and he said it wouldnt work for a DGV carb, so I dismissed that idea. The top two look promising, just wish I knew where they connected on the weber.
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You might consider going with an electric choke ... no cable to run to interior and no need to fab a mount in engine bay.
I didnt know if a DGV carb could be converted to electric. I would certainly be interested in it, just didnt know if it was possible.
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So now I am wondering, does anyone have a suggestion for where to buy a manual choke kit for a dgv Weber carb. The ones on eBay I am told are for the electric choke carbs.
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Manual choke has to be separate. It's a pull cable that goes into the drivers area. You need full choke to start usually, then back of once fired, then open once running well warmed up.
Thanks DaveT, I see where there are different circles where a choke cable could run, so I dont think hooking into the drivers side would be the issue. I am wondering how the cable mounts to the carb or around the carb to run the cable to the choke plate? Does a mounting bracket come with a kit you would buy, or do I need to fashion a bracket?
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hey, you solved your own problem without knowing it lol. the choke is used to help warm up a car, it remainx mostly closed so it can maintain idle. after it is warm, it MUST be open. accelerating will slightly open the choke, but not open it all the way. to maintain speed it must be fully open. think of a lawnmower, close choke to start, fully open slowly. same with the carb on your car. get a choke hooked up.
Thanks 87subbomber, the next step is, does anyone have any experience in hooking up a manual choke on a weber? Looks like most out there are electric choke. Included are pictures of my current throttle set up. Forgive the crappy return spring hook up. Does the throttle somehow engage the choke at all, or should they be separate?
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I am the current owner of the EA81 1983 GL-10 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155248-83-gl10-rupert/page-4?hl=rupert
I just cant get the thing to idle right and to drive down the road right. I switched to a weber and it was used, so I got a rebuild kit and redid the gaskets and the rubber washers. As I go down the road when I am accelerating it runs fine, but when I attempt to maintain speed in any gear it begins jerking pretty hard. I imagine this is some kind of issue of getting too much fuel or too much air, but I cant figure out how that would be. I checked the jets when I took the weber apart and this is what i'm running:
Primary Main 140
Secondary Main 135
Primary Air 165
Secondary Air 160
Primary Idle 50
Secondary Idle 55
My next concern is that my throttle isnt hooked up right. This is a weber DGV 32/36 with a manual choke, which at the moment is not hooked up. I figured the choke would effect me while starting up, but didnt think it would effect going down the road. Could this be the issue? I have a throttle kit coming soon in the mail.
Any other suggestions, I am wide open to them all.
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I feel like I need to resurrect this thread and do some continuing.
I bought Rupert about a year ago, and have done a little bit here and there with the car. The biggest thing is getting the trans leak fixed and getting the weber carb on there and tuned. Weber is on, tuning will happen after the rain and before the snow. I will do my best to get some current pictures of the car up pretty soon and soak in all the weber goodness.
Unfortunately I had to neglect my brat most of the summer, which is a bit sad.
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I have heard two different things on this. One is that you have to pull the trans and split the case to do seals, the other says it's a pretty simple job where you just need to pull the axle.
What do we figure here? Also, any tips on doing those seals would be awesome! Thanks!
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drain the tank before you replace any fuel filters.
Thanks, I will make sure and do that. Although slightly concerned about what to do with the bad fuel when I empty it. I have recycled oil before at auto parts stores, but I know those spots can be iffy about recycling other fluids.
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Last year I bought an lovely 1983 GL-10 that my buddy The Desert Fox aka Jimbo aka mechanical_misfit brought back from Denver.
Well, I let it sit for the winter with a full tank of gas. When I began driving it again it started off driving great. But as the last two weeks have gone on there is hesitation that is getting worse and worse, as well as not being able to idle anymore, and pumping the hell out of the gas pedal to get it to start up at all.
I put a can of seafoam in it and drove about 20 miles hoping it would help the problem, and it did a small amount. The car accelerates great with the pedal all the way to the floor, but still doesn't want to idle and has lots of hesitation other places.
I am planning on doing a Weber swap (need info on this BTW, everything on the forum I am finding has these dead links), but before then, should I start replacing fuel filters and such. There is also an electrical noise coming from the primary fuel filter area at the rear of the car, and some electrical crackling when I turn the key just short of on at the distributor.
I am planning on going through rock auto to grab some new fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor and new plugs just as general I-bought-this-car-and-want-to-make-sure-this-is-done.
So mostly here wondering why the hesitation would have gotten so bad (and how to solve it) as well as wondering if folks have advice for doing the weber swap.
Thanks, I also plan on starting (and continuing) a build thread as soon as I get a moment.
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So I finally came across a new gas tank for my 1985 Brat that lives with me here in Michigan. What I am wondering is... what kind of treatment should I give this tank so it will never (hypothetically) rust through again, at least in my life time? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I want to make sure its nice and protected, even though I dont drive the car in the wintertime.
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With the pin removed,appyiing power will have no effect.
Alright I will be doing this as soon as I get home and see if this can help my lack-of-idle issue.
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12v pulls the pin out of the idle circuit.
No power, no idle.
Dan
So when I was unscrewing the valve the wire broke off right at the base of the valve. I have been having idling problems for a few months now, so I am sure this is the issue. Do you think idle could increase if I am able to reconnect power to the valve and totally unpack it?
And thanks for all your help Dan, I am hoping this will help me avoid a full carb rebuild.
-Travis
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You can gut it and drive the car.
Take the pin and spring out and put it back on. Been driving like that for a while without issue.
Dan
This is great news, does it even work if the valve is not connected? I broke the wire trying to pull it off.
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Also I was wondering if you can drive without a working anti-dieseling valve on the car? I haven't attempted to drive it yet, but the spring on it seemed pretty blown out anyway.
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Hey all, so like most people said, when I went to pull the anti dieseling valve off to remove my carb, the wire broke, right at the base of the valve. I know there is a kind of plastic cap there, is it possible to cut that black plastic away to get to the wire to fix it again, or am I looking at having to get a new valve with new wire?
This is for my 85 Brat. Was hoping to rebuild the hitachi, instead of getting a new one and running into the same problems.
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Thanks for all the info. Any chance you know what size screw to get and how many of em might be needed? If it's cheap enough I might as well do it just incase. I plan on getting the autozone kit.
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That's a bummer about the rivets. Does that mean you need a rivet press or something to do the carb work?
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My mistake. It's a GP Sorenson that I get at Autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1984-Subaru-GL/Carburetor-Kit/_/N-ikfqjZ8vd1z
The kit that is pictured on the Autozone website shows rivets instead of self-tapping screws, but I have always received the self-tappers. The Beck Arnley at Rockauto is a good kit as well. It shows rivets, but you might get self-tappers. The rivets will work and you can always get your own screws, so it's no big deal either way...more of a convenience really. Both kits are good. I am going to order a kit tonight, so I will report back what I get in the box.
Thanks a lot ferox! Sounds great, getting the kit is going to be the first half of the battle. Then I actually have to venture down the road to rebuilding...
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I get the Beck Arnley rebuild kits at Autozone because they come with self-tapping screws to replace the rivets in the choke housing. It's a good kit in general too. You might want to order a kit for an '84, or they could mistakenly give you a rebuild kit for an '85 ea82 Hitachi.
ferox: Wondering if this kit on rockauto is the same one you are talking about. I did a search on autozone but didnt see a BA kit. Only found one on rockauto.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3731517&cc=1267725
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So after replacing the fuel filters it still wont idle. I am wondering: what do people think is the best rebuild kit out there for a hitachi carb in an 85 brat? This is going to be my first rebuild, and after taking off the air cleaner housing, I know there is a problem with the choke as well.
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It really sounds like the best bet is going to be taking the trans out, ordering the parts, and fitting them all on before it gets put back. By checking and making sure everything fits on the trans before it goes back in. Short of that, I dont know if there is a way out there. Just go over and over it again and again with parts managers or something.
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So after measuring my old clutch disc the diameter is 8 7/8ths and the spline number is 21. So now we know this is exactly what we are looking for. Sounds like advance has the right size clutch disc. Hopefully.
1983 GL-10 Slow Battery Drain
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Additional information, I can't seem to get it to turn over now, no matter how much I am pumping the pedal. It just doesn't want to get going.